Wheel Directory: Enkei PF01 18x7.5 +38

[Calin]

Very nice! I'm looking forward to seeing some installed pics

[Sac-BRZ]

Did you get these put on?

[USMC -FRS]

Originally Posted by itsafrs

Just put the wheels on Monday.

Thanks. These were the wheels I was thinking of getting for my FRS raven. Now seeing yours I'm going to pull the trigger.

[lsr78]

Quick iPhone pic

[Sac-BRZ]

Looks great. I need to jump on these while Tirerack has them on special..

[Eau Rouge]

Originally Posted by rikdrt1

i was also thinking the same thing. i think 38do look better but the question is really how much does it change the handling characteristics.

everyone that drives the car either on the track or just up the mtns say performance will suffer and changes it big time. i love the way it drives today and would sacrifice looks over function....

confused too.
(but the wheels and tires look fantastic still ) - i thin in +45 it still looks fine.

It's just a couple of the various things that have an effect on handling characteristics but changing the offset changes the scrub radius of the tire/wheel assembly and the car's track widths front and rear. Going from the factory +48 to +45 is 3mm difference to the scrub radius, going to +38 is a change of 10mm. The changes to track with are double the offset change plus half the increase in rim width on each side. I called out these two because they are examples that can be calculated by using simple math. Getting into things like changes to suspension motion frequency, jacking effect as the wheels are turned, etcetera are much more involved.

Also, complexity of suspension setup is such that all adjustments are interrelated. You may be thinking that lowering a car just changes the ride height but that is far from reality. Depending on how your particular suspension is configured, you may also be changing track width, camber, caster, toe in/out, scrub radius, effective wheel rate...and the list goes on.

Despite all this, most people aren't skilled enough to notice those changes when they are subtle but the changes do exist and they crop up when you approach 10/10ths, the time it matters most.

If you're never going to push your car to it's limits, you may be able to ignore most of what I've just started to describe.

[lsr78]

just had some 5mm H&R Trak+ spacers installed on the rear.

pretty much perfect now for a dd

[lsr78]

and the front

[lsr78]

and a 3/4 view

[DarrenDriven]

Merged another topic with same wheels and same specs.

[Grimlock]

Originally Posted by Tainen

hmm. I'm thinking of getting some nt03+ms in hyper black, but right now they only have +38. (17") I am wondering if that offset is OK for this car. 7.5 wide wheel. Everyone else is going with +45 offset. I'm not sure if the 38s will be fine or not... on here they look fine though. I'm confused.

Originally Posted by dori.

If anything they'll look much better than +45.
I think people are only going with that because they don't want to stray too far from stock.

compared to stock 7.5" and +38 is going to push the rim out about 5/8".

Originally Posted by itsafrs

Here are a few more angles. I think the 38 looks much better than the 45 and still have plenty of room. They will look better when I get some coilovers.

According to my calculations, a 7.5" wide wheel at a +38mm offset will stick out the same amount as a 8" wide wheel at +45mm. The 7.5" wide wheel gives you 13mm more in clearance to the inside.

So if you look at these pictures a 17x8 +45 wheel will stick out just as far.

[dori.]

Originally Posted by Grimlock

According to my calculations, a 7.5" wide wheel at a +38mm offset will stick out the same amount as a 8" wide wheel at +45mm. The 7.5" wide wheel gives you 13mm more in clearance to the inside.

So if you look at these pictures a 17x8 +45 wheel will stick out just as far.

but nobody said anything about 17x8 +45?

was just comparing 7.5 +38 vs 7.5 +45 unless somebody confused something.

so yes, with the same width it will stick out more

[Eau Rouge]

I had done the measurements vertically between the top edge of the wheel opening and the outer edge of the OEM rims (all at stock ride height and on a level surface, of course). The front rims are about 15mm inset and the rears are about 25mm inset. If you change the width and offset by these amounts, your rim edges will be flush with the upper edges of the fender wells.

Note the 10mm difference between front and rear. Coincidentally, when you account for bothe left and right sides, that matches up to the 20mm difference in track width per the OEM specs. If you get the same size and offset wheels at all four corners and add 10mm spacers the the rear, you will get the same relationship vertically between the top of the fender openings and the outer edge of the rims. You will also end up with the same track width front and rear. There is another way to go about that with a staggered setup but having the same all around allows for tire rotation (for those who would prefer to be able to to that).

All you need is some back math and the ability to convert between SAE and metric to figure this stuff out, at least until you start playing with changes to ride height and camber. Then you better have been paying attention in geometry class...

[TRD_86]

This Enkei PF01 double 5 spoke bright silver is a really nice looking light racing wheel. But I don't know why so many popular pick for the other funny looking rpf01 wheel. I'm thinking a set of 17x8.5 /17x9 would also be an option.