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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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04-23-2021, 05:45 PM | #29 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Leviticus Ezra For This Useful Post: | Jaden (04-25-2021) |
04-23-2021, 05:46 PM | #30 | |
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04-23-2021, 05:49 PM | #31 | |
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04-23-2021, 10:37 PM | #32 | |
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Of course I wasn't happy with that. Turbo noises! Thermal efficiency! My favorite kits ended up being the JSRC no-cut specifically for the no-cut option, followed by AVO for the most OEM-like setup, then the SBD kit since it's very cost effective even with some extras. That doesn't mean you made a bad choice, I hope you love the works kit while you run it! It's the only mass produced air-to-water kit for our cars that I know of too. Air to air is often labelled the best choice but as long as the carrier liquid doesn't heat soak it's going to remove more thermal energy from the charge per square inch of core and it's got a much shorter path from the turbo to the cylinder than a front mounted option. |
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04-24-2021, 11:25 AM | #33 | |
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04-25-2021, 11:17 AM | #34 | |
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That was 5 years ago.
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Actually, technically I'm finishing up my Jetta VRT project first, then I'll finish up the supercharger. Well, not finishing, but I want to get first start done with the stand alone on the Jetta before I finish the supercharger. Jaden |
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04-26-2021, 08:29 PM | #35 |
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I got my car back today, and;
The Competition Stage 2 clutch needs another 400 miles to bed-in but, so far the pedal is a little stiffer and engagement is smooth enough. I think I'll get used to it quickly and it'll be fine for a daily. I also spoke with Jeff about spark plugs while I was there. He said that because of the high compression ratio Subaru uses a "9" stock, which is the coldest plug aside from racecar plugs that cost $100 a pop. So, stock plugs are apparently good enough. |
04-27-2021, 01:24 PM | #36 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | jrhudson (04-27-2021) |
04-27-2021, 03:19 PM | #37 |
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Yes this is true, but water will also take longer to heat soak. Those issues can be fixed with increasing water capacity and/or increasing heat exchanger. That means more points of failure for more money, but it will work if setup correctly.
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04-27-2021, 03:48 PM | #38 | |
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IMO if you aren't tracking and don't have to worry about CARB turbos are more fun on this car. |
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04-27-2021, 05:54 PM | #39 | |
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This applies to the Harrop/Edelbrock kits as well. |
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04-27-2021, 07:57 PM | #40 | ||
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I'll be more specific. You can increase your water capacity by getting a 5 gallon water tank and/or increasing your heat exchanger for more volume of water and more surface area for cooling. If you're sitting in traffic for a while, it will heat soak but once you get going water temps will drop to near ambient. This could also be said about any setup though. BUT this is, for sure, wayyy more work than an A2A setup though. Like I said in a previous post, it'll work if you set it up correctly. It's just more complex and work. |
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04-27-2021, 08:11 PM | #41 | |
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You can increase the surface area of the heat exchanger, but very quickly hit diminishing returns on depth, because the water's temperature delta to ambient is very small, unlike an air-air intercooler, or engine radiator. Using a very typical exxample, at 70mph, going from a 1" thick heat exchanger to a 3" thick heat exchanger will have.... zero increase in actual heat exchange from the water to the atmosphere, and given identical fin densities, actually hurt cooling, as now restriction has significantly increased. I've done a looooooooooooooooooooot of water cooling for both vehicular and industrial applications. |
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04-27-2021, 09:05 PM | #42 |
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Killerchiller or interchiller
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boost, forced induction, help me, question, tips |
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