trying to add some horsepower

[new2subaru]

This is a steal IMO

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117981

[Lantana frs]

Originally Posted by vitti821

so for that i want UEL right. Does it matter which UEL header I get because I see a ton of different ones, also does it matter which tune i use? I am fairly new to this

For the most part uel are a little beefier in the midrange, however there are some els that are torquey as well. Ace, p&l are examples of this. I would buy gruppe s, ofh for overall value.

[nikitopo]

Originally Posted by steve99

Others also sugfest the original tune was rushed and they jyst went rich for safety i assume.

If this was valid only for the first year, then I can accept that the tune was rushed. Not after so many ROM revisions.

Originally Posted by steve99

I would not track my car stock in australia south africa or most parts of asia. High ambient temps coupled with low quality fuels and a stock tune that knocks like crazy on the street let alone the track. At a minium you need an oil cooler and a tune whick is more suited to the petrol available.

Your are right about the issue with the low fuel quality in certain countries. I think that the factory had to make a fix. Probably they sold too few cars there for justifying a fix. However, the topic here was not about the fuel quality. It was about getting more power with changed AFRs or other methods.


Anyway, who cares ... Most guys will throw away these cars after 5-6 years and they won't worth anything. Same thing happened in the past with the 944 Porsches. They lost a lot of their value because they were easy to tune and their owners just used up the engines.

The rest of us who want to keep them for a life, we know what to avoid.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

If this was valid only for the first year, then I can accept that the tune was rushed. Not after so many ROM revisions.



Your are right about the issue with the low fuel quality in certain countries. I think that the factory had to make a fix. Probably they sold too few cars there for justifying a fix. However, the topic here was not about the fuel quality. It was about getting more power with changed AFRs or other methods.


Anyway, who cares ... Most guys will throw away these cars after 5-6 years and they won't worth anything. Same thing happened in the past with the 944 Porsches. They lost a lot of their value because they were easy to tune and their owners just used up the engines.

The rest of us who want to keep them for a life, we know what to avoid.

Same tune in these cars is used in all countries, the changes are only for minor ancillery things, tune tables fueling timing all same in every rom up to 2016, with very minor changes for what looks like economy.

Manufacturer needs to do heaps of testing in multiple countries before they would change tuning worldwide probably why we have waited so long for change

The rom revisions from 2012 to 2016 were to correct cam issues idle stability and air con switching bugs.

The 2017 manuals run new tune where target afr is arround 12.3, prety well what most tuners target. Thier has only been minimal changes to intake header and some other minor revisions. So this would serm to be safe afr in manufactures view.

They also changed the pi\di tables and run more port injection in new tune throughout rpm range unlike oler tune with full di between 3500 and 5200, possibly for better cleaning of intake valve deposits

The auto cars run old tune on 2017

They may have also run super rich afr in early cars to limit knock on low quality fuels.
The new tune appears to run full time closed loop for beter afr control, so its posdible they felt they could run a little leaner and be safe on liw quality fuels, theirs also multiple timing tables in new tune.

Most failures on these engines seem to be oil related spun or failed bearings. Qite a few traced to bits of silicone sealant cloging oil passages. Some likely due to excessive oil temps running thin 0w20 oil during sustained high speed or track work without adequate oil cooling

The oil temps on these cars bget very high stock with sustained high speed driving especially in warm climates.

Were not seeing melted pistons and burnt valves or other stuff you would expect from running to lean, 10.7 is just way rich for an NA car

The video you linked is talking about turbo porches, this will happen with most turbo cars if you wind up the boost to get substantially more hp, their much more gains to be had with tuning turbo factory cars, as you can just wind up the boost but as they say this will result in accelerated wear from the substantially increased hp and spining the turbo to its limits .

[ixobelle]

fwiw, I've started with just an OFT tablet and flashed to the Stage 2 EL 85, so I could run the 85 fuel (I was curious, as I had never heard of it before I got my BRZ). It made a huge difference. I have a gas station I pass on my way to work, so it was convenient, and one near my work, but those are the only two I fill up at now... It's a hassle, but you FEEL the difference.

Have a cold air intake now (no big difference), and have some used Tomei UEL headers showing up next week (I paid 520). From there I've got my eye on a Berk Muffler Delete kit, and then hopefully I'll be able to stop throwing money away. I'll stick to the stock overpipe and main run for now... ?

It's fun once you start, and this is mostly new to me as well.

[nikitopo]

Originally Posted by ixobelle

fwiw, I've started with just an OFT tablet and flashed to the Stage 2 EL 85, so I could run the 85 fuel (I was curious, as I had never heard of it before I got my BRZ). It made a huge difference. I have a gas station I pass on my way to work, so it was convenient, and one near my work, but those are the only two I fill up at now... It's a hassle, but you FEEL the difference.

If you want to run e85, I would suggest to use at least a FlexFuel kit. Main reason is that at any refill the content of ethanol can change and range anywhere between the mythical 85% ethanol to as low as 51% ethanol. Check here for details:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...90&postcount=1

There is also another post by Shiv that claimed that FlexFuel kit was not really necessary for N/A engines and to not believe the hype. Check here for details:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...96&postcount=1

Nowadays, he is also selling a similar kit: http://www.openflashtablet.com/shop/...flex-fuel-kit/

So guys, take care who you trust! It is your cars after all.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

If you want to run e85, I would suggest to use at least a FlexFuel kit. Main reason is that at any refill the content of ethanol can change and range anywhere between the mythical 85% ethanol to as low as 51% ethanol. Check here for details:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...90&postcount=1

There is also another post by Shiv that claimed that FlexFuel kit was not really necessary for N/A engines and to not believe the hype. Check here for details:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...96&postcount=1

Nowadays, he is also selling a similar kit: http://www.openflashtablet.com/shop/...flex-fuel-kit/

So guys, take care who you trust! It is your cars after all.

Depends mainly if you have ethanol supply with constant ethanol percent.

Here we have two sources one is guaranteed E85 85%ethanol and the other is flexible percentage but has been found to be stable 70% ethanol.

We have large numbers of NA cars running E85 on either blend and also lots of Forced induction guys running ethanol most without flex fuel kits because the ethanol percent is constant or guaranteed by the fuel supplier.

ie we are lucky.

In USA they are not so lucky and ethanol can vary in some places between 60 and 90%. This is acceptable for NA cars but way to much variation for FI cars. Now some places the variation can be down to 50% so this is when you need a flex kit and tune instead of just a dedicated E85 tune.

you just need to check the specs of the E85 in your country.


FI guys in USA using variable percentage E85 pump fuels definitely need flex kits. NA guys can get away with 60-90% but 50% is beyond the limits of the adaptability of the tunes without flex fuel setups, however some guys have re-tuned for the current variations in their area ie 50-70%

Yeah a flex kit / tune is best option for anyone, but NA guys can get away with it it most cases, just monitor your fuel trims and knock it will tell you when the E% is way off. OFT you can set up alarms for fuel trims and knock, will beep and flash within seconds if its out of bounds.