shifting into 2nd

[mkiv808]

1-2 in more difficult on a lot of cars. I've sometimes found changing the trans fluid can help a bit with notchiness. I've had luck with Royal Purple.

Try to always rev match when downshifting.

[Ganthrithor]

Originally Posted by Suberman

Actually, I find the BRZ warms up quite quickly. You can tell by the climate control. The engine itself warms up more rapidly than the temperature gauge would indicate because the temp sender is downstream of the thermostat, as it is on most cars.

The transmission should begin shifting smoothly in cold conditions after just a few miles. Only the first couple of shifts are baulky. I expect the transmission will get much smoother with mileage, most do.

Kind of an unrelated question, but do you actually know how long it takes the oil to come up to temp vs the water jacket? I always wondered why cars don't have oil temp gauges anymore... it's really frustrating to never really know if your engine oil is warmed up yet after a cold start. I usually try to wait a few minutes after the water temp has come up to the normal operating range before I rev the engine over ~4k RPM.

[Drebin252]

Happens to my car too. But it gets better as it gets to operating temp. Also, I notice shifting is really loud as well.
Seems like nothing to worry about

[Suberman]

Originally Posted by Ganthrithor

Kind of an unrelated question, but do you actually know how long it takes the oil to come up to temp vs the water jacket? I always wondered why cars don't have oil temp gauges anymore... it's really frustrating to never really know if your engine oil is warmed up yet after a cold start. I usually try to wait a few minutes after the water temp has come up to the normal operating range before I rev the engine over ~4k RPM.

Based on the one car I owned with an oil temp gauge the oil takes at least twice as long to get up to temperature as the coolant. Longer in very cold weather. That's why it's important to use the 0W 20 all the time for street driving.

The reason you wait until operating temperature is reached before hitting full throttle has nothing t do with the oil nowadays. Fully synthetic oil protects fully even when stone cold. You are just waiting for the cylinder bores and pistons to heat up and create the best pressure seal possible. That happens surprisingly quickly and long before the thermostat opens.

[Suberman]

Originally Posted by ZeHeadBanger

Nope, never actually thought of that! Might try that!

I never use these anymore. Since synthetic oil became relatively cheap and abundant you only need block heaters in the far north, or Winnipeg.

My cars sit on the street and I have no issues starting them at minus 35C.

The pistons and cylinders heat up very quickly, regardless of what the coolant temperature gauge indicates.

The oil doesn't need to be hot to protect the engine.

[idanvan]

I've recently been experiencing this more often because of the cold weather. But after about 5-10 minutes its smooth sailing. Tranny just needs some time to warm up. Also, I found releasing the clutch and then engaging fully again usually helps ease it up.

[Kristian]

I have the same issue with my 2013 FR-S. I just took it to the dealer to have them check it out... Hopefully they can sort it out.

[shinbatsu]

If I don't let the car sit for about 1-2 minutes to warm up before driving, 1 -> 2 feels very notchy. After about 3-5 minutes of driving, 1 -> 2 is fine.

1500 miles on the odometer.

I've had two SE-R Spec V (FF 6MT) both 2002, and they both had issues with notchy shifts from 1 -> 2 when cold and not warmed up. I had Royal Purple Synchromesh in one, and Redline MTL/ML mix in the other.

I think it's the same for any other 6MT I've driven.