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Old 01-26-2015, 03:12 PM   #15
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Best case would have been to pull over once the alt/bat light came on
that's the best case for the car... not so good case for the driver if he stopped in that area. LOL.

110/105 interchange area is straight hood. thats where you see all them stupid ass donuts and skid marks on the freeways from their stupid ass "crenshaw takeover" bs.
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Old 01-26-2015, 03:29 PM   #16
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that's the best case for the car... not so good case for the driver if he stopped in that area. LOL.

110/105 interchange area is straight hood. thats where you see all them stupid ass donuts and skid marks on the freeways from their stupid ass "crenshaw takeover" bs.
Had a flat just outside downtown Detroit one time.
Needless to say I destroyed a tire and rim!
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Old 01-26-2015, 03:35 PM   #17
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LOL, I feel for you when your in a bad area and don't want to stop... but you drive with the needle pegged in H your going to have a bigger problem (ie cylinder head warpage) more times than not.




Another option for next time is call the police and say your car broke down and your blocking traffic you need a tow truck and assistance immediately.
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Old 01-26-2015, 03:37 PM   #18
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I got stuck in a ditch with my 240sx one time in the mountains, and the tow truck guys for that area were really lazy and didn't want to come, Cop came out and he called it in and told them they better get their ass up their in 20 minutes or he would fine them... sure enough 15 minutes later they showed up LOL.
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Old 01-26-2015, 03:59 PM   #19
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Did you boil the coolant from the overheat? If so you could have easily warped the heads.
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Old 01-26-2015, 04:18 PM   #20
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that's the best case for the car... not so good case for the driver if he stopped in that area. LOL.

110/105 interchange area is straight hood. thats where you see all them stupid ass donuts and skid marks on the freeways from their stupid ass "crenshaw takeover" bs.


I always pictured California to be one big episode of Full House, that sounds rough.
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Old 01-31-2015, 04:31 PM   #21
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I bought another belt (Gates - non-racing) but decided to just slip the OEM one back on since I didn't notice any real damage to it. Also, it is a bit of a pain in the ass to replace the accessory belt because I'd have to remove the Kraftwerks /Rotrex blower assembly to get at and remove/replace the belt. I was careful to ensure the belt was seated properly before cranking. But unfortunately immediately after cranking the engine back up, the accessory belt fell off again. Must be a pulley seizing or misalignment issue. Any further thoughts?
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Old 01-31-2015, 05:17 PM   #22
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Did the tensioner feel weird?
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Old 01-31-2015, 05:21 PM   #23
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...unfortunately immediately after cranking the engine back up, the accessory belt fell off again. Must be a pulley seizing or misalignment issue. Any further thoughts?
Yes. Time to stop guessing and get out the wrenches. That's the only way you're going to get this fixed.
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Old 01-31-2015, 05:31 PM   #24
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Found the problem. It wasn't the tensioner. It was this OEM idler pulley. The right most idler pulley in the figure below.
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Old 01-31-2015, 06:11 PM   #25
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Looks crooked.. Bearing failure? Cross threaded?
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Old 01-31-2015, 06:44 PM   #26
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Bad night for the boosted FRS last night...

Yeah it is crooked. I'm guessing it is bearing failure because of the torque/stress from being adjacent to the crank/supercharger adapter. I don't think it'd be a cross threading issue because I was really careful installing the Kraftwerks bracket onto the engine mount (or in this case is also one of the idler pulley holes).
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Old 02-08-2015, 02:09 AM   #27
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Yeah it is crooked. I'm guessing it is bearing failure because of the torque/stress from being adjacent to the crank/supercharger adapter. I don't think it'd be a cross threading issue because I was really careful installing the Kraftwerks bracket onto the engine mount (or in this case is also one of the idler pulley holes).
i can believe its the adapter and/or engine movement.

if its only the adapter, then the problem could be something that just happens over time with added stress from the kit/adapter.

if its a combination, cusco/perrin/etc. engine mounts might alleviate some of the stress, and maybe it won't happen again.

hopefully it doesn't go out again, but if it does, it probably won't be for a while. either way if it does happen again, and is more frequent than bearing failure on non-SC twins, it might be a useful consideration for other owners in terms of additional maintenance.

out of curiosity, how many miles/how long have you had your kit?
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Old 02-08-2015, 02:57 AM   #28
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i can believe its the adapter and/or engine movement.

if its only the adapter, then the problem could be something that just happens over time with added stress from the kit/adapter.

if its a combination, cusco/perrin/etc. engine mounts might alleviate some of the stress, and maybe it won't happen again.
Wait, how could it be engine movement? Isn't every pulley directly attached to the engine block in some fashion? The engine could do a summersault in the engine bay without putting stress on the belts.

Edit: Motor mounts are a fine upgrade, but no use spending money for the wrong reasons.

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