Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[Keenercarguy]

@strat61caster Thanks for that link! I'll definitely take stock sizes into consideration and your review of the tire wear is also very helpful, even though I'm only going to be using them as a race set and switch back to my Pilot Super Sports for street. And yeah I'm not going to skimp on pads, I'm defonitely going to look into getting the best for my situation, once i figure out exactly what that is haha. I'm also looking into ducting to keep 'em cool but I honestly don't think that'll be necessary for a long time.

[Lunatic]

On the track, if your pushing your car to the max, should Hankook RS-3's be squealing on every turn?

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Check out this test on the ZI Star Specs, the 86 was slower on track with the 235 vs the 215, had more lateral grip but the added rubber slowed it in the straights.

http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cult...ransformation/

That's a very apples to oranges comparison. The wider tires were nearly an inch taller.

[VADERR]

Originally Posted by Lunatic

On the track, if your pushing your car to the max, should Hankook RS-3's be squealing on every turn?

With those tires the should "sing" to you at maximum grip if they are "screaming" they being pushed too hard. IMO


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[Lunatic]

Originally Posted by VADERR

With those tires the should "sing" to you at maximum grip if they are "screaming" they being pushed too hard. IMO


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They weren't making any noise at all. So should I assume I wasn't pushing them hard enough?

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Lunatic

On the track, if your pushing your car to the max, should Hankook RS-3's be squealing on every turn?

Yes, check out some of CSG's vids.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCss...XsV-u24rhQUdkg

Originally Posted by redlined600

That's a very apples to oranges comparison. The wider tires were nearly an inch taller.

And incredibly relevant to the discussion at hand, there's a 0.4" difference in diameter between 215-225 and then 225-235 RS3's, a difference that will grow as they are crammed onto the same size wheel as tirerack measures on a more appropriately sized 7"-7.5"-8" wheels for each size.

But yes, the gearing difference should have been mentioned in my post and I think was neglected in the article.

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by Lunatic

They weren't making any noise at all. So should I assume I wasn't pushing them hard enough?

A singing tire is a happy tire, a growling tire is an angry tire.

You should definitely be hearing noise at the limits. It will vary from tire to tire (some give more audible feedback than others) but when you are getting the ideal slip angle, at the limits of adhesion, you should hear the pleasant singing. Once you start overdriving, the tone will change to something that sounds more abusive/agressive (you may even feel vibrations in the steering wheel or chassis depending on how badly you're cooking it) and you need to back off one or more of your inputs. If you're getting this in a corner, unwind the wheel a bit until the angry sound goes away then resume what you were doing. You can also ease (and I mean ease) off the gas. DON'T lift quickly, that's a good recipe for a spin. You want to reduce your speed / corner angle without upsetting the balance of the car.

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Yes, check out some of CSG's vids.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCss...XsV-u24rhQUdkg



And incredibly relevant to the discussion at hand, there's a 0.4" difference in diameter between 215-225 and then 225-235 RS3's, a difference that will grow as they are crammed onto the same size wheel as tirerack measures on a more appropriately sized 7"-7.5"-8" wheels for each size.

But yes, the gearing difference should have been mentioned in my post and I think was neglected in the article.

That's why you don't go 235/45-17. If stock is a 215/45-17, switching to a 245/40-17 only changes your overall diameter by .1" which becomes a moot point especially once you've lost 1/16" of tread.

Handy site for calculations, especially if you're planning staggered or non-stock setups: http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-...0R17/235-45R17

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by dp1

Yes, my one and only day at Thompson in Aug 2014, doubt I'll be back. I HPDE at Palmer, NJMP Th/Li and WGI, and AX at LRP.

Small world. You run all the same tracks except I haven't been to Palmer yet (scheduling conflicts). Hopefully I'll catch you out there. Next year already have April 10-11 @ NJMP and June 6th-7th @ WGI planned.

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Check out this test on the ZI Star Specs,
I was in the same boat last year, chose the Dunlops based on the shop's recommendation and expected to be replacing the tires after ~9x autox events and 3x track days but they're still sitting on the car with 14k miles on them and a decent amount of tread left, guess I'm not as fast a driver as I thought I was.

The problem I find with the Direzzas is not a treadwear issue, it's a heatcycle issue. After only 9k miles (~12hrs track time, ~15 Auto-X runs not days, and daily commuting) the tread isn't even close to the wear markers but grip has fallen off significantly, especially wet grip. On a damp day I can send the car sideways at will with no effort and damp track driving has become sketchy at best so it's time to retire them.

Conversely, with Kumho XS, the grip level doesn't fall off as much over time but by 10k you've almost got slicks so it's time to change them anyway.

Also, the XS become Flintstone tires at anything under 50o. Direzzas are a 'little' more pliable into the 40's.

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by jsimon7777

@Uplink
I really like the PFC 08. I think you're the only person other than me to use them on the twins. I've never done longer than 30 minutes in a session, and I never ran into fade with them. My concentration and stomach fade after 25 minutes. When I did 30, I pulled in, took of my helmet, and threw up. Fun!

They also work great on the street. Just a bit of whine, but good grip cold.

I also don't think they're a problem for braking late, hard, and deep. Certainly their bite is better than stock pads. Others might bite a bit quicker, but it's dead simple to make ABS engage at high speeds.

I found the 08's after running into issues with Hawk replacements for my Vette's Baer system. They have smooth initial bite and excellent modulation and longevity. Most people run the 01's which have a little more torque I believe but are a LOT more agressive and don't last as long.

Admittedly the first few easy stops on very cold mornings (<45o) don't feel very grippy. It's a slight uneasy 'I'm not slowing fast enough' feeling. Once they get a little heat though they are fine... except for the squeal. Which ironically the Vette '08's don't do much at all.

Sorry about your motion sickness. Have you tried any of the non-drowsy medications for it? Also, make sure you are keeping your eyes up, far ahead. I've seen more than a few people get sick because they were looking too close to the car or not all the way through the corners. It makes the car movements feel much more exaggerated. Likewise, smoothing all the inputs can help as well.

[EAGLE5]

Originally Posted by Uplink

I found the 08's after running into issues with Hawk replacements for my Vette's Baer system. They have smooth initial bite and excellent modulation and longevity. Most people run the 01's which have a little more torque I believe but are a LOT more agressive and don't last as long.

Admittedly the first few easy stops on very cold mornings (<45o) don't feel very grippy. It's a slight uneasy 'I'm not slowing fast enough' feeling. Once they get a little heat though they are fine... except for the squeal. Which ironically the Vette '08's don't do much at all.

Sorry about your motion sickness. Have you tried any of the non-drowsy medications for it? Also, make sure you are keeping your eyes up, far ahead. I've seen more than a few people get sick because they were looking too close to the car or not all the way through the corners. It makes the car movements feel much more exaggerated. Likewise, smoothing all the inputs can help as well.

I have not tried meds. I always get side effects that bug me. Actually, my last track day was pretty good, but I was going slowly thanks to the rain. I tend to look around a lot, near and far. Mostly mid-distance, past the apex. Smoothness helps, but basically, I'm a wuss.

I find the stock brakes are essentially always less grippy. Ultramaroon felt the same. I'm sure other pads are more grippy in the cold. I picked up some XP10 fronts and XP8 rears from another forum member to try in the future. I expect to have this car for a long time.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Fricke

So this is the tiers i have managed to track down whit E label for euro tiers, and is god too go in the Swedish club class in Time attack.

Yokohama advan AD08R TW180.
Kumho ecsta xs (KU36) TW180.
Nankang NS2R TW180.
Bridgestone Potenza RE002 Adrenalin TW220.
Michelin Pilot Super Sport TW300.
Michelin pilot sport ps2 TW220.
Pirelli P zero TW220.
Toyo R1R TW200.




Now I have Ben told that even the Hankook RS3 can be found here in Europe whit the E-marking.
So does that change the game?

I would go with the Kumho XS from that list.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Uplink

The problem I find with the Direzzas is not a treadwear issue, it's a heatcycle issue. After only 9k miles (~12hrs track time, ~15 Auto-X runs not days, and daily commuting) the tread isn't even close to the wear markers but grip has fallen off significantly, especially wet grip. On a damp day I can send the car sideways at will with no effort and damp track driving has become sketchy at best so it's time to retire them.

Conversely, with Kumho XS, the grip level doesn't fall off as much over time but by 10k you've almost got slicks so it's time to change them anyway.

Also, the XS become Flintstone tires at anything under 50o. Direzzas are a 'little' more pliable into the 40's.

That is a TON of track time. I would normally recommend a maximum of 8 hours for most tires, assuming you didn't cook them or damage them at any point. You're well beyond those tires' good life.

Don't be afraid of driving harder at the track; if you're gonna toss the tires after a given number of heat cycles, you might as well wear them too.