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Old 10-02-2015, 12:54 AM   #15
VerusEric
 
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Originally Posted by solidONE View Post
I'd hit it.

Any problem with the bolt and the parking brake cable making contact, particularly with the spacer? looks like there is only a few mm of clearance on the one without spacer. The one with spacer look like you guys pulled it aside to make room.
You are correct. We include a few zip ties to help move the e-brake cable out of the way. Where you can place the e-brake will be determined by amount of drop and wheel/tire size, so each install will be slightly different. We wanted to do a bracket, but that would have doubled the price and we thought if the spacer kit was anymore than it is now, it would not sell. I'm sure a few would but we wanted it to be a normal add on as we believe it to be rather beneficial.

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@NotEric6 I certainly have a better understanding of what the product does and why it would be needed, so thanks for that. However, I guess what I want to know is does lowering change the toe in or out? Or just the affect suspension travel has on toe? To be more specific, I had an alignment done when I was lowered on RCE Yellows and had 1/8" of toe in. I have since installed Tein Flex Z's and am at about 40mm of drop from stock. Did this add or take away any toe in?
You kind of lost me here. Yes, lowering the car changes toe, but you can adjust this out with the OEM unit (up to a certain point) and any toe control link on the market. If you had an 1/8" of toe in, you should have bought adjustable toe links to get a more desirable toe, whether that be these or another company's unit.

The spacer simply helps bring the toe control link back to the way Subaru/Toyota designed the car which helps toe stability as the suspension cycles up and down. The toe control link itself fixes static ride height toe in/out caused by changes elsewhere (lowering and camber changes).
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Old 10-02-2015, 05:57 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by djliquidsteele View Post
@NotEric6 I certainly have a better understanding of what the product does and why it would be needed, so thanks for that. However, I guess what I want to know is does lowering change the toe in or out? Or just the affect suspension travel has on toe? To be more specific, I had an alignment done when I was lowered on RCE Yellows and had 1/8" of toe in. I have since installed Tein Flex Z's and am at about 40mm of drop from stock. Did this add or take away any toe in?
Yes, get it aligned.
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:44 PM   #17
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do you sell little plastic boot to protect the spherical bearing from dirt ?
I sourced some of these boot in the past for my porsche and they were really cheap and very effective in preserving the bearing.

one thing I found annoying on mine in the past, is that I would never know which way I would have to go to unscrew the retaining screw, and if you mess it up, you keep tightening the bolt and can never know which way to turn it to unscrew it

I ended up writing on the link which way is which. would be a nice touch to have these direction etched on the link
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:58 PM   #18
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do you sell little plastic boot to protect the spherical bearing from dirt ?
I sourced some of these boot in the past for my porsche and they were really cheap and very effective in preserving the bearing.
I can ask my rod end rep and see, they may. I have asked multiple rod end manufacturers about this before and have been told a few different things regarding these boots. I will (rough) quote what I heard from an Aurora engineer as that made the most sense to me. To my knowledge Aurora does not even offer these boots for sale. Anyway, what he told me was they boots work great as long as they seal well and do not get punctured. However, when (and it is a when, not an if) the boots stop sealing well, they will actually house water, dirt, salt, etc and cause a much quicker decline of bearing life vs. without a boot. The PTFE liner is designed to protect and keep this grime out of the bearing and when dirt/grime/salt/water can get past the PTFE liner, the bearing should be replaced anyway. Most people don't understand that rod ends/spherical bearings are actually wear items, which have a life expectancy for most manufacturers of 15-25k miles (very subjective to use and application). This is not to say they can't last longer, but after roughly this mileage, slop begins to form in the units and it ultimately is up to the end customer to decide how much slop is too much.

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Originally Posted by philooo View Post
one thing I found annoying on mine in the past, is that I would never know which way I would have to go to unscrew the retaining screw, and if you mess it up, you keep tightening the bolt and can never know which way to turn it to unscrew it

I ended up writing on the link which way is which. would be a nice touch to have these direction etched on the link
Not a bad idea, will look into this for the next production run as it is a tad late now haha. The inboard point (red rod end) is right hand thread, so while looking at that unit, clockwise will shorten the unit, counter clockwise will loosen.
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Old 11-11-2015, 03:47 PM   #19
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Figured I would follow up on this thread and see if anyone has anymore questions regarding the unit since it is somewhat different than everything else on the market due to the ride height correction kit.

Also figured I would throw this out there if anyone has the info... does anyone have on-car measurements of wheel travel vs. toe? We have estimated it in CAD, but have not verified it on car yet.

If not, I plan on taking a few measurements and comparing it to our CAD measurements eventually (when time grows on trees). We won't release the information till we verify on car which is just time consuming.

Thanks in advance if someone is willing to share info!
Eric
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