Motor won't turn over

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by billwot

No, with an auto tranny, the engine isn't really connected to the drive train under those conditions. Moving it while in D or R dose not apply any force to the engine.

Thanks. I didn't think so but I am not really up on my AT info for these cars.

[Lantana frs]

Torque converter wont couple at 5 rpm. Wrench on crank (breaker bar) is best. In my experience resistance before full cam cycle is often piston to valve contact.

[Urmyson]

Well something locked up in the left front cylinder. The spark plug didn't loosen up after 2 turns. I'm taking it to my buddy and were going to pull the head to see what happened. Has anyone heard of one one of these motors dropping a the value? Can't really think of what else it could be.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Urmyson

Well something locked up in the left front cylinder. The spark plug didn't loosen up after 2 turns. I'm taking it to my buddy and were going to pull the head to see what happened. Has anyone heard of one one of these motors dropping a the value? Can't really think of what else it could be.

Thanks for the update.

I'm puzzled.

How did you determine something is locked up in the left front cylinder .. ??

Also, I reckon if you turned a spark plug for two turns and it hasn't started to back out, it has either stripped the threads in the block or it's twisted off ...... not good either way.

Clarification please.


humfrz

[Urmyson]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Thanks for the update.

I'm puzzled.

How did you determine something is locked up in the left front cylinder .. ??

Also, I reckon if you turned a spark plug for two turns and it hasn't started to back out, it has either stripped the threads in the block or it's twisted off ...... not good either way.

Clarification please.


humfrz

So we would turn the harmonic balancer back a turn and then go clockwise and you can hear a ding/clunk where it locks up. We did that a few times and listened and were pretty sure it was coming from the left front. Then were going to pull the plug and use one of those wire camera's to take a look and ran into the plug issue.

My buddy who is helping me out was afraid we were going to strip the threads to the point of no return. So we stopped and are going pull the head to see how bad it is. At this point I'm assuming the worst and started pricing motors. But since whatever locked it up happened at idle I'm hoping its something not so expensive. It will be a few weeks before I'm able to get the head off, but I'll update the forum when I find out what happened.

Thanks for your help guys.

[humfrz]

Well, Urmyson, that's not sounding good.....

Yes, please keep us posted.

Can anyone think of anything it might be ....... except a broken engine part ......??


humfrz

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Urmyson

Well something locked up in the left front cylinder. The spark plug didn't loosen up after 2 turns. I'm taking it to my buddy and were going to pull the head to see what happened. Has anyone heard of one one of these motors dropping a the value? Can't really think of what else it could be.

You didn't happen to go through a big puddle or body of water did you?

Originally Posted by humfrz

Well, Urmyson, that's not sounding good.....

Yes, please keep us posted.

Can anyone think of anything it might be ....... except a broken engine part ......??


humfrz

I am going with a thrown rod. Have suspected that since about post 6.

[BRZnut]

keep us updated. How much boost were you running?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Urmyson

My buddy who is helping me out was afraid we were going to strip the threads to the point of no return. So we stopped and are going pull the head to see how bad it is. At this point I'm assuming the worst and started pricing motors. But since whatever locked it up happened at idle I'm hoping its something not so expensive. It will be a few weeks before I'm able to get the head off, but I'll update the forum when I find out what happened.

Thanks for your help guys.

Seriously, don't bother slow walking it. Engine's gone. Yank it out of there if you plan on fixing it yourself, or stick it on a flatbed & send it to a pro.

Bummer.

[Urmyson]

I picked up a motor with 8k on it yesterday. It should be going in within the next week or so. Do anyone have a list of items that I should replace while I have the motor out? I was going to get a new serpentine belt and maybe motor mounts. There is 85k on the car, I'm not sure how often the bushing need to be replaced.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Urmyson

I picked up a motor with 8k on it yesterday. It should be going in within the next week or so. Do anyone have a list of items that I should replace while I have the motor out? I was going to get a new serpentine belt and maybe motor mounts. There is 85k on the car, I'm not sure how often the bushing need to be replaced.

At 8k that thing's barely broken in. If the donor car was involved in a frontal accident I would check the crank for axial play. (thrust bearings and such)

****Did the new engine come with the DI computer? The four channels on the DI computer are matched to the measured flow rates of the direct injectors. The injectors are lumped into (I think four) categories based on how they test out.****

If it did not come with the computer then there's more you can do to verify but I don't have any practical experience. I learned this just from my daily forum browsing.

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edit: I think the above is bullshit. After coming home and reading the relevant sections of the service manual, I see nothing to indicate that the injector driver unit (dumb device - not a computer) is special from one unit to the next.
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[Urmyson]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

At 8k that thing's barely broken in. If the donor car was involved in a frontal accident I would check the crank for axial play. (thrust bearings and such)

Did the new engine come with the DI computer? The four channels on the DI computer are matched to the measured flow rates of the direct injectors. The injectors are lumped into (I think four) categories based on how they test out.

If it did not come with the computer then there's more you can do to verify but I don't have any practical experience. I learned this just from my daily forum browsing.

It's just the engine no electronics. It was hit on the front drivers side and the hood bent the fuel rail a little bit, so I'll be put mine fuel rail on that side. I don't think anything hit the front of the motor though. All the connectors on the front of the motor are intact.

I just want to make sure I replace anything that would be super easy while the motor is out.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Urmyson

It's just the engine no electronics. It was hit on the front drivers side and the hood bent the fuel rail a little bit, so I'll be put mine fuel rail on that side. I don't think anything hit the front of the motor though. All the connectors on the front of the motor are intact.

I just want to make sure I replace anything that would be super easy while the motor is out.

See my edit above. I think you're fine with direct injectors.

Bent pulleys?
Chafed or cut wires?
Water in the oil?
Oil in the water?
Shit dropped into the intake manifold or ports?

Like I said before, 8000 miles is pretty much new. I'd just replace anything obviously broken and go for it.

[Urmyson]

Motor came out today. It was a broken intake valve that locked up the motor. The new motor should be going in tomorrow or Sunday. Fingers crossed everything works out.