In the process of Boosting my BRZ, did I miss anything?
 

Basically I'm in the middle of gathering all the parts needed to boost the 86 platform. However, I can't help but feel like I may be forgetting something or that their may be other parts to be considered. I've been from page to page reading and researching, but most my findings have been "it doesn't need much more than the bolt on kit" or the one or two people saying "consider a cooler if the car sees track time." Obviously, there has been more valuable findings, but that seems to be it for the most part. My intentions are to keep the reliability factor into play by aiding any components that may see intensive use after boost. The kit I have chosen to go with is the Works Stage 2 Tuner, and have already selected a handful of support mods. Just throwing it out there to see if there's any input that I could have missed. Along side the kit, I plan on installing:
•Mishimoto Radiator
•Mishimoto Oil Cooler
•Perrin Engine Mounts
•Radium Dual Catch Can Kit
•Grimmspeed Boost Controller
•3 Bar Map Sensor
•Delicious Tuning Flex Fuel Kit
•DW64c Fuel Pump
•DeatschWerks 700cc injectors
As well as a few other things such as a turbo blanket, a wideband guage, a oil temp and pressure gauge also. Aside from most of what has been mentioned and very clearly a form of tuning (already intend on choosing EcuTek), is there anything else that I could be considering when trying to make my BRZ as reliable as possible under boost?

Clutch.

pcv from wrx sti

Stronger engine..

Tires and brakes.
Get your spark plugs changed if the car has more than 40k miles (just so that you don't need to worry about them during tuning)
Take care of any oil leaks
Do a full fluid service on trans and diff
If you upgrade your clutch, also upgrade the clutch fork

I've been looking at the Southbend Daily Clutch that holds 315 ft/lbs of tongue with their flywheel. Is there an option that may be more reputable?

Care for explaining why?

My intentions for the build are to be reliable. Reliable enough to steer clear of any internal work for the time being, until I'm dissatisfied with the performance. I plan on only building about 8 pounds on a good tune, and possibly 10 pounds on an e85 map. Does that still sound like something that'll require engine work?

The car has the factory Brembos, will those not handle the added power? Right now my only hurdle with tires is selecting the rims that I think suit the car, I've come down to a few rims, but I figure for at least the time being I can run it on stocks very carefully until I find the right rims. So the cars relatively new, still has 6500 miles. Still good to swap the plugs out for something of quality? Or not worth the time?
Haven't seen any leaks out of the car yet, but I plan to expect it thuroughly during not only the install process, but the tuning and commuting as well. I'll be under the car nonstop until I'm confident it has no leaks. I've taken initiative to get Subarus 5w-30 oil alongside their Super Coolant for the install process, should I get some Motul gear fluid still just in case? And I haven't quite considered clutch forks. Are their significant pros to having a aftermarket fork? If so, which one?

talked a lot about if you search

stock pcv doesn't hold boost and it leaks boost in the crankcase
So you ll lose boost, pressurize crankcase, car will feel slugghish and probably helping burning oil more than it should

Brakes should be fine then, maintenance wise the car should be fine with so few miles. Usually when someone is boosting their car, it's a busted ass 2013 with 109k miles straight off of Craigslist.

Some of your component choices are low price leader options. Choose higher quality components throughout.

I like the theory the Works kit is trying, but there are big drawbacks in the hot side piping:
1. Distance exhaust has to travel between the exhaust port and the turbo. The further the exhaust pulses have to travel the more energy is lost before the turbo.
2. Complex path and piping shape from exhaust port to turbo. The OEM header is a huge restriction, then the pulses need to take two sharp turns, go through the turbo, then go through two more sharp turns. Lots of energy lost.
3. If you use the OEM header the turbo is at risk of getting wrecked by some loose catalyst blowing by. Even if that doesn't happen the catalyst is constantly being eroded (https://www.sae.org/publications/tec.../2001-01-1995/) which will mechanically erode the exhaust turbine as if it were being media blasted.

It's not going to be immediate failure but I'll bet most long running Works kits with primary cats in place have evidence of abnormal wear on the hot side. I really think you may want to consider a super charger setup if you can't go with a more efficient turbo kit.

I swapped to that clutch and 5th gear slips even after proper break in.