Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[NickFRS]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

You drive just the opposite as me. I'm always (99%) under 3k rpms. I'm sure my MPG is higher than yours.

Bobby de-tuned my car from under 1500 RPM (way under stock timing) and told me to always be above 2,500 RPM on my last tune. I shift at 3,500 at least now. Car is funner.

Originally Posted by evan

Who drives this car below 3k? It's not in it's powerband to be below 3k. PD supercharger is going to have the least lag out of most other FI solutions. The only time I'm under 3k is when taking off normally from a stop. Sometimes when going highway speeds in 6th cruising along, but I certainly don't punch it in 6th. I downshift to 5th or 4th depending on what my intention is.

Edit: I have this SC with a brzedit tune and no lag. 277whp dyno dynamics uncorrected, looking for over 300whp on E85 and injectors/pump.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Consciousness

I always drive 2,500-4k now. If car dips bellow 3k I downshift.

[Powersfrs]

I drive bout 70% of the time under 3000 rpm not cause of mpg but cause of stupid traffic here LA! (But I make it up on the weekends with spirited drives in the canyons) but anyways I just joined the pack n ordered my kit last week n soon I'll be getting it tuned with deliciuos tuning flex fuel kit !!cant wait to see what 300whp is gonna feel like!! Wooohooo

[Khorne]

So anyone know which AOS Catch cans fit with this blower, im looking at the Radium (100% fits the blower not sure about hood struts) and the Cusco verticle AOS type?

[CK_Bladesmith]

The ADD W1 fits just fine. Here's where I mounted mine.

[Ryan86]

I see your pipes also sucking in from the heat. I'm going to add rubber hoses to ensure proper flow.

Seem you have more space on the LHD than we have on the RHD?

[CK_Bladesmith]

Yeah they are sucking in. What's the best hose for preventing this? Regular black heater hose?

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by CK_Bladesmith

Yeah they are sucking in. What's the best hose for preventing this? Regular black heater hose?

Radium ships with 1/2" ID black heater hose.

[Ryan86]

Normal rubber heat hose will be fine. Don't know why the OCC come with garden style hose. Silly.

[CK_Bladesmith]

10-4. I'll head to the auto parts store and grab some in a bit. Appreciated

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by Ryan86

Received some new goodies thought worth sharing as the price and quality superb.

Bought 3 sizes of the @Receseng pulleys, opted for the blemished pulleys due to them being $30 cheaper, I can't find a single defect so there quality assurance must be impicable. Belt runs perfect on these pulleys.
I get why all of you in the States run the 70mm the power delivery over the 75mm puts a on my face.

Opted for the D1 Spec Oil Catch Can, as the local Subaru racers use them and highly recommend. For $100 this can is super quality and well made. Battled to find a easy spot to fit, so once again the tower brace came in handy, just uses U bolts to clamp. Took for a spin after 100km could see small amounts of oil in the clear pipes, so it works. Will change the clear pipes to proper black rubber pipes next week.

Then something small, but also highly recommended by the race team, is increasing your radiator cap pressure, our OEM cap is rated at 1.1 bar, I increased the cap pressure to 1.3 bar. I got the TRD cap initially, but opted to get the D1 Spec to match color.
Upping the valve opening pressure of the pressure regulator on the radiator cap to allow higher radiator pressure increases the boiling point of the coolant, reduces bubbles, improves cooling, and generally maximizes the cooling performance of the radiator.

Here some pics installed.

What's the part # on the radiator cap and the Blue Gates belt? Is the blue gates belt K060815RB (Blue)? Is it the same for the 75mm and the 70mm pulleys?

[Ryan86]

The BG belt part # is correct. Yes I use the same belt on 75mm and 70mm. As I did mention the 75mm is a bit of a effort but it goes on.

D1 spec we source from the UK. I also have the TRD radiator cap which is rated at 1.3 bar, you can get the cap from Nigel JDM Parts in the US. Just make sure its genuine as many fakes going around.
If you want the D1 spec let me know I'll get the link for you.

[calispec]

Originally Posted by CK_Bladesmith

The ADD W1 fits just fine. Here's where I mounted mine.

You might have your catch can hooked up wrong.. Or you know something I don't which could be the case.. I believe the inlet should come off the Crank Case Vent which I believe is pictured below. Its an 11/32" hose. You can probably get away with a 3/8". If this is not where you have it hooked up let me know where you do!



not a great pic. There is a better one here.

[Ryan86]

You are correct, the crankcase breather that plugs into the middle connector of the back of the charger goes to the inlet of the Occ and the outlet then runs to the middle connector back of SC.

[calispec]

I figured I would give my opinion on the rpm bs thats running around.

Obviously this is a PD supercharger and for those who don't know what this means here you go: the supercharger is mechanically driven by the crank. That means for every revolution of the crank the supercharger does some multiple of that.. for numbers sake we will say that the supercharger turns 5 times for every 1 revolution of the crank. this ratio is true at 1rpm and 7000 rpm

Also the reason it is called a PD supercharger is because for the 5 revolutions the charger does for every 1 revolution of the crank, the charger will push more air into the engine than the volume of all 4 cylinders. In theory, ignoring efficiencies, friction, drag etc, this setup will produce just as much "boost" per revolution of the motor at 1rpm than it will make at 7000rpm.

This is why superchargers make so much low end power. AND why it CAN be a problem. You have just as much power making potential at 1 rpm that you have at 7000 rpm. Dynamics come into play because the motor turning and explosions are occurring. At low rpm cylinder pressures can be high because explosions are being held in the combustion chamber for a longer period of time and can fully expand before the exhaust valve opens. more cylinder pressure means more force on con rods, and on the crank, etc.. could be bad if the motor isn't built for it.

Now for driving our cars around like normal people on our way to work none of this matters. There is a recirculation valve built into the manifold. It takes all that air that it worked so hard to push through the screws back into the manifold BEFORE the charger and then pushes it through the screws again.. just sitting and spinning.. I would say the average person driving with this supercharger has VACUUM or negative pressure 95% of the time they are driving REGARDLESS if you keep your engine above 4K or you putttttt around at 1500. You are not generating POSITIVE pressure "boost" at 5000 rpm under 1/4 throttle period.

So you aren't generating boost at 2000 rpm (or 7000 rpm) under 1/4 throttle but what you do have is the POTENTIAL to generate quite a bit. as soon as you roll on the throttle and the pressure in the manifold BERORE the charger starts to creep up closer to atmospheric (which is what the pressure is on the other side of the throttle body), that little recirculation valve closes and boom.... we are now seeing positive pressure in the intake manifold and that charger is doing what it was designed to do.. cram air into our engine..

bottom line is if there isn't positive pressure in the manifold (MAP) the engine doesn't know whether there is a supercharger on it... a turbo.. a guy with really big lungs blowing a ton of hot air into it. If you do get on it early, and have a good tuner, chances are they left enough overlap in the cam timing to keep cylinder pressures at a reasonable level and you aren't going to screw anything up.. Drive the car NORMAL.. if you go up a big hill or want to accelerate quickly.. yeah.. downshift.. get it to the happy state around 3K. If you are really worried about it get a boost gauge. keep it under vacuum unless you are above 3K.. Unless you are just trying to attract attention to yourself and show boat there is no reason to drive around normally at 4000 rpm..