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Old 09-02-2013, 09:25 AM   #15
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how much are these?
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:45 AM   #16
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how much are these?
$476.91

Sent from my Moto X.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:49 AM   #17
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$476.91

Sent from my Moto X.
Not bad
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Old 09-02-2013, 12:53 PM   #18
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God damn the lca look good to bad they're a unicorn to the common joe!

Any oddities with noise or feel after driving with them?
Car is still on jackstands ATM. Won't be driving it until next weekend as I need to get an alignment done so I don't kill my rear tires. I'll post back once I've driven it for a bit.
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Old 09-18-2013, 02:43 PM   #19
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Ok. So been driving on these for about a week.

I ended up going with -2.5 camber 0 toe in the back to start. I've been told that it may be too much with suggestions of -1.7 to -2 and -1.5. I want to run an AutoX event with it as it sits now to see how it does and then decide if it is too much.

As far as noise, I don't notice much more than the car was already making with the other mods that I had on there.

Two things that you need to be aware of with these parts:
1) The end links are a REALLY tight fit in the LCA. Depending on the tolerances of the LCA and the endlinks, you *might* have to shorten the bolt barrel or eyelet bushings to get them to fit.
2) There are 2 keyed washers for the toe link eyelet where it mounts to the subframe. When you are installing them the washer likes to rotate. If it does the eyelet will float in the subframe and make the car have bumpsteer-like behavior in the rear. Make sure they seat properly when you tighten them up.
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:36 PM   #20
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How much camber do you have in the front. The general rule is to always have more up front then you do in the rear. I'm running -1.9 in the back side to side. and -2.5 in the front.

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Ok. So been driving on these for about a week.

I ended up going with -2.5 camber 0 toe in the back to start. I've been told that it may be too much with suggestions of -1.7 to -2 and -1.5. I want to run an AutoX event with it as it sits now to see how it does and then decide if it is too much.

As far as noise, I don't notice much more than the car was already making with the other mods that I had on there.

Two things that you need to be aware of with these parts:
1) The end links are a REALLY tight fit in the LCA. Depending on the tolerances of the LCA and the endlinks, you *might* have to shorten the bolt barrel or eyelet bushings to get them to fit.
2) There are 2 keyed washers for the toe link eyelet where it mounts to the subframe. When you are installing them the washer likes to rotate. If it does the eyelet will float in the subframe and make the car have bumpsteer-like behavior in the rear. Make sure they seat properly when you tighten them up.
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:50 PM   #21
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How much camber do you have in the front. The general rule is to always have more up front then you do in the rear. I'm running -1.9 in the back side to side. and -2.5 in the front.
Right now I'm -2.75 F -2.5 R.
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:20 AM   #22
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How much camber do you have in the front. The general rule is to always have more up front then you do in the rear. I'm running -1.9 in the back side to side. and -2.5 in the front.
General rule if you are racing and tracking the car I presume?

Say this as well when we lower this car, the back is natural, front thats a different story in getting past -2 camber up front without tophats is well impossible??
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:30 AM   #23
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General rule if you are racing and tracking the car I presume?

Say this as well when we lower this car, the back is natural, front thats a different story in getting past -2 camber up front without tophats is well impossible??
Crash bolts not the oem ones. The white line bolts gave me over -2degrees.
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:37 PM   #24
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Are you experiencing any clunking noises?
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:21 PM   #25
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Are you experiencing any clunking noises?

Me? With the camber bolts no. But a shit ton when i used the whiteline top hats.
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:36 PM   #26
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I haven't got any clunking noise out of the rear at all.

My fronts are still quiet as well.

I put the subie washers on at the same time I replaced my COMCs with a fresh set. I should also note that I've got the whiteline camber bolts, and both front LCA bushings, and RCE springs.
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Old 09-20-2013, 11:49 AM   #27
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Ok. So been driving on these for about a week.

I ended up going with -2.5 camber 0 toe in the back to start. I've been told that it may be too much with suggestions of -1.7 to -2 and -1.5. I want to run an AutoX event with it as it sits now to see how it does and then decide if it is too much.

As far as noise, I don't notice much more than the car was already making with the other mods that I had on there.

Two things that you need to be aware of with these parts:
1) The end links are a REALLY tight fit in the LCA. Depending on the tolerances of the LCA and the endlinks, you *might* have to shorten the bolt barrel or eyelet bushings to get them to fit.
2) There are 2 keyed washers for the toe link eyelet where it mounts to the subframe. When you are installing them the washer likes to rotate. If it does the eyelet will float in the subframe and make the car have bumpsteer-like behavior in the rear. Make sure they seat properly when you tighten them up.
I'm having issues with clunking & rear instability. I'm using stock toe links. I'm trying to visualize your # 2 point & if this may somehow be involved with what's going on...
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:06 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by GTB/ZR-1 View Post
I'm having issues with clunking & rear instability. I'm using stock toe links. I'm trying to visualize your # 2 point & if this may somehow be involved with what's going on...
PM me.
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