Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[shif7i7down]

Originally Posted by Target70

I'm not really a drag guy, but curious if you think you can hit 13 flat. I know a lot of it comes down to the launch, and driver skill. But I think fenton? was estimating ~13.8. Add rubber, diff, e85, and full exhaust, I wonder what that would get you to.. keep us posted. It may be vain, but I would like to stay even with a 2014 mustang gt *convertible(13.2 - 1/4) if i need too

Well, i figured. Stock is 200hp and i make 165whp So that's roughly +15% lost. If e85 esc tune makes 220whp we can safely assume that's 250crank hp at the minimum, with the 488 FD that's another 15% increase on that 250hp which would yelled roughly 287whp at the minimum. With weight/pwr of 2786/287 ,assuming that the esc does not give a fat trq curve like it does but instead just lifts the curve up your looking at 13.4et. BUT because the esc gives a high torq output at 3k to 5k you get a hole shot that's will further bring down your et. Of course these are all estimations but they are modest estimations.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by AN

@Robftss ... Great job ... btw. I have a couple of thoughts that I would like for you to comment on. Have you looked into adding a capacitor (or 2caps) in parallel to the dump packs. High power density (not energy) caps are pretty cheap now .. 30 Farad cap for $75. Link



If you wire two of these parallel to each 18Ah dump battery ... they will be very quick in providing all the current the motor needs at peak (even TQ-300). I understand these big caps represent only about 16% of the energy stored in the 36Ah dump batteries (20.5 KJ vs 125 KJ ) but these will charge up faster , keep up with peak demand much better, not to mention will protect the batteries at the time of peak current draw . I think these will complement the Pb-Acid batteries perfectly in the power demand situation we have here.



Looking forward to your thoughts, Thanks.

I like the idea. I'm also curious what rob says, but two things stick out for me.

What happens to the capacitors when they are exposed to the elements and how much heat can they handle?

[AN]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

I like the idea. I'm also curious what rob says, but two things stick out for me.

What happens to the capacitors when they are exposed to the elements and how much heat can they handle?

They are primarily made for Car audio systems, and properly tested and manufactured for vehicle installs. I believe it would be best if they are in an enclosed box if under the hood. They do typically come well enclosed. I guess close the the battery should be fine.

[Luckrider]

Originally Posted by shif7i7down

Well, i figured. Stock is 200hp and i make 165whp So that's roughly +15% lost. If e85 esc tune makes 220whp we can safely assume that's 250crank hp at the minimum, with the 488 FD that's another 15% increase on that 250hp which would yelled roughly 287whp at the minimum. With weight/pwr of 2786/287 ,assuming that the esc does not give a fat trq curve like it does but instead just lifts the curve up your looking at 13.4et. BUT because the esc gives a high torq output at 3k to 5k you get a hole shot that's will further bring down your et. Of course these are all estimations but they are modest estimations.

FD really does not change the whp, but it does affect where the powerband is at different speeds and makes the car effective peppier.

[AN]

Originally Posted by Luckrider

FD really does not change the whp, but it does affect where the powerband is at different speeds and makes the car effective peppier.

MX-5 owner here guys, curious what FD488 is .. is it a rear-diff with a different ration ... ? whats the difference ? any links . Thanks.

[shif7i7down]

Originally Posted by AN

MX-5 owner here guys, curious what FD488 is .. is it a rear-diff with a different ration ... ? whats the difference ? any links . Thanks.

Originally Posted by Luckrider

FD really does not change the whp, but it does affect where the powerband is at different speeds and makes the car effective peppier.

yes.. it's 4.88 compared to the 4.10 stock ratio, and yes you're right, it doesn't get anymore crank hp, but instead it's a torque multiplier, so it'll be "LIKE" (4.1/4.88)*current hp more to the ground "whp"
the Mark3 supra deff gear and pinion will fit into the frs, only cost $238.70usd. can be bought from www.weirperformance.com if anyone is interested.

ft86 Member PantsDants install thread is here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49288

BTW if anyone is intrested in the formula that I use for ET i'll list it below, I know, I know, there's tons of them on Google, but they all seem to be a bit off.
the formula that I'm using is by no way correct in any way shape or form and I do not pretend that it is 100% accurate, IT will also only be acurate for cars that are over 10 sec et <-at least from what I know..
use it if you like and compare it to other online calculator<-also compare it to the et of other known cars if you like to see how accurate it is.

steps: (car weight / crank hp) then subtract 15.45. after that you divide by 2.9 , and then add 15.4 and you should get your et for 1/4 mile. DONT ask me how I came up with the numbers , they just work.

[Robftss]

SPM / WOT mod.



De-solder as shown.... attach one wire to the switch tab, another to the de-soldered wire. Connect the two wires with a switch of your chosing.

There are hundreds of ways to enable/disable the WOT switch for activation management. I'm going to leave this as a DIY mod, the location and type of SPM switch (toggle, momentary button, press 'on'/ press 'off, micro switch, even a relay activated by another source etc...) is endless.

Myself, I would position the WOT bracket so pedal activation is right to the floor. Perhaps secure some cellfoam rubber to partially stop the pedal bar before WOT activation and provide a change in pedal resistance, like old throttle cabled cars with a secondary butterfly valve that you can feel with the gas pedal. It is a very busy place on a road course... flipping a switch here and there will be a distraction. Or a well positioned KERS style steering wheel button @ 2 o'clock.

My 2 cents.

[Robftss]

Originally Posted by nlowell

Good news on cooling - just landed this morning in San Diego and it is 102 degrees outside. I drove home (25 miles) hitting the ESC multiple times in a row and never tripped the heat mode. I would say the cooling mod is definitely helping with the heat.

Very very good!

We hit 102 ~ 5 days a year

[SuperKazRacing]

Originally Posted by Robftss

Very very good!

We hit 102 ~ 5 days a year

That's Our Morning Temps here in the next few days !

I have a feeling it's gonna be a ROASTER This Summer .....

[Target70]

Originally Posted by shif7i7down

Well, i figured. Stock is 200hp and i make 165whp So that's roughly +15% lost. If e85 esc tune makes 220whp we can safely assume that's 250crank hp at the minimum, with the 488 FD that's another 15% increase on that 250hp which would yelled roughly 287whp at the minimum. With weight/pwr of 2786/287 ,assuming that the esc does not give a fat trq curve like it does but instead just lifts the curve up your looking at 13.4et. BUT because the esc gives a high torq output at 3k to 5k you get a hole shot that's will further bring down your et. Of course these are all estimations but they are modest estimations.

sounds pretty good, but I think the output is kind of lowball. Just going by shiv's dual dump dyno, running 215+ on his 93 tune that is tame enough for 91. From what I have seen, e85 adds about 20hp/20tq. I don't think 235 is too high to hope for, so 270 crank before factoring in the diff.

On another note, has anyone tried removing that black fake grille piece on the frs fender garnish? It is not very big, and I will still have to cut the fender behind the garnish to vent, but the design looks functional. As soon as I figure out how to pull off the front marker light trim I'll go ahead and cut it to flow for the cooling duct too.

[Sojhinn]

Just did a test like @nlowell. I'm currently at 106 F did two really long pulls plus a couple small ones and the thermal sensor did not trip. I'm thinking this is working.

On a side note look what I did this week. (I know this is not for everyone.)



Attachment 78769

[raven1231]

Originally Posted by Target70

sounds pretty good, but I think the output is kind of lowball. Just going by shiv's dual dump dyno, running 215+ on his 93 tune that is tame enough for 91. From what I have seen, e85 adds about 20hp/20tq. I don't think 235 is too high to hope for, so 270 crank before factoring in the diff.

On another note, has anyone tried removing that black fake grille piece on the frs fender garnish? It is not very big, and I will still have to cut the fender behind the garnish to vent, but the design looks functional. As soon as I figure out how to pull off the front marker light trim I'll go ahead and cut it to flow for the cooling duct too.

Hmmm...from my understanding a different FD can result in a loss in 1/4 mile time. This being the case however only if it causes you to shift sooner than you usually would, putting you in a higher gear.

[AN]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

On a side note look what I did this week. (I know this is not for everyone.)

I like it ... what did you use ? Spray Paint ?

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by AN

I like it ... what did you use ? Spray Paint ?

Plastidip. Looks like it came from the factory.