Turbo Problems please help

[whitefrs]

Originally Posted by mad_sb

I'm guessing boost leak.. and possibly borked clutch.

Borked clutch??
Please explain

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by whitefrs

Borked clutch??
Please explain

borked as in slave cylinder is going bad, air in the clutch line, etc.

my guess is that the first time you went into boost after your vacation from driving the car you blew a coupler off and now have a a nice boost / vacume leak.

As for your "failsafe" if the gauge is AEM then go to the website and down load the manual and read it.

Possible clutch issues are the least of your concern right now. If your in over your head as far as diagnosing the problem, stop driving the car and have it towed to a shop that can diagnose it for you. Your engine will thank you.

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by rusty959

My suggestion:

Stop driving the car for a few days. In those few days, spend all the time you can learning about turbo systems, how they work. All the while be going to your car with the hood popped to figure out where everything is. Know how everything works. Have slight ideas what might happen if any piece were to fail. Then while you are at it, learn what everything else in the engine bay does.

At the end of these few days, figure out how to make a boost leak checker. You can get the parts at lowes for like $30. Check if you have a boost leak. If there are some, fix them, see if the problem still happens, and then report back.

Here is an example of one:
..

I didn't watch the video to see if its actually good, so look around and decide the best way you want to do it. Regardless, no turbo car should be without one.

Agreed.

I'm stunned how many people roll around in heavily modified (yes, adding FI to car that was NA stock counts as heavily modified) cars with no clue how any of the modifications work or how to diagnose / monitor / troubleshoot issues.

[SmsAlSuwaidi]

Originally Posted by mad_sb

Agreed.

I'm stunned how many people roll around in heavily modified (yes, adding FI to car that was NA stock counts as heavily modified) cars with no clue how any of the modifications work or how to diagnose / monitor / troubleshoot issues.

The owner clearly stated that it's his first boosted car and is willing to learn and edcuate him self... So cut him some slack and go easy on him

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by SmsAlSuwaidi

The owner clearly stated that it's his first boosted car and is willing to learn and edcuate him self... So cut him some slack and go easy on him

I'm not going rough on him, I just stated my shock at the general number of people in his shoes. I can understand someone buying a factory turbo car and not knowing much about turbo's but to add an aftermarket turbo kit to car that was NA from the factory... I would think most people would want to understand all the details about every part that was added to the car.

Given the margin for error on a boosted 12.5:1 compression engine, his best bet is to let a shop diagnose the issue and learn about his platform at the same time.

@whitefrs , I apologize if my comments offended you, that was not my intention. I just don't want to see another lost motor if it is avoidable. You should be able to download the manual for your failsafe gauge and get started learning about what you've got while you wait on your buddy to help or have a shop check it out etc...

[xxscaxx]

completely agree @mad_sb....I was about to post basically the same exact thing you said as I was reading through this.

Nothing against the OP, we have all been there (some haven't even gotten there). Slow down, do some research, talk to your tuner, and take it step by step.

[Wonderbar]

Oh the joys of a boosted NA car.

My recommendation is let the shop know that their shit is weak, make them figure it out. Hold someone responsible or you'll eat it bad.

[Wonderbar]

Oh the joys of a boosted NA car.

My recommendation is let the shop know that their shit is weak, make them figure it out. Hold someone responsible or you'll eat it bad.

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Did John tell you boos cut was set to 7, or that the WG spring was set to 7?

Like I initially thought, it seems you are hitting boost cut because that event where the car is building boost and around 4K RPM's it just STOPS and RPM's die down to idle level is exactly what happened to me on overboost.

BUT, you should check all couplers and connections because such a high AFR (8) does seem like you might have a boost leak after MAF.

The reason I don't suspect he is hitting the boost limit is the rich afr.. these ecu's use fuel cut and throttle closure rev limiter. Unless ecutek recoded that (which is possible), fuel would be shut off on hitting the boost limiter... it should not go full rich like he is describing.


@whitefrs, i have attached the aem failsafe gauge manual here. I'm doubting it was installed in failsafe mode as you would need an electronic boost controller for it to function that way and then it would only drop you to spring pressure.

[whitefrs]

Originally Posted by mad_sb

The reason I don't suspect he is hitting the boost limit is the rich afr.. these ecu's use fuel cut and throttle closure rev limiter. Unless ecutek recoded that (which is possible), fuel would be shut off on hitting the boost limiter... it should not go full rich like he is describing.


@whitefrs, i have attached the aem failsafe gauge manual here. I'm doubting it was installed in failsafe mode as you would need an electronic boost controller for it to function that way and then it would only drop you to spring pressure.

So your saying that fixing the boost leak and doing some datalogging will fix this

[whitefrs]

I wish there was another turbo frs in long island to help me lol

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by mad_sb

The reason I don't suspect he is hitting the boost limit is the rich afr.. these ecu's use fuel cut and throttle closure rev limiter. Unless ecutek recoded that (which is possible), fuel would be shut off on hitting the boost limiter... it should not go full rich like he is describing.

I agree on that. I have had the boost cut happen. The instant it hits boost cut it goes Lean. But, the rich AFR was during driving, not when it hit boost cut (IF I understood the issue correctly).

[Foobar]

Originally Posted by whitefrs

I wish there was another turbo frs in long island to help me lol

You check with the No Limit Motorsport guys? They were in the process of putting a turbo in their BRZ. I hope to have FI in my car within the next couple of weeks, but unfortunately I went SC, sorry

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by whitefrs

So your saying that fixing the boost leak and doing some datalogging will fix this

you can modulate boost with your right foot. Even if the spring is at 7psi and you actually boost 8psi at WOT you can get say 3psi at part throttle.

If I were in your shoes,
1. I would check all of the charge pipe couplers, (not just visually)
2. pull the data logs from the gauge and see what boost you are hitting and what the afr was
3. setup the gauge so that it reads vacum/boost on the digital (cetner) and AFR on the ring
4. connect data logger, start engine, watch the fuel trims at idle.. if they are way positive then you still have a leak and it is bad enough to be a vacume leak not just a boost leak

If you hvae done the above and all seems well, (fuel trims look ok like +/- 5% at idle), drive the car easily and monitor ARF and boost. Slowly roll into light boost (1 or 2 psi) see where the AFR is, reapeat until you find the point where things are not good.

If it struggles to make boost and starts going very rich (in the 10's) before the boost gauge shows positive pressure then you have a big boot leak. If everything looks great right up until a specific boost level then it probably is boost limiter. If the boost cut is at say 8psi then you should be running perfectly right up to 8psi.

I'm NOT suggesting you drive the car, I think it would be best for you to get some help checking everything over first.