Another ACE headers issue

[devtec]

Some of you may think this is ghetto, but I had it done and it works perfectly to resolve interference with the subframe.

Cut a slot in a large washer, and slip it between engine mount and frame. This raises whole engine a few millimeters, creating clearance for the overpipe.

Takes 10 minutes and any muffler shop can do it.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by JIM THEO

Overpipe to subframe...at least, I have to check also the connection overpipe to frontpipe as the rubbing comes somewhere there, I did hammer the skid plate too!

Make sure the rest of your exhaust system is not introducing a stress onto your ace header, causing it to be torqued.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by mistople

Sorry to hijack, but I have a follow up question on the Ace header:

Has anyone found a better solution for the 3 bolts holding the 4-2 manifold to overpipe flange together? I've probably lost a half dozen of those nuts/bolts in under a year and no matter what I do, they seem to come undone under track conditions.

Grabbed an image from the install instructions for reference:

Safety wire can prevent backing out. Alternatively, you can just use a long bolt rather than the stud + nut.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by B T

I figure the welding fixture and jigs must've been moved around a bit and warped during production. Even on the stock motor mounts, the header was hitting the underbody panel, coming too close to the passenger side sway bar bushing(melted it several times) and the bolt holes at the engine don't line up properly. I always end up having to push apart the header flanges to get it over the head studs. Luckily it hasn't ruined the head stud threads.

Every header will touch the underbody on every car; the underbody panel must be hammered flat in a few places for clearance. This is by design to get the proper runner lengths and keep the bend radii as large as possible.

[devtec]

I think the overpipe contacting the subframe is the biggest issue. It clears by about 3-4mm, but makes contact on hard left turns when exiting with throttle.

Washer trick under engine mount solves this issue by raising the overpipe another few mms.


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[SuperTom]

So im in the middle of changing out my FLywheel, CLutch ect and have my head up behind the engine. Noticed the exhaust manifold stud is touching overpipe. Anyone else notice this? could be another source of rattle

[juanlien]

Originally Posted by SuperTom

I have just installed Perrin mounts with Ace headers. Havent driven yet as I still have car on jackstands for other projects. But I will say I didn't have to remove the headers to install on my car, just jacked up the motor from the oil pan. I did remove the bolt holding the front pipe to the trans mount. Stock ones right side came out the front, left side came out the rear. Im going to say fairly easy and can be done in your driveway



Plus 2lbs lighter off the front of the car!

great share

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by SuperTom

So im in the middle of changing out my FLywheel, CLutch ect and have my head up behind the engine. Noticed the exhaust manifold stud is touching overpipe. Anyone else notice this? could be another source of rattle

You can put a shim on the motor mount or maybe its just old and saggy, like my neighbors ahem*. Probably easier just to cut a little nub off that stud.

[B T]

I just pulled my engine, my A350 isn't anywhere near that close

[Yoshoobaroo]

Well at least they are consistent then /s

[SuperTom]

Originally Posted by solidONE

You can put a shim on the motor mount or maybe its just old and saggy, like my neighbors ahem*. Probably easier just to cut a little nub off that stud.

You missed the post above I have Perrin mounts. Yeah will just cut off that knub when I swap to stock headers for upcoming inspection. Just something for others to check since you cant really see it from looking from the front of the motor.

[mrjj]

Originally Posted by B T

I just pulled my engine, my A350 isn't anywhere near that close

Same here. I have ~10mm space between the header stud and the overpipe.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by SuperTom

You missed the post above I have Perrin mounts. Yeah will just cut off that knub when I swap to stock headers for upcoming inspection. Just something for others to check since you cant really see it from looking from the front of the motor.

I dont know how many things can cause the cylinder head to shift relative to your overpipe/frontpipe junction. Was it always like this? I cannot imagine the perrins being different dimensions as stock, shorter?

[SuperTom]

Originally Posted by solidONE

I dont know how many things can cause the cylinder head to shift relative to your overpipe/frontpipe junction. Was it always like this? I cannot imagine the perrins being different dimensions as stock, shorter?

The perrins should be the same. PLus the cylinder to header to overpipe should remain constant even if the height was slightly different. Front pipe was unattached as well. I really don't have any rattle its just something I noticed with the Tranny out of the way I was able to stick my head up behind the engine.