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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ

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Old 04-18-2014, 01:28 PM   #43
m.wood0213
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Ive been running Mobil 1 ow20 and 0w30, by accident, but its all worked fine. However, idk what ill do come my next change b/c of all the rumors. Might try something different to see if there is anything there. Its just hard not to buy Mobil 1 b/c of price. Full Mobil 1 change ~$32 full change of Eneos ~$50 plus shipping.
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Old 04-18-2014, 01:34 PM   #44
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NAPA currently has their full synthetics on sale for $3.49 a quart. Oil is manufactured by Valvoline. No complaints.
Bought two cases and 4 filters yesterday. That's probably 2 years of oil changes for $115.
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Old 04-18-2014, 03:07 PM   #45
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In the 90s, I used M1 in all my cars. Mostly because it was a rumor, word of mouth and trend that it was the best stuff.

Not until very recently, after reading this thread, I hear it's bad.

Now, looking back, I remember whenever I checked my oil, I noticed my engines always "consumed" it...it would eat maybe around .5L in a month or 2's time (sometimes even a full 1L). I thought this was normal. But, I did notice it, and it only happened when I used M1. Whenever I used cheaper oil (cheap model penzoil, castrol, dealership oil changes, etc., etc.) it did not consume it. So, I guess it really isn't normal.

This M1 oil consumption happened in all engines that I owned and also helped change oil and maintained (friends and family).. sohc honda, b16, b18a and c, lsvtec, mr2 and also sr redtop. I also blew 1 engine, an sr redtop, with a rod through the block, due to oil starvation (though, I don't think it was due to the M1 oil ..it was due to a dented oil pan blocking the oil pick up, I believe).

I always thought M1 was one of the best oils ..I guess because "everyone" said so and thought so, and also because it was back in the 90s when I, and others, didn't know any better and useful internet forum information and UOA's were not commonly known yet.

It all makes sense now - M1 just loves to get eaten up (or somehow magically disappears) in any engine (not just subaru engines).

I will never use it again. I will stick with oem factory Subaru and/or Toyota oils. And, I will try Motul 300 on occasion and maybe Eneos Sustina too if I can find it off the shelf.


Anyone know where I can purchase Eneos Sustina off the shelf, in stock? ...either stores or dealerships in OC (preferably south OC).
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Old 04-18-2014, 03:44 PM   #46
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Looking through the forums over here...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

...M1 seems to get pretty good reviews. I've never had an issue with it in both cars and high rev'ing dirt bikes, but YMMV.
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Old 04-18-2014, 06:39 PM   #47
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What would you recommend in order of preference for tracking with a supercharger? Motul, Amsoil... Redline?
Stop thinking brand. Extra power = Extra Heat = Thinner oil. Every one of those manufacturers makes oil which would be unsuitable, and oil that would be well suited. You need to match viscosity to expected oil temperature. Best example of this is the 2013+ Mustang 5.0. "Track Pack" cars get 5w50, regular cars get 5w20. Per Ford, there are no internal differences between the engines, just different expected use (i.e. oil temps).

Do you have an oil cooler? If not, get one.

As a good place to start, Redline 0w30 or Amsoil ASL 5w30, or Motul 8100 X-Clean 5w30. You might even go one step thicker to Redline 5w30 or Amsoil 5w30 Euro or 5w40. There's little reason to use 300V unless you get a smoking deal on it, it's very similar to Redline but even more expensive.

I don't know exactly the availability or price in Canada, but Pennzoil Ultra 10w30 would also be a great choice and likely less expensive than the boutique oils. M1 0w40 or High Mileage 5w30 as well.
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Old 04-19-2014, 03:47 PM   #48
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Can't say what it does in the FA motor, but having done 10,000 oil changes in the past 12+ years working on subies, done countless oil analysis and tracked lots of customers oil consumption issues. We found that the M1 does not work well in the EJ motors. Clients generally consume more of it, then switch to a higher quality oil like Motul or Amsoil and the consumption dissipates. Also most of the "eco" oils out there tend to break down quicker under higher heat than the more robust non-eco ones. Such as the Motul X series v. the ECO series.

-mike
AZP, what is your assestment of the cause of engine failures? Do you recommend oil coolers? I believe it's a matter of how thin of an oil you can get away with. That is something that is perpetually "fluid," subject to change. The thin oils are getting better and better. I think it has to do with how much high-quality but expensive base stock can be blended into an oil, with price and profit taken into account.
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Old 04-19-2014, 08:47 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by normancw View Post
What would you recommend in order of preference for tracking with a supercharger? Motul, Amsoil... Redline?
With a supercharger and tracking I would recommend:

1- Thermostatically controlled external oil cooler.
2- Fresh oil before the track event, and shortly afterward replace it.

As for type, if you plan to run it for the track event only, 300V, if you are going to use it for street and track, then go with Amsoil European 5w40 or Motul 5w40.

In either case with a SC I would bring my change intervals down to 3000 mile mark.

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Old 04-19-2014, 08:51 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by viscositosis.rex View Post
AZP, what is your assestment of the cause of engine failures? Do you recommend oil coolers? I believe it's a matter of how thin of an oil you can get away with. That is something that is perpetually "fluid," subject to change. The thin oils are getting better and better. I think it has to do with how much high-quality but expensive base stock can be blended into an oil, with price and profit taken into account.
It's actually a mystery, even among the inner workings at SOA and among all the top shops I speak to often. Some say it has to do with the tune, some say it has to do with the #4 Ringlands being furthest from the fuel source, some say it has to do with the EJ25 blocks, some say it's the strength of the pistons themselves.

I think it is a combination of several of those all coming together. We've seen well maintained, adult driven cars that are essentially soccer mom vehicles have #4 piston ringland failures, so go figure!

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Old 04-20-2014, 10:56 PM   #51
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^ ^ ^

I saw blown engine after blown engine (EJ's not FA's) running Mobil 1 when working at a Scoob dealer for a few years. Won't let this stuff touch my car.

I only plan on running the Subaru 0w20. Its not expensive and works just fine. I see no reason to run something else unless its some custom built block that requires god knows what to maintain...

I've said it dozens of times but it's an HTHS and viscosity issue in the EJ engines, not a brand issue.

There are very few oils that will outperform M1 0W-40 in an EJ turbo and there is little difference in how different RC oils of most brands performs in an EJ turbo.

And I don't believe anyone has posted any data to show that Mobil1 0W-20 does not perform well in an FA engine.

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Old 04-20-2014, 11:15 PM   #52
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I've said it dozens of times but it's an HTHS and viscosity issue in the EJ engines, not a brand issue.

There are very few oils that will outperform M1 0W-40 in an EJ turbo and there is little difference in how different RC oils of most brands performs in an EJ turbo.

And I don't believe anyone has posted any data to show that Mobil1 0W-20 does not perform well in an FA engine.

-Dennis
This may be true but I don't know of anyone who's ever run 0-40 M1 in an EJ motor, they run the 5w30 or 5w40.

I also agree the FA/FB motors are a different beast so it may be a mute point even discussing it.

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Old 04-20-2014, 11:54 PM   #53
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This may be true but I don't know of anyone who's ever run 0-40 M1 in an EJ motor, they run the 5w30 or 5w40.



I also agree the FA/FB motors are a different beast so it may be a mute point even discussing it.



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I've run both the API SM and SN Mobil1 0W-40's and my UOA's were excellent. It's becoming the alternative to T6 since the ZDDP is nearly as high, it's a lighter 40 grade, it has a good HTHS, and has a very good detergent/dispersant package. I would never run the regular M1 5W-30, or most Resource Conserving oils, in an EJ turbo, but M1 5W-30 ESP (meets Euro specs) is proving to be a good choice as well.

The uoa thread on this forum shows any GF5/SN oil does well in the FA engine for most driving conditions.

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Old 04-21-2014, 12:08 AM   #54
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I've run both the API SM and SN Mobil1 0W-40's and my UOA's were excellent. It's becoming the alternative to T6 since the ZDDP is nearly as high, it's a lighter 40 grade, it has a good HTHS, and has a very good detergent/dispersant package. I would never run the regular M1 5W-30, or most Resource Conserving oils, in an EJ turbo, but M1 5W-30 ESP (meets Euro specs) is proving to be a good choice as well.

The uoa thread on this forum shows any GF5/SN oil does well in the FA engine for most driving conditions.

-Dennis


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Yeah, we've found the Motul X-Clean 5w30 and 5w40 to be great especially at the price we are able to sell it to our customers at.

I may go to the X-cess 0w30 Motul on my first oil change on the BRZ and will be doing UOAs throughout it's life.

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Old 04-28-2014, 04:26 PM   #55
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Almost all 0w-x oils will outperform their 5 or 10 w brethren (at least from the same mmanufacturer) due to the better base stocks needed to reach a 0w rating.
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:46 AM   #56
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Almost all 0w-x oils will outperform their 5 or 10 w brethren (at least from the same mmanufacturer) due to the better base stocks needed to reach a 0w rating.
Outperform them at what? Cold cranking and cold pumpability? Of course they do, that's what having a lower 'W' number means. But for most users, being able to start the car at -35*C is not very important. There are many performance criteria which are much more important to most users in the lower 48. Saying that 0w oils will outperform their 5w and 10w counterparts is an oversimplification and could lead to sub-optimal oil selection in many cases. How about deposit formation? Shear stability? Temporary shear ratio? Volatility (NOACK)?

Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 of course uses better base stocks than Pennzoil Conventional 5w20, but it doesn't use better base stocks than Pennzoil Ultra 5w20. The Ultra 5w20 would be an excellent choice for a N/A 86 used in anger and the Ultra 10w30 (at least the old formula) should be a good starting point for a forced induction car. Both grades have boutique oil performance in the areas I mentioned above while costing half as much and being available at Walmart.

Another example: In the VW/Audi world Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5w30 causes fewer intake deposits and stands up to fuel dilution better in the direct-injection cars than M1 0w40. M1 ESP uses some of Mobil's best base stocks, search "mobil 1 new live" for a presentation indicating such and showing that the latest 0w40 formulation was developed from the ESP Formula.
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