Why metallic intakes do not work

[Kiske]

Originally Posted by IceFyre13th

Two reasons, the intake goes through the radiator support and could ground there, the throttle body touches the intake tube. I have no way to be sure the tube is not connected to ground elsewhere.

I have tried something else though tonight and reading your question, now that it is totally isolated I ran a wire to the tabs on the MAF sensor to the area I thought the bolt was grounding the intakes to...........ready for it, it wigged out again like before with the aluminum intakes. Removed my "artificial ground" just created and back to running right......

3M make a universal weatherstrip (#8650) that is self sticking (3m double sided tape pre-applied.) It's like $10 at any parts store. Should be able to apply it to the outside contact areas of the intake wherever it touches the radiator support or metal.

[FR-Sizzle]

Originally Posted by PERRIN_Jeff

Then there are the guys who want the most power and understand they need a tune, which is why we made our 3" intake system.

You forgot to tell us when the 3" intake system will be released.. Its been a while now and haven't heard from you guys in a while on these forums and your blog.\

Originally Posted by PERRIN

The 3" intake is not on our web site yet but is purchasable via phone. It is just a few $ more than our standard intake. Remember our 3" intake REQUIRES a tune, we can supply a ECUTEK tune.

Do you guys have any numbers for the 3" intake besides from your old intake shoot out thread? Would like to know how this performs vs the intake that requires no tune. Any pictures and dyno's?

[Kostamojen]

I was about to sell my TRD intake because I can't run an Intake in C-stock...

But after driving with the stock intake for a week or so, I decided to reinstall the TRD intake today. I just like it that much more especially for daily driving. It has a much better note, better throttle response, but not really much more power.

I've done a LOT of fiddling with intakes over the years with N/A Subaru's, and this is the best aftermarket intake (next to maybe the original Cobb 2.5RS intake) that I've seen for an N/A Subaru motor. The only thing IMO that it needs is a better designed snorkel to match the airbox to possibly gain more power at high speeds with actual induction.

[IceFyre13th]

Originally Posted by Kostamojen

I was about to sell my TRD intake because I can't run an Intake in C-stock...

But after driving with the stock intake for a week or so, I decided to reinstall the TRD intake today. I just like it that much more especially for daily driving. It has a much better note, better throttle response, but not really much more power.

I've done a LOT of fiddling with intakes over the years with N/A Subaru's, and this is the best aftermarket intake (next to maybe the original Cobb 2.5RS intake) that I've seen for an N/A Subaru motor. The only thing IMO that it needs is a better designed snorkel to match the airbox to possibly gain more power at high speeds with actual induction.

I am not running the snorkel. This weekend I plan on fixing the temporary seal I made to the radiator support / snorkel area (nothing more than thick foam right now) with something that should work better.

The foam seal now is 1.5" thick open cell packing out of the UniChip box, I just cut it to fit the area with a opening to match the snorkel hole. Then I just put it in-between the air box and radiator support. Works, but being open cell water will be an issue.

What I plan on doing is making a air guide out of ABS Plastic sheet and heat / vacuum forming it to shape over a MDF form. I will cut ot the opening and then use some closed cell weather strip to seal it to the air box with a bracket to mount it to the radiator support. I will post more on this air guide later as a DIY post.

TRD should of just extended the lip (where the snorkel fits to) out through the radiator support.....

[PERRIN]

Originally Posted by FR-Sizzle

You forgot to tell us when the 3" intake system will be released.. Its been a while now and haven't heard from you guys in a while on these forums and your blog.\



Do you guys have any numbers for the 3" intake besides from your old intake shoot out thread? Would like to know how this performs vs the intake that requires no tune. Any pictures and dyno's?

3" intake will be on the web site soon with lots of info and dyno graphs.

[Turdinator]

Originally Posted by IceFyre13th

I am not running the snorkel. This weekend I plan on fixing the temporary seal I made to the radiator support / snorkel area (nothing more than thick foam right now) with something that should work better.

The foam seal now is 1.5" thick open cell packing out of the UniChip box, I just cut it to fit the area with a opening to match the snorkel hole. Then I just put it in-between the air box and radiator support. Works, but being open cell water will be an issue.

What I plan on doing is making a air guide out of ABS Plastic sheet and heat / vacuum forming it to shape over a MDF form. I will cut ot the opening and then use some closed cell weather strip to seal it to the air box with a bracket to mount it to the radiator support. I will post more on this air guide later as a DIY post.

TRD should of just extended the lip (where the snorkel fits to) out through the radiator support.....

When you make the snorkle replacement can you post up som pics and post your impressions?

[IceFyre13th]

Originally Posted by Turdinator

When you make the snorkle replacement can you post up som pics and post your impressions?

Sure will........

[Nitro_FRS]

K&N intake.. the tube has an insulated mount inside the airbox.... had mine on for a week with no problems. Getting a full tune in a few weeks.

[NIKOLA]

Not adding anything to the thread other than I am using an Injen intake (metal) and I have ZERO issues with it. No errors of any kind.

[PERRIN_Jeff]

Originally Posted by FR-Sizzle

You forgot to tell us when the 3" intake system will be released.. Its been a while now and haven't heard from you guys in a while on these forums and your blog.\

Do you guys have any numbers for the 3" intake besides from your old intake shoot out thread? Would like to know how this performs vs the intake that requires no tune. Any pictures and dyno's?

We sure do! We have been swamped and way behind with some web stuff the last few months. We will have the dyno graphs up there very soon!

Here is what we last tested and tuned, creating Stage 2 and Stage 3 tunes. (it will be on the blog soon too).

-Retuned FR-S with 2.5" headerback system with cat, stock header, and Stock Intake. (Creating a Stage 2 tune)
-Retuned FR-S with 2.5" headerback system with cat, stock header PERRIN 2.75" Intake. (Creating proper MAF calibration)
-Retuned FR-S with 2.5" headerback system with cat, stock header, and PERRIN 3.0" Intake. (Creating proper MAF calibration)
This created our final Stage 2 Tune with all three intakes as an option.

Using Stage 2 Tune:
-Dynoed FR-S with 3.0" headerback system with cat, stock header, and Stock Intake.
-Dynoed FR-S with 3.0" headerback system with cat, stock header, and PERRIN 3.0" Intake and proper MAF calibration.
-Retuned FR-S with 3.0" headerback system with cat, stock header, and PERRIN 3.0" Intake.

From all this we created a "Stage 3" tune for all three intakes.

Most of the gains along the way are minor here and there, but are very good from start to finish. Comparing the gains over a 2.5" system, its completely worth going to 3.0" over the 2.5". Same could be said for the 3.0" Intake (if you have a way to tune for it).

Here are a couple of the graphs. First one is on a stock FR-S with stock tune. We replaced the stock air box with the 3.0" intake and ONLY change the MAF curve in the ECU.



Then this is a graph showing the Stage 2 tune (2.5" headerback) with a PERRIN 2.75" intake, then we swaped it for the 3.0" and change ONLY the MAF curve in the ECU.



We have others, but these are a good start!
With the last run of NA tuning we did we are pretty sure we hit the wall with gains. We even threw on our header we made (catless) and we could get a few HP here and there, but nothing crazy. I was really hoping to hit 200WHP, but we were not able to on our 92oct fuel.

[Cross]

Great write up.

I have to say trying to read what Sosick had to say made me actually believe he was So Sick he couldn't take the time to write out his replies completely... even though he made 4 or 5 of them in a row.

L33t Speak!

So here is a question for you then, what about the AirRaid? Its plastic/composite. Wouldn't that solve your requirement?

[IceFyre13th]

Probably, but the TRD is working out great so far.........been messing with the UniChip "tunes" and found that 92 Octane, less fuel, standard timing seems the best for MPG, 92 Octane, Standard fuel, advanced tuning, seems best for power.

AND NO MORE CEL!!!!

But this testing has been done on a badly calibrated "butt dyno".........LOL

I am still waiting on a few parts before I make the new "inlet".......so far the foam seal is holding up.