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#547 |
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I went ahead and snagged some pics of my wiring that I have, just so you guys have a good idea.
You can barely see the wire here. Its sitting just above floor level on the side. ![]() This is up under the dash, passenger side ![]() Coming out into the trunk ![]() Going through the firewall, left of battery ![]() I don't have it hooked up ATM because my stereo isn't in. (I pull it out at times for autocrosses and the like) ![]() Give me a bit and I'll try my paint skills at a wiring diagram, and explanation of how I'd wire it. |
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#548 | ||
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Ok so I made a diagram. This is most likely how I would start if I were to do this setup right now. Its crude, in paint, a little busy, etc, but it gets my point across. Any questions just ask. I don't have fuses in there, but they are definitely needed. Line thickness roughly correlates to size of actual wire needed. Obviously some things such as connection points on a node can be moved slightly with no effect. This is about the max current I'd suggest flowing before running a dedicated ground line from the front as well. Id potentially suggest going ahead and isolating it, as it is possible for weird things to happen.
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#549 |
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Yep, Thats pretty much what I had in mind. However, I believe, I can shuv 4x 21Ah Powersonic batteries in the stock battery area with a larger tray on my Miata. With a 3d printed battery cover, it should look clean. I will have to be creative with MinnKota charger location. I still hope we can find a more compact charger. I wonder if we can have someone custom build one ...for a reasonable price.
Also, I am dropping the idea of the capacitors for now. Any reasonably sized boostcap pack will hold very little energy .. So its better to keep things more compact. With the eCycle motor being kind of pricey ... I think I will go with the Leopard motor (5500W) will give me 38k rpm. Not making much progress with the compressor / wheel selection. I know Phantom is using Mitsubishi TD06 housing ... not sure which wheel .. Largest wheel available for that housing on 25G. |
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#550 | |
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This is what makes me think the SeaDoo supercharger compressor may work great. It's a much larger wheel which means slower speeds but more torque are required. I wish my parts/tooling would get here. I'm excited to start bench testing. Edit: I would suggest possibly using a Garrett T3/t4 compressor. In the Garrett style turbos the back plate to the compressor is separate from the center bearing hub. This would allow you to adapt it rather then having to machine a completely new backplate. Coupling the motor to the compressor wheel in a solid compact design has been the trickiest thing for me, but I have some new ideas on that if you're interested. I also have CAD models I've made of the TD06 and T3/T4 back plates if anyone is interested.
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#551 |
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would the larger compressor/wheel add latency? Shiv has tested the phantom tq250 and the tq300, and found the 250 to be much more responsive.
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#552 | |
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I think a big key to mitigating this is variable seed control of the motor, rather then the full throttle all or nothing system that the Phantom system uses. -Intelligent speed controllers that can sense and adapt to load conditions and do things like soft starts -Closed loop control to reach a target boost value rather then max boost possible -Starting partial boost at partial throttle (say 80%) and raising as throttle increases. The main reason I started this thread is because people were wanting to experiment with more advanced control and power features like this. I'm hoping that in terms of the motor/compressor hardware we can come up with a really solid easy to build design that people can then use to experiment with.
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#553 | |
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#554 | |
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#555 | |
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As long as boost iis limited so it doesn't exceed the range of the stock MAP sensor tuning isn't that complicated either. The ECU has the data it needs already. Tuning will mostly be to maximize performance. I'm using a trollng motor battery charger from MinnKota which so far seems to work perfectly for this application.
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#556 |
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You probably won't find just a T3/T4 housing and wheel. I had to get a complete Turbo off eBay. They can be found for as little as $100. I usually wouldn't say this but go cheep. The quality you'll get from going more expensive is mostly going to be in the bearing which is useless for our purposes. From what I understand unless you get into the really high end billet vs. cast wheels there isn't much difference in the housing/wheels.
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#557 |
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Thanks to a bout of insomnia I did a quick flow chart of my basic concept for closed loop control. This is very simple and all the inputs are 0-5V so it should be very easy to program on most microcontrollers. The output of course would be a simple PWM server signal.
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#558 |
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The last time I looked at programmable micro controllers (~12 years ago) you did everything with ladder diagrams, and they were not very cheap. I have no idea where things have gotten to in that time but if you are able to get OTS components, and just hook them up, that could save time and money on a custom motor controller, plus have the added features.
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#559 | |
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#560 | |
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I favor the PicAxe which can be had for a few dollars for the most basic versions. It's not as powerful as something like an Arduino, but for most projects I think an Arduino is overkill.
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