2017 TOYOTA 86 WON'T START

[anticubus]

Originally Posted by Toyota.

Terminals are snug brother. So odd I get power to the dash, but absolutely nowhere else.

But that's not true! Earlier on you mentioned the starter was clicking which means that you're getting power to the dash and the starter circuits which is better than only one or none of them.

Real quick, here's the wiring diagram: https://www.ft86club.com/files/BRZwiringi.pdf

If you're just getting clicks then there's clearly not enough juice going to the starter. I saw you were gonna check the starter from an earlier recommendation, that's the best place to start.

Next, Is there any wiring in there that looks off? I know you said stock, but if it's used it may have been returned to stock for sale. I'd start looking for some spare sub amp wires in the trunk, or splices on the harness. If someone did audio upgrades incorrectly, then left some things out of place after going back to stock it's not impossible that things shifted around. I'd also check on every fuse for both amperage and continuity.

Beyond that, it's possible something on the ignition circuit has gone awry, but again you've got clicks but not a turning engine. Best I can come up with for that is an immobilizer issue.

I guess maybe something could have frozen up in the block. If that's the problem we're waaaaay outside the ballpark, around the corner into the alley, and behind a dumpster for how unlikely it is.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by anticubus

But that's not true! Earlier on you mentioned the starter was clicking which means that you're getting power to the dash and the starter circuits which is better than only one or none of them.



Real quick, here's the wiring diagram: https://www.ft86club.com/files/BRZwiringi.pdf



If you're just getting clicks then there's clearly not enough juice going to the starter. I saw you were gonna check the starter from an earlier recommendation, that's the best place to start.



Next, Is there any wiring in there that looks off? I know you said stock, but if it's used it may have been returned to stock for sale. I'd start looking for some spare sub amp wires in the trunk, or splices on the harness. If someone did audio upgrades incorrectly, then left some things out of place after going back to stock it's not impossible that things shifted around. I'd also check on every fuse for both amperage and continuity.



Beyond that, it's possible something on the ignition circuit has gone awry, but again you've got clicks but not a turning engine. Best I can come up with for that is an immobilizer issue.



I guess maybe something could have frozen up in the block. If that's the problem we're waaaaay outside the ballpark, around the corner into the alley, and behind a dumpster for how unlikely it is.

If it's the immobiliser then it won't click

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[Turdinator]

Originally Posted by anticubus

But that's not true! Earlier on you mentioned the starter was clicking which means that you're getting power to the dash and the starter circuits which is better than only one or none of them.

Real quick, here's the wiring diagram: https://www.ft86club.com/files/BRZwiringi.pdf

If you're just getting clicks then there's clearly not enough juice going to the starter. I saw you were gonna check the starter from an earlier recommendation, that's the best place to start.

Next, Is there any wiring in there that looks off? I know you said stock, but if it's used it may have been returned to stock for sale. I'd start looking for some spare sub amp wires in the trunk, or splices on the harness. If someone did audio upgrades incorrectly, then left some things out of place after going back to stock it's not impossible that things shifted around. I'd also check on every fuse for both amperage and continuity.

Beyond that, it's possible something on the ignition circuit has gone awry, but again you've got clicks but not a turning engine. Best I can come up with for that is an immobilizer issue.

I guess maybe something could have frozen up in the block. If that's the problem we're waaaaay outside the ballpark, around the corner into the alley, and behind a dumpster for how unlikely it is.

Good points made here.

Another thing is, could you post some photos of the wiring around your battery and starter motor? Perhaps something will jump out to one of us as not quite right.

[Toyota.]

Originally Posted by anticubus

But that's not true! Earlier on you mentioned the starter was clicking which means that you're getting power to the dash and the starter circuits which is better than only one or none of them.

Real quick, here's the wiring diagram: https://www.ft86club.com/files/BRZwiringi.pdf

If you're just getting clicks then there's clearly not enough juice going to the starter. I saw you were gonna check the starter from an earlier recommendation, that's the best place to start.

Next, Is there any wiring in there that looks off? I know you said stock, but if it's used it may have been returned to stock for sale. I'd start looking for some spare sub amp wires in the trunk, or splices on the harness. If someone did audio upgrades incorrectly, then left some things out of place after going back to stock it's not impossible that things shifted around. I'd also check on every fuse for both amperage and continuity.

Beyond that, it's possible something on the ignition circuit has gone awry, but again you've got clicks but not a turning engine. Best I can come up with for that is an immobilizer issue.

I guess maybe something could have frozen up in the block. If that's the problem we're waaaaay outside the ballpark, around the corner into the alley, and behind a dumpster for how unlikely it is.

May have been mistaken with saying it clicks. I was attempting to start it this afternoon on my lunch break and there was absolutely no clicking sound. Also, there's no red light indication for it to be the immobiliser which I thought could possibly be the issue as well. Gonna check the ground and fuses. Dash displays a blinking green key symbol, and occassionally a yellow blinking key symbol. Swapping out the key fob battery this evening if I can manage to find a 1632 battery. Dash also displays blinking yellow triangular caution sign with an exclamation point. Referred to manual I believe that symbol is for the Master Warning Light so I'm still not entirely sure what that entails. Looked underneath the driver station and it appears the break is stiff and isn't depressing all the way, and that error illuminates on the dash as well.

[Turdinator]

Originally Posted by Toyota.

May have been mistaken with saying it clicks. I was attempting to start it this afternoon on my lunch break and there was absolutely no clicking sound. Also, there's no red light indication for it to be the immobiliser which I thought could possibly be the issue as well. Gonna check the ground and fuses. Dash displays a blinking green key symbol, and occassionally a yellow blinking key symbol. Swapping out the key fob battery this evening if I can manage to find a 1632 battery. Dash also displays blinking yellow triangular caution sign with an exclamation point. Referred to manual I believe that symbol is for the Master Warning Light so I'm still not entirely sure what that entails. Looked underneath the driver station and it appears the break is stiff and isn't depressing all the way, and that error illuminates on the dash as well.

The firm brake pedal is normal when a car isn't running as there is no vacuum assist. With the car off there should be only enough vacuum in reserve for only a few pumps of the brake pedal.

[anticubus]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

If it's the immobiliser then it won't click

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Normally, which is why it's down there with the frozen engine as a maaaaaybe something went awry, but probably not. We're in electrical gremlin land, it could be another off the wall thing like when I had to replace an alternator because it had a small short that sapped enough current to prevent a start and ruin the battery.

[Toyota.]

Originally Posted by Turdinator

The firm brake pedal is normal when a car isn't running as there is no vacuum assist. With the car off there should be only enough vacuum in reserve for only a few pumps of the brake pedal.

Makes sense.

[Toyota.]

Originally Posted by anticubus

Normally, which is why it's down there with the frozen engine as a maaaaaybe something went awry, but probably not. We're in electrical gremlin land, it could be another off the wall thing like when I had to replace an alternator because it had a small short that sapped enough current to prevent a start and ruin the battery.

I hate electrical gremlin land

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by Toyota.

I hate electrical gremlin land

I still believe it's unlikely to be the computer and is almost certainly a loose connection somewhere. Or a short

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[anticubus]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

I still believe it's unlikely to be the computer and is almost certainly a loose connection somewhere. Or a short

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I dunno, I'm leaning towards a bad fob battery at this point. @Toyota. mentioned this tidbit:

Dash displays a blinking green key symbol, and occassionally a yellow blinking key symbol.

Flashing Green means Ignition On, Flashing Yellow means the key couldn't be read by the ECU, Solid Green means the key was accepted and immobilizer disabled. So far a couple threads with similar symptoms are pretty much all dead fobs, and one bad steering lock solenoid.

[Toyota.]

Originally Posted by anticubus

I dunno, I'm leaning towards a bad fob battery at this point. @Toyota. mentioned this tidbit:


Flashing Green means Ignition On, Flashing Yellow means the key couldn't be read by the ECU, Solid Green means the key was accepted and immobilizer disabled. So far a couple threads with similar symptoms are pretty much all dead fobs, and one bad steering lock solenoid.

Gonna pick one up at Target tonight. If it's key fob though it's so odd my battery was drained, it still unlocks the car, and all other electrical components aren't working such as headlights.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by anticubus

I dunno, I'm leaning towards a bad fob battery at this point. @Toyota. mentioned this tidbit:


Flashing Green means Ignition On, Flashing Yellow means the key couldn't be read by the ECU, Solid Green means the key was accepted and immobilizer disabled. So far a couple threads with similar symptoms are pretty much all dead fobs, and one bad steering lock solenoid.

I have no experience with the stock push start system

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[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by anticubus

I dunno, I'm leaning towards a bad fob battery at this point. @Toyota. mentioned this tidbit:


Flashing Green means Ignition On, Flashing Yellow means the key couldn't be read by the ECU, Solid Green means the key was accepted and immobilizer disabled. So far a couple threads with similar symptoms are pretty much all dead fobs, and one bad steering lock solenoid.

The symptoms have changed so many times I am not sure what is what anymore. If it was clicking it isn't the fob. If it wasn't clicking it could be. Sometimes the lights came on . Sometimes they didn't.
The battery and connections supposedly are fine yet the symptoms all point to a battery or connection.
Could probably figure it out in about 5 minutes with hands on the car but all the changes in symptoms are confusing as hell.
At this point I say just take it to a shop or the dealer since it appears to still be under warranty.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

The symptoms have changed so many times I am not sure what is what anymore. If it was clicking it isn't the fob. If it wasn't clicking it could be. Sometimes the lights came on . Sometimes they didn't.
The battery and connections supposedly are fine yet the symptoms all point to a battery or connection.
Could probably figure it out in about 5 minutes with hands on the car but all the changes in symptoms are confusing as hell.
At this point I say just take it to a shop or the dealer since it appears to still be under warranty.

I agree with Tcoat

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