10-20-2015, 07:04 AM | #9577 | |
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Thank you for the quick response! 1) I got nothin' on how I got this to happen. Oh well. It hasn't happened since so I must have corrected it, although I'm not a fan of not knowing how I fixed something. I'll be double checking the ESC system connections. 2) Where would I find the steps to reactivate the gear indicator? Is that perhaps in a post by steve99? He seems to be a wellspring of knowledge in that regard. 3) So I didn't flash my PROcede controller at all. I soldered up the wire harness as you show in your video, with the exception of connecting the black signal wire to the PROcede connector that shipped with the ESC . 4) I am planning on connecting up my PROcede to my PC (yes a PC, not a laptop ), which should be an interesting exercise (i.e., moving my 20lb+ tower and a monitor over to my car ). This is why my last question was a semi-rant. Oh well. 5) Thanks for the confirmation. It would seem then that the raspiness associated with the 93 Oct ESC 2.0 tune is not harming the engine? I would generally expect not given that, from what I've read, Shiv has made the OTS tunes safe for this application. I'm only just starting to learn more about engine tuning so I am at a loss to otherwise convince myself of this by analyzing data logs and such. 6) Again And of course I forgot to ask it in my last post, but do you or anyone else experience the weird sort of scratchy electrical noise coming from under the manifold cover when turning the ignition to the ON mode? I forgot to mention that while my Odyssey battery was at about 12.4VDC, my stock battery was at 12.8VDC so I'm left wondering if 0.4VDC is causing something to act up, which based on my understanding of electronics, seems like that shouldn't necessarily be the case. I'm planning on flashing back to the 93 Oct ESC 2.0 tune and reinstalling the ESC with the FTS (I was back to stock over concern about the ESC not spinning up on startup and the OTS tune). I'll probably have to wait until this weekend to connect the PROcede up and see if it has a throttle map loaded into it. Again, thanks for the quick response. Along with Robftss's development ethos and dedication to creating something that is focused on affordability and performance, yours and others (e.g., fenton et al) enthusiasm and support to the community of users, users-in-waiting, and others ultimately motivated me to pull the trigger when my turn came up. vfrqqq Last edited by vfrqqq; 10-20-2015 at 08:19 AM. |
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10-20-2015, 09:33 AM | #9578 |
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I just turned on my ignition and listened under the hood and I too have a strange sound coming from around the manifold area. So I guess it's normal.
Your battery voltage however seems a little low. It should be around 13V. |
10-20-2015, 10:22 AM | #9579 | |
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2) here you go! http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6536 3) so the signal wire was never connected? 4) fuiuuuuuuu Can you get me a video of the start up? Curious what sound you are hearing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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10-20-2015, 10:35 AM | #9580 | |
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3) Sorry, I wasn't being clear . I connected the black signal wire from the PROcede controller, but I did so by cutting off the femail radio jack connector and directly soldering a longer wire that reached out to the ESC controller and soldered to the small red wire provided in the ESC kit. 4) Yeah, its no biggie. Just a modest inconvenience. I will take a video of the start up, but may not get a chance do so until this weekend. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to vfrqqq For This Useful Post: | Sojhinn (10-20-2015) |
10-20-2015, 11:00 AM | #9581 |
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So the 12.4VDC was after the battery had been sitting since May, I think, and before I took it out for the test drive and charged it up. Since then, it is steady at 12.7VDC, which is only 0.1VDC off of my 1.5 year-old stock battery.
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10-20-2015, 11:04 AM | #9582 | |
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Sojhinn he has a extra connection on his controller for signal from the procede. Rob now ships with the ability to connect either the WOT switch / OR the Procede control, They two connectors are different sizes so they cant be confused. |
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10-20-2015, 11:42 AM | #9583 | |
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Good to know Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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10-20-2015, 11:43 AM | #9584 | |
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6) I don't know how the newer ones are made, but my version has a small 12v "computer fan" on the motor controller. When I turn my car to on, but do not start it right away, and when it is cold the fan rattles. I don't hear it over the sound of the engine running, and when the car/engine compartment is warm and I turn it back on, the fan doesn't rattle. I don't know what type of fan it is: ball or sleeve bearing, or how long it will last. I may have to replace it at some point. anyway, if they still come with fans on them, that may be your noise.
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10-20-2015, 11:50 AM | #9585 | |
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Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk |
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10-20-2015, 12:01 PM | #9586 | |
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-- Whoops! I just saw that your image shows that, the WOT switch is just pulled back into the plastic wire loom. |
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10-20-2015, 12:03 PM | #9587 |
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and just for the hell of it. here is a video of the noise I get, it's dark because I tried to get the mic as close to the fan as i could. You can hear the frequency of the noise change a little as I touch the fan housing.
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10-20-2015, 05:48 PM | #9588 |
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You guys are talking about those wires. Im curious what the blue and yellow are connected to.
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10-21-2015, 09:17 AM | #9589 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to fenton For This Useful Post: | Sojhinn (10-21-2015) |
10-21-2015, 07:19 PM | #9590 | |
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I think the noise is the electric motor (like a servo) of the throttle body just in front of the manifold cover. My car does the same |
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