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| Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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#15 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
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Quote:
When cold they stop the car just fine, but it's an on-off switch (especially with the stock Michelins). It doesn't take much to engage the ABS. Even so, they are better than the stock pads around town (I really hate the stock pads).
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
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I'll just chime in here with a few tidbits.
1. The Ferodo's rock, I run them on my car (sell them too). 2. I think a 22mm bar (hollow) is the way to go, that's why I build them that way, and you want that on with a stock rear. The 25's and such are just too big. 3. You don't want stiffer rear springs than fronts on this car IMHO. 4. I'm here to help you guys, and to help my business too. I'm up front about it, but the perk is I've got some pretty good, proven experience in driving and setting up cars, particularly RWD cars. ![]() 5. I cannot tell everyone everything. I do run a business, and a lot of us sell the same brands of parts (except my bar, only I have that)... the difference is the kind of detail and support you get from your vendor. I'm not big, I'm not flashy. I'm just a guy with a small business, who knows how to setup autocross cars, and was serious enough about this one that I went out and bought one sight unseen and traded a car I loved for it. 5a. I can't help you setup stuff you get everywhere else, unless you want to talk a consulting fee. I only mention this because at least twice a week I get messages from folks who tell me "I just got KW's, please help me set them up". I can't. That's part of the service you get with the product. I also think the stock pads suck. The feel is terrible. They seemed to have decent bite until the tires were upgraded from the idiotic Michelin's. I've tracked my car multiple days on the same set of DS2500's, I've also driven them all winter (they are on the car right now in fact). |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Sam Strano For This Useful Post: | Anthonytpt (03-29-2013) |
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#17 |
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I would not recommend running our RCE rear bar without the matching front. If you haven't purchased the bars yet, just run the springs with OEM bars for your first event and see how it feels. You'll like the full set though, and you can adjust the rear to match your preferred balance. But running just the rear is going to be too much.
The Ferodos are good pads. EDIT: if you're a kart or open wheel guy that prefers a loose car then I don't doubt that you can "commit" in a corner and oversteer will suit you, BUT even so just the rear bar would be too much IMO. - Andrew |
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#18 |
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Senior Member
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Yeah i would never replace the rear bar only on a rwd car, its not a fwd acura/honda or awd subie that you need help getting the car to rotate. I wouldn't commit to sway bars at all just yet, you may not want to touch the front either if you want to keep it loose.
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#19 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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I'd do a rear bar... but I prefer a looser car
![]() The DS2500 is a great mixed light-duty pad, but if you plan on tracking, you'll be better off stepping up. It only lasts for a few laps at best, even with the AP Racing BBK. |
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#20 | |
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Site Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Quote:
Don't be like me though... unless you like loose wome.. err cars..
__________________
-Dave
Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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