Troubleshooting Header

[Lantanafrs2]

Don't want to jinx it but I've had a used open flash header on my car for 6 yrs with no problem. Yeah, the same open flash company with poor customer service Yada Yada Yada

[alex87f]

Originally Posted by Spuds

It's baaaaack. Necro #2. Ok I'm done messing with this header. I'm just going to replace it with something else. Options:

A. Get someone to weld the current header closed (I am unskilled in welding). Pro: I don't have to make any purchases traceable to my credit card lol. Con: No idea how it's going to turn out, might still suck, might not be possible.

B. Buy a new cheap header. Pro: not too expensive, likely to bolt up with no issues, I know I'm dealing with a new product, typically lower weight, probably be able to get another of the same model once this one wears out and not mess with the tune the second time. Con: I'll be worried about epa tracking me down, longevity?, longevity with wrap?

C. Buy used expensive header. Pro: best performance and construction, and I do like good engineering. Con: I've been down this road before with used headers and look where it's gotten me. Need to wait for one to be available. New eats up too much budget and I've got other stuff I want to do.

D. Buy another used stock header and gut cat/replace cat with pipe. Pro: cheap, stealth, uses stock heat shielding, will probably outlast the engine. Con: lesser performance, most work, would prefer to weld in a collector/pipe but I have no skills to do so.

E: Just put the stock header back on and be sad about it. Pro: $0, easiest, least naughty. Con: least naughty, least performance

I think I'm leaning towards B or D. Any experience or opinions to help me figure out what to do here? My county does not require smog testing, I intend to leave the stock catted front pipe for now. Might get a higher flow FP in the future. Stock catback for now, but that may also change.

Have you thought about option F: Permatex copper on all slip fittings? It might be a bit close to the block (i.e. too hot) for the product, but it might hold OK. Then again, I don't think your issue is due to header leak.

I haven't tracked my -stock- 86 in a long time, but I can't remember the hood being overly hot. Despite it being a black car.

Or option G: get an infrared thermometer, measure temp at a few reference points, put stock header back on, measure, compare. Run coated header with stock tune, measure as well, compare.

Also, one of the stock PIDs is cat temp, does it still read anything if you remove the cat? How's that data collected anyway?

[Espi]

Originally Posted by Spuds

It's baaaaack. Necro #2. Ok I'm done messing with this header. I'm just going to replace it with something else. Options:

A. Get someone to weld the current header closed (I am unskilled in welding). Pro: I don't have to make any purchases traceable to my credit card lol. Con: No idea how it's going to turn out, might still suck, might not be possible.

B. Buy a new cheap header. Pro: not too expensive, likely to bolt up with no issues, I know I'm dealing with a new product, typically lower weight, probably be able to get another of the same model once this one wears out and not mess with the tune the second time. Con: I'll be worried about epa tracking me down, longevity?, longevity with wrap?

C. Buy used expensive header. Pro: best performance and construction, and I do like good engineering. Con: I've been down this road before with used headers and look where it's gotten me. Need to wait for one to be available. New eats up too much budget and I've got other stuff I want to do.

D. Buy another used stock header and gut cat/replace cat with pipe. Pro: cheap, stealth, uses stock heat shielding, will probably outlast the engine. Con: lesser performance, most work, would prefer to weld in a collector/pipe but I have no skills to do so.

E: Just put the stock header back on and be sad about it. Pro: $0, easiest, least naughty. Con: least naughty, least performance

I think I'm leaning towards B or D. Any experience or opinions to help me figure out what to do here? My county does not require smog testing, I intend to leave the stock catted front pipe for now. Might get a higher flow FP in the future. Stock catback for now, but that may also change.

Well if you decide to go with C - I'm selling a used JDL gesi catted header EPA compliant and rated for up to 500 HP. https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...d.php?t=154119

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by Espi

Well if you decide to go with C - I'm selling a used JDL gesi catted header EPA compliant and rated for up to 500 HP. https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...d.php?t=154119

Thanks for the heads up, but I'm not interested in uel catted.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by alex87f

Have you thought about option F: Permatex copper on all slip fittings? It might be a bit close to the block (i.e. too hot) for the product, but it might hold OK. Then again, I don't think your issue is due to header leak.

I haven't tracked my -stock- 86 in a long time, but I can't remember the hood being overly hot. Despite it being a black car.

Or option G: get an infrared thermometer, measure temp at a few reference points, put stock header back on, measure, compare. Run coated header with stock tune, measure as well, compare.

Also, one of the stock PIDs is cat temp, does it still read anything if you remove the cat? How's that data collected anyway?

I've thought about F, but I think direct contact with exhaust gasses is likely to exceed the temperature rating.

I am 100% sure it's leaking, and 90% sure that's the heat problem. Sitting at a red light I can watch the stft and ltft start creeping up, then run the AC to turn the fans on and watch the trims slowly come back down. Heat is dumped out the right side wheel well.

G is probably what I should do, but that seems like a lot of work to confirm something I'm already pretty sure of at this point lol.

Interesting about the cat temp PID. I can look into that.