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Old 10-30-2015, 05:10 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by jackblack21 View Post
One thing that really bugged me was finding out that the real HP of my FR-s is about 174 not 200.

How many cars are rated by the company at the crank? I feel it's kinda fraudulent.
Most manufactures don't measure horsepower at all. They measure kilowatts.
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Old 10-30-2015, 09:31 AM   #30
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What's cbe?!?!?


I'll give you the rice noodle😘
CBE = catback exhaust
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:38 PM   #31
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FWIW I made 176 whp with just a CBE on a dynojet (runfiles 1&2).



Edmunds made 173 whp stock on a dynojet as well.



I remember DD Performance in Texas also made 175 whp stock on a dynojet after an ECU reset.



Not sure if it's common or not, but I know a few others have as well.
Dynojets read high, I've dynoed my stock FR-S on a Mustang dyno and it came up to 144whp, Mustangs read low. Were somewhere in the range of 150-160whp.
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Old 10-30-2015, 07:49 PM   #32
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[QUOTE=Captain Snooze;2436550]Most manufactures don't measure horsepower at all. They measure kilowatts.[/QUOTE

Manly Australia only.
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Old 10-30-2015, 08:45 PM   #33
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CBE = catback exhaust

Young sir it so hard to keep up with these new acronyms these yougns come up with


I'll give you the rice noodle😘
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Old 10-31-2015, 10:40 AM   #34
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Dynojets read high, I've dynoed my stock FR-S on a Mustang dyno and it came up to 144whp, Mustangs read low. Were somewhere in the range of 150-160whp.
In the US at least, Dynojets are the most widely used type of dyno by market share. For that reason I'd say Dynojets are the type most people think of when you say you've gotten a dyno reading done, rather than a Mustang, Maha or Dyno Dynamics dyno. I've even heard that Mustang dynos have a "Dynojet mode" where they try to calibrate to Dynojet numbers since that's what people want.

It's fair to say certain dynos read high or low, but IMO that's really only in comparison with a Dynojet, which has kind of become the industry standard for dynos for better or worse.

Really in the end though, dynos can all be calibrated differently so all that matters is how you do relative to your baseline (and other cars that were tested on your exact dyno). I know in the case of the Dynojet I used, most Twins averaged around 165-170 whp, but my car and another guy I know tested in the 175-177 whp range. Both of our cars were frequently tracked, so that might have helped with the break-in process.

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Young sir it so hard to keep up with these new acronyms these yougns come up with


I'll give you the rice noodle��
Haha yeah I hear ya. I find myself searching on google for acronyms more frequently than I'd care to admit!
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Old 10-31-2015, 03:13 PM   #35
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everyone would use crank hp if it was feasible, as it will always be a higher number. That is also why there are dynos that attach at the hubs, more consistency.

Whp can have so man variables in it to be only useful for that particular dyno on that particular day. Plus they can be messed with by techs who know what they are doing, and they are. Some hide sensors in drawers to ruin readings, others do even more shady crap.
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Old 10-31-2015, 04:34 PM   #36
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Look not everyone who comes here is a car guy. I never realised that all cars are rated at the crank, now I know.... Chill.
Which is completely fine. You asked a question, and we answered it for you.
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Old 10-31-2015, 06:59 PM   #37
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I really got pissed off when I discovered that you were supposed to peel the banana before you eat it.

Does anybody else know this?!! ?!! ?! !?
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Old 10-31-2015, 07:02 PM   #38
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All joking aside.

Crank HP is a better rating. Because it measures the power of the engine. So when you're told how much power the engine makes the manufacturer can be more accurate. Once you start measuring power after that (hub dyno, rolling dyno) there's SO many variables at play that can change the figures so giving an accurate number to the public would be like a blind man throwing a dart at a moving dart board.
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Old 10-31-2015, 07:25 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Captain Snooze View Post
Most manufactures don't measure horsepower at all. They measure kilowatts.
That's like saying this part is rated for 70 degrees Celsius, NOT 158 degrees Fahrenheit.
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ineedyourdiddly
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