Boosted Blown Motor Options, Should it Happen

[Binary_fission]

Originally Posted by Spartarus

For a budget of $4099, Stripping down and building your own engine funds the internals as well as the valvetrain, clutch and flywheel, injectors, proper ARP studs, and most of a fuel pump. You know, all the real support for a boosted build.

When I blow my engine, i hope you ganna be around to help me rebuild it. No labor, just advice for parts and prices.
No sarcasm either, im just learning about cars and looks like you got experience.

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[weederr33]

Originally Posted by Spartarus

I fixed your post for you.



They didn't build or engineer anything in that engine like they claim. They just hype it up so they can upcharge the sh*t out of it.

They're a shit shop that trades their entire reputation on a car they built in 2009 on an UNLIMITED BUDGET (talking about the Gymkhana car they ceaselessly brag about). Any f*ck hole with a wrench can do that. Any idea why Gymkhana 3 - 7 haven't been built there?

For a budget of $4099, Stripping down and building your own engine funds the internals as well as the valvetrain, clutch and flywheel, injectors, proper ARP studs, and most of a fuel pump. You know, all the real support for a boosted build.

...so... Rods and Pistons, clutch, flywheel, injectors, and fuel pump is all I need to build my engine?

[SLOWrz]

I recently blew a headgasket and figured since the motor was being opened to take the time and forge the internals. Dropped to 10:1 CR and will most likely aim at around 16-20psi. The reason why I went 10:1 was mainly because I am moving to the east-coast soon and the location does not have E85 like we do in Socal(Don't want to run meth-inj). 93oct with 18ish psi should be decent enough power for me as it is my daily. I'm running the SBD Kit with supporting mods and plan on upgrading to the 3076 when it is released to shoot for 380-400whp on pump and 450 on E85. As for now, when my motor is done being built I plan on keeping it conservative until I upgrade Turbocharger(or whole kit) and or reinforce the transmission.

[strat61caster]

+1 if my engine blew, forged pistons, rods, and fix what failed (DI seals, valvetrain, crank bearings etc.) that seems to be all there is to do to it right now. As above off the shelf parts, would get the grease under my fingernails DIY.

Right now the two mysteries I see are the oil pressure drop at high rpms and the valvetrain rocker failure, maybe Element is the only ones investigating because they have been unfortunate enough to experience both and they are pushing the limits of the block, idk. But I do know that I doubt my car will see anything more strenous than a CARB legal FI kit of the ~240whp variety.

Guess it'd be a rebuild for NA for my vote?

[kch]

Originally Posted by Binary_fission

And where did you see their turbo kit doesn't come with intercooler?

They just released what they call their "Plus 100 Kit."

https://crawfordperformance.com/prod...100-turbo-kit/

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95265

From what I understand, it basically requires E85 and only gives +100 at the crank (allegedly) at 12psi. All that performance for $4400.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by weederr33

...so... Rods and Pistons, clutch, flywheel, injectors, and fuel pump is all I need to build my engine?

For a basic build? yes.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by kch

They just released what they call their "Plus 100 Kit."

https://crawfordperformance.com/prod...100-turbo-kit/

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95265

From what I understand, it basically requires E85 and only gives +100 at the crank (allegedly) at 12psi. All that performance for $4400.

Their own dyno shows it does less than +100 crank hp.

Pretty sad.

[Spartarus]

Originally Posted by weederr33

...so... Rods and Pistons, clutch, flywheel, injectors, and fuel pump is all I need to build my engine?

Well, you missed the valvetrain and fasteners. I was pretty specific. And what you "need" is relative... Depends on what you're building for, how much boost, and where you want the power band to be. I mentioned earlier in the thread that you can beat quite a bit of power out of an internally unmodified engine.

All I was saying is for the same money, you could WAY out-build the advertised crawford engine. They're taking advantage of a lack of understanding. As evidenced by the guy who is convinced you need 3K minimum to buy 1200 dollars' worth of parts.

[weederr33]

Originally Posted by Spartarus

Well, you missed the valvetrain and fasteners. I was pretty specific. And what you "need" is relative... Depends on what you're building for, how much boost, and where you want the power band to be. I mentioned earlier in the thread that you can beat quite a bit of power out of an internally unmodified engine.

All I was saying is for the same money, you could WAY out-build the advertised crawford engine. They're taking advantage of a lack of understanding. As evidenced by the guy who is convinced you need 3K minimum to buy 1200 dollars' worth of parts.

I don't care about Crawford. I was more or less confirming things I'd need if I want to build my engine, as that's something I'd like to do.

[Kiske]

I'd go with LJ's built block only because if I'm having a block built Im going to want to have some upgraded top-end parts. Otherwise I'd just do the pistons and rods myself and save a tone of cash.

Also MAPerformance has a built block option too, their turbo kit customers all seem happy with their work.

[weederr33]

Does the FA20 really need a build block? Isn't that one of the strongest parts of our motors?

[kch]

Originally Posted by weederr33

Does the FA20 really need a build block? Isn't that one of the strongest parts of our motors?

When you "build" a motor, it doesn't mean you're necessarily reinforcing the block itself. It usually refers to moving parts like pistons, rods, etc.