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Old 02-06-2015, 07:16 PM   #15
MikeyBatz
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Originally Posted by Decay107 View Post
If you intend to keep it stock, go with later than March 2013 build date (its listed on the inside of the door). That way you get the factory tune that fixed (or mostly fixed) the DI seal issue.
Mine was built exactly in march 2013, should I be worried?
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Old 02-06-2015, 07:39 PM   #16
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Mine was built exactly in march 2013, should I be worried?
One way to find out, but a cheap OBD2 adaptor from amazon and check your ECU calibration ID.
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Old 02-06-2015, 09:23 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by MikeyBatz View Post
Mine was built exactly in march 2013, should I be worried?

You want a VIN higher than JF1ZNAA1#D#008792 to have the factory update


If before the update may have been done.
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Old 02-06-2015, 10:00 PM   #18
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For reference, what are they asking for each? It might be worthwhile to spend a little extra for a fresh car with the '15 enhancements a couple here said they can actually feel (driveshaft, suspension mounts, shock tuning, exhaust tips, shark fin, upgraded hpfp) and get lower new car finance rates.

http://autoweek.com/article/car-news...r-s-grows-2015
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Old 02-07-2015, 03:14 AM   #19
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For reference, what are they asking for each? It might be worthwhile to spend a little extra for a fresh car with the '15 enhancements a couple here said they can actually feel (driveshaft, suspension mounts, shock tuning, exhaust tips, shark fin, upgraded hpfp) and get lower new car finance rates.

http://autoweek.com/article/car-news...r-s-grows-2015
For the 2014 about 21,500 plus fees and the 2013 probably around the same maybe a bit less
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