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Old 01-28-2016, 08:45 AM   #281
Matt@Cosworth
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what sort of temps are you seeing?
as it wants to be at least 85- 100°C
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:16 AM   #282
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what sort of temps are you seeing?
as it wants to be at least 85- 100°C
I actually haven't kept tabs on it since my car is 80% DD and 20% Spirit Driving. I probably should...
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:35 AM   #283
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I actually haven't kept tabs on it since my car is 80% DD and 20% Spirit Driving. I probably should...
Its fairly easy to monitor using a scan tool knock-off ODB bluetooth dongle and torque app on your phone.

My suspision is that your oil temps it might be a bit low unless you are hooning around. The perrin kit uses an 175F mocal thermostatic sandwich plate. I've got a 210F one and oil temps sit at around 165-170F in 60F ambient. The perrin radiator is significantly smaller though, but then again it probably gets more airflow up front.
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Old 01-31-2016, 10:32 PM   #284
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Two weeks ago after autocross, I think my baby got vapor lock. I tried the push button start 3 times but ended up needing to give it gas for it to startup. It was rough idling for half a mile but resolved after highway speeds. It was kind of cold outside. No issues since. This was the one time I used a different shell gas station. Bad gas? any suggestions of things to check. I have a dw65 fuel pump and my afr seems okay through torque pro.
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Old 02-01-2016, 02:33 AM   #285
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I'm considering taking my Perrin oil cooler off since I don't track my car crazily. Does anyone else have an oil cooler on their twin?
I am running the Perrin oil cooler on mine, but for summer I have replaced the mocal thermostat/spacer stack with a one piece non-thermostatic sandwich. I allow the car to warm up for about 4-5 mins before I head out and am up to operating temp rather quickly.
A lot depends on the local climate I guess.
33C (92F) ambient here today saw my oil temps up to 98C (208F) and that was cruising at 110 km/h (70mp/h) on the highway. Hooning in the hills pushes it over 105C (210F) easily . I also have to deal with high humidity as well, so I deem my Cooler necessary, although I may swap back to the thermostated sandwich during the winter.
The P3Cars vent gauge is also a handy way to keep track of temps/boost/afr etc.
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Old 02-01-2016, 09:51 AM   #286
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I am running the Perrin oil cooler on mine, but for summer I have replaced the mocal thermostat/spacer stack with a one piece non-thermostatic sandwich. I allow the car to warm up for about 4-5 mins before I head out and am up to operating temp rather quickly.
A lot depends on the local climate I guess.
33C (92F) ambient here today saw my oil temps up to 98C (208F) and that was cruising at 110 km/h (70mp/h) on the highway. Hooning in the hills pushes it over 105C (210F) easily . I also have to deal with high humidity as well, so I deem my Cooler necessary, although I may swap back to the thermostated sandwich during the winter.
The P3Cars vent gauge is also a handy way to keep track of temps/boost/afr etc.
Why would you remove the thermostatic plate? Even in hot weather it is beneficial to the oil up to working temperature faster?
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Old 02-01-2016, 02:05 PM   #287
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Why would you remove the thermostatic plate? Even in hot weather it is beneficial to the oil up to working temperature faster?
Probably heard that they can fail and get stuck closed, but the Mocal design is such that if it fails, it sticks open, and just operates like a non-thermo plate from what I understand.
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Old 02-01-2016, 05:23 PM   #288
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Probably heard that they can fail and get stuck closed, but the Mocal design is such that if it fails, it sticks open, and just operates like a non-thermo plate from what I understand.
More concerned about o-ring failure in the stack of plates, and that the one piece billet item i have currently has ports for pre/post cooler temp sensors which the perrin lacked. My plan is to fit an in-line thermostat, but haven't yet gotten around to it. This car is not my daily so I do not find it an inconvenience at the moment to allow it to idle up close to temp before i take it out. But yeah, the plan is to go back to thermostated before the cooler weather comes.
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Old 02-01-2016, 07:02 PM   #289
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More concerned about o-ring failure in the stack of plates, and that the one piece billet item i have currently has ports for pre/post cooler temp sensors which the perrin lacked. My plan is to fit an in-line thermostat, but haven't yet gotten around to it. This car is not my daily so I do not find it an inconvenience at the moment to allow it to idle up close to temp before i take it out. But yeah, the plan is to go back to thermostated before the cooler weather comes.
Fair enough. Which one piece plate do you have?

I'm not particularly happy with my cooler setup. Even with a 99C thermostatic plate, anything below 15C ambient and the oil wont get above 80C without hammering it a bit which is not ideal.


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Old 02-01-2016, 07:38 PM   #290
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Fair enough. Which one piece plate do you have?

I'm not particularly happy with my cooler setup. Even with a 99C thermostatic plate, anything below 15C ambient and the oil wont get above 80C without hammering it a bit which is not ideal.


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It was made by a local company here in Australia called Gray Developments. Looks very OEM with a soda blasted finish, but I think it was a small production run. Here's a link to their website...
http://www.forgedperformance.com.au/

I rarely see ambient temps below 15C here. even in Winter, but when it does it can indeed be difficult to get up to temp... in contrast my intake temps in Summer run about 12-15C above ambient unlike the rest of you due to the humidity and heat. ( No leaks, kinks or air trapped in the system and my pump is in perfect working order, just seems to be the nature of the beast.)
Heres a link to a photo of my engine bay which will give you a better idea. I would also like to install a banjo fittiing similar to the Mishimoto design to give the oil line a bit more clearance to the air box.
http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/mu...ml?sort=3&o=10
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Old 02-01-2016, 07:55 PM   #291
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I actully have the silver mishimoto plate with the banjos. Not fitted it yet though. Looks like ill still need to fit the mocal spacer (and maybe cut the bolt shorter) to get it to fit over the lip. I like that the sensor port is also after the cooler so I cam get a better idea of oil pressure. At the moment its sharing the port where the pressure switch is located.

Ive got a huge oil cooler and thats part of the problem I think. It's about 1.5x the volume of the perrin.

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Old 02-01-2016, 09:26 PM   #292
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I actully have the silver mishimoto plate with the banjos. Not fitted it yet though. Looks like ill still need to fit the mocal spacer (and maybe cut the bolt shorter) to get it to fit over the lip. I like that the sensor port is also after the cooler so I cam get a better idea of oil pressure. At the moment its sharing the port where the pressure switch is located.

Ive got a huge oil cooler and thats part of the problem I think. It's about 1.5x the volume of the perrin.

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Perhaps locating the cooler core in your drivers side fender well with a shroud to bring direct airflow similar to the KateCool setup may help with overcooling? Seems like you need my core and I need yours lol !
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Old 02-02-2016, 12:16 PM   #293
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It was made by a local company here in Australia called Gray Developments. Looks very OEM with a soda blasted finish, but I think it was a small production run. Here's a link to their website...
http://www.forgedperformance.com.au/

I rarely see ambient temps below 15C here. even in Winter, but when it does it can indeed be difficult to get up to temp... in contrast my intake temps in Summer run about 12-15C above ambient unlike the rest of you due to the humidity and heat. ( No leaks, kinks or air trapped in the system and my pump is in perfect working order, just seems to be the nature of the beast.)
Heres a link to a photo of my engine bay which will give you a better idea. I would also like to install a banjo fittiing similar to the Mishimoto design to give the oil line a bit more clearance to the air box.
http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/mu...ml?sort=3&o=10

I like your belt cover very swish, who makes that?

also with regard to the high intake temps I note that on your image of the installation I can see some sort of spacer block under the temperature / pressure sensor on the manifold?
the bead needs to be in the airstream to function properly otherwise you'll get a false reading?
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Old 02-02-2016, 12:21 PM   #294
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Perhaps locating the cooler core in your drivers side fender well with a shroud to bring direct airflow similar to the KateCool setup may help with overcooling? Seems like you need my core and I need yours lol !
My oil cooler is mounted on the driverside fender, right behind the fog light. I made a little airguide.


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