DocWalt's 2022 WRB BRZ

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by Petah78

I have seen a few people installing the SYMS baffle indicating that it will resolve the right hand turn oiling issues and it's widely used in the JDM racing series/track goers. However, i have not found much info online. Have you heard the same and is this the reason why you choose this specific baffle?

That is exactly why I chose this baffle.

I waffled between the Kazama baffle and this but I could get this instantly from a friend that bought it then sold their car... Made it kind of a no-brainer.

[Petah78]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

That is exactly why I chose this baffle.

I waffled between the Kazama baffle and this but I could get this instantly from a friend that bought it then sold their car... Made it kind of a no-brainer.

Thanks for the reply. Do you have any articles/readings that can support this? As i said, i looked it up but couldn't find much info on it.

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by Petah78

Thanks for the reply. Do you have any articles/readings that can support this? As i said, i looked it up but couldn't find much info on it.

I'll take a look, I remember seeing some article from Japan on a blog.

[DocWalt]

Philly event number 9 yesterday! I finished 3rd in PAX but coned away 7 tenths of a second or so. Amy also did great, finishing 3rd of 7 in STR!

The car was *money* and perfect out of the gate, I love the new diff. Made some minor setup tweaks after the last event and they were GREAT today. The diff has come alive, making the car easier to drive and way more confidence inspiring.

My fastest clean run:

My fastest dirty run:

Amy's fastest clean run:

Amy's fastest dirty run:

Originally Posted by DocWalt

I'll take a look, I remember seeing some article from Japan on a blog.

Had no luck finding it again, my google-fu is apparently not good, haha.

[DocWalt]

Finished up printing my hood vent design in Nylon 12 CF, came out great! I need to bond the three pieces together and cut a hole in my hood now, haha. Chief inspector, Shelby, approved.

[DocWalt]

Did my (probably) last event in STR yesterday, got oh so close to taking down Ken Roller (2023 D Street National Champion) for overall PAX. Five thousandths behind him with possibly the best autocross run I've ever driven. Maximum attack and FULL send.

[autoracer86]

Are you moving to another class and or car ?

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

Are you moving to another class and or car ?

Just moving to XA, adding the JDM STI wing first (tonight hopefully) and my hood vent.

Plan for next year is a splitter with tunnels (Racebred 3" splitter with Professional Awesome splitter tunnels), stiffer front springs (7k), aftermarket rear bar (Perrin 16mm), 17x10s with 255s (Konigs from Vision Speedworks)



Waiting on Harrop for a supercharger too...

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

Just moving to XA, adding the JDM STI wing first (tonight hopefully) and my hood vent.

Plan for next year is a splitter with tunnels (Racebred 3" splitter with Professional Awesome splitter tunnels), stiffer front springs (7k), aftermarket rear bar (Perrin 16mm), 17x10s with 255s (Konigs from Vision Speedworks)



Waiting on Harrop for a supercharger too...

Sounds like it will be a great setup. Will keep a close eye on your progress with the supercharger!!

[DocWalt]

Installed the STI wing this evening and I love it! Subaru's execution of aftermarket parts is exceptional, I wish every aftermarket parts manufacturer was nearly as good. Subaru provided vacuum molded drilling templates for the inside of the trunk, a huge paper template for the top of the trunk, then all of the reinforcement brackets to stiffen the trunk lid so it can handle the downforce safely, I'm really impressed!

[autoracer86]

Woah that is a cool wing !

[DocWalt]

I figured I'd dump this here and maybe it will be useful


Shaftworks USA Bilanx singles, 6k/9k springs. Karcepts FSB (big center section), camber bolts front and rear.
JDL UEL, off brand overpipe, JDL UQ front pipe, STI Performance muffler with stock midpipe
XeroLimit tune (we decided on only 7600 RPM rev limit, I don't want to be the first one pushing higher, hence the low top speed in 2nd vs an STX car)
Shaftworks USA tuned OS Giken
17x9 ET48 wheels with 13mm front spacer, 245/40R17 Yoko A052 (28/26 PSI on runway/transition heavy courses and 26/24 PSI if it's heavy on sweepers and I have more time to place the car)
Stock brakes with a Perrin master cylinder brace because I was bored (everyone saying you need pads/brakes/whatever is wrong, IMO. DS2500 pads are good but expensive)

Alignment is:
-4.9 front camber
0 front toe
-2.5 rear camber
3/16" total rear toe in (about 0.4 degrees of total toe-in)

Ride Heights:
13.0" hub to fender front
13.25" rear


The settings for the bar vary a good deal between sites because I'm between concrete and sealed asphalt a lot, generally 1/2 up to 3/4 on the front bar. With higher grip concrete I also tend to run a bit more front shock.




I struggled a lot initially going between different sites with finding shock settings and bar settings. I don't know how many sites folks travel to but for me I travel between concrete and sealed asphalt locally (very different grip levels) and it was complicated. I ended up going up a good deal higher than Jon recommended on the rear shocks, he recommended -20 and I'm at -15 now, and as I added rear rebound the car got more stable and I needed less front rebound to stabilize the car.


Adding front rebound on struts is tricky, the adjuster is VERY powerful on the Bilanx and can easily steal front grip if you go too high. Adding front rebound stabilizes the car, but it generally does so by stealing grip in my experience. Adding rear rebound brings the rear end of the car into phase with the front end and that makes it *less* loose which is very counterintuitive. The rear adjuster is still powerful and going too stiff just makes the car loose as soon as you turn the wheel, like up around -8 for me.

Rear rebound is a cruel mistress, too little rear rebound and the car isn't loose on entry but then just sort of snaps as you get down to the apex or even on exit. Too much and it's snappy the instant you turn the wheel. It's "easy" to tell if you have too little rear rebound if the car gets looser and looser through a slalom. Stiffen it a few clicks and if it stops trying to murder you, great, if it got worse, slow your hands down or go the other way on rebound (can never forget driver inputs). Lots of drivers, myself included, are afraid of the car being snappy on entry so we soften the rear rebound and unintentionally make the car's handling even more evil.



I swear most people's qualms with handling and snappy cars can be fixed with more rear rebound and if not, the steady state balance is too far out of whack.



I'll sum up where I'm at on settings, maybe it will be helpful, maybe not.


1/2 front bar on sealed asphalt, 3/3 on concrete.
-16 front shocks (spot on to Jon's recommendation to me)
-15 rear shocks (5 clicks stiffer than Jon's recommendation to me)


On concrete (Toledo) I went way stiffer to -4 front shock per Jon's recommendation and it helped a ton, adding grip works the car a lot harder and the struts are really sensitive to that it seems.

[DocWalt]

Over the winter I had designed a replica of the GR Cup hood vent and slowly worked on making it a reality (mostly sitting around not doing anything about it after moving, if I'm honest)



I finally got around to setting up my oldest 3D printer, an Ender 3 Pro, to handle Nylon 12 CF and printed the hood vent. I wasted a bunch of material testing various setups, so that was neat... Sadly you need to test with the material you're printing!

I glued the parts of the hood vent together on Friday and set up a template to mark up the hood for cutting.











Saturday started off with transferring the template location to the hood, carefully centering it and positioning it in the right spot to hit the support structure where Toyota has theirs.





Masking off and protecting the car for the cutting process. Tedious but much easier clean up. The car is still filthy, but no aluminum shavings everywhere.



Nothing to it but to do it, right? Took some guts to start the cutting, haha





Cutting the support structure chewed up the cutting disks quickly, the skin was easy though!



After many hours of messing around test fitting and cutting more material, the hood vent fits nearly perfectly! The rear corners are about a millimeter too proud of the surface so I'll tweak the design, but for now the hood vent fits well enough and with a bit of care nobody will ever know the difference.



Test fitted on Sunday after some clean up and painting the edges of the bare metal. This is before gluing the vent down, you can't even tell that it's not millimeter perfect.





Bonded the vent to the hood with outdoor rated silicone adhesive and prettied up the edges with the tape. Using junk fluid containers that AutoZone wouldn't take...






and done! Drove to work today. No more hood flutter on the highway at 80 mph and when I stop in traffic there's a pretty massive amount of heat pouring out of the hood vent. I still want to block the vent and test some before/after temps, plus I need to trim and reinstall the hood insulation.





Next up I need to design a rain tray/debris guard that clips onto the bottom of the vent so I can daily drive this in all weather and not be concerned since it's just a gaping hole now.

[villainous_frx]

Looks really sleek, nice work!