New BRZ - how long to wait before rippn it on the track

[TommyW]

Here is a link that discusses the subject in detail. Watch the video.


https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...ak-in-new-car/

[DarkSunrise]

The break-in period is also for the clutch. You want some gentle miles to ensure there is a nice transfer of friction material.

[NoHaveMSG]

You guys think that race teams run them gently for a few thousand miles to break them in before taking them to the track? It doesn't take that much to seat the rings.

I used to build a lot of engines for local racers when I worked at the motorcycle shop. I am talking 450's and 250's with 10-12k in parts and head work. They got a few heat cycles, a torque check, a quick blast out back, and were promptly smashed on Engines with steel liners where given a little more intensive break-in, but not much.

[wolffbite]

Many schools of thought on engine break-ins, no 100% correct answer.

For maintaining your warranty (if it matters to you), I would suggest following the break-in guide in your manual:



Personally, I babied it for 1600km before ripping on it at all. I also did an oil change after break-in... again not required or noted in the manual but I've always done that (so has my dad) and our family has never experienced an engine failure and tend to keep our cars 10+ years minimum.

At the end of the day just do what makes you the most comfortable.

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

You guys think that race teams run them gently for a few thousand miles to break them in before taking them to the track? It doesn't take that much to seat the rings.

I used to build a lot of engines for local racers when I worked at the motorcycle shop. I am talking 450's and 250's with 10-12k in parts and head work. They got a few heat cycles, a torque check, a quick blast out back, and were promptly smashed on Engines with steel liners where given a little more intensive break-in, but not much.

It's 500 not several thousand and not sure if motorcycles with random mechanics will transfer to cars straight across the board. I would err on the side of being conservative with an expensive machine. Much more solid info on proper break in than info to the contrary.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by TommyW

It's 500 not several thousand and not sure if motorcycles with random mechanics will transfer to cars straight across the board. I would err on the side of being conservative with an expensive machine. Much more solid info on proper break in than info to the contrary.

There are multiple schools of thought on break in. A lot of it translates about the same depending on some factors, piston type(cast, forged) and liner type(sleave, coated bore). What do you think break in accomplishes? Do you really think it takes 500 miles to seat a set of rings? A lot of what you read in the owners manual is a lawyer band-aid.

[nikitopo]

Manual instructions are not only for the brake-in of the engine, but for the brake-in of ALL the parts of the car.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

Manual instructions are not only for the brake-in of the engine, but for the brake-in of ALL the parts of the car.

I'd say this is a more valid reason then being worried about the engine. But at the same time, how long do you think it takes for wear surfaces in the diff and transmission to bed in? Same with the clutch.

[nextcar]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

Manual instructions are not only for the brake-in of the engine, but for the brake-in of ALL the parts of the car.

^^This^^

Will you destroy anything by driving hard off the lot? No.

But as other have mentioned, it is not just the engine you are breaking in. Literally every part of the drive train benefits from a break in - as well as the brakes. It is not like the old days of flat tappet cams where you could destroy the engine, but almost all friction interfaces benefit from heat cycling. Things like differential gears won't fail, but might be a bit noisier if abused before heat cycling.

Do professional racers break in engines? No. But they also tear down their engines regularly, and they also pay far more attention to clearances than a factory assembled engine.

Lack of a break in probably won't contribute to component failure within warranty in a modern car, but many manufacturers actually enforce break in with their ECUs so it must be measurable over a large enough population.

[ls1ac]

Interesting comments.
A perfectly built race engine should run like hell during the race and fail on the way to the winners circle.
We used to drive the snot out of a new engine to see if a rod or main bearing would fail. Better to know before a race than half way through. Now we use an engine dyno. Remember everything on the race engine is checked and rechecked before during and after assembly. {Only able to do this when someone else is sponsoring you.}

A gentle break-in is a better way to get everything seated for a long life. Car manufacturers will be wanting a gentle method for obvious reasons. I do know a few guys that run them hard figuring that if it brakes it is under warrantee. Today that is not as good an idea as many computers now record how you have driven the car.

[SUSPECT_BRZ]

I wasn't aware there was an actual break-in period in the owners manual but was aware cars shouldn't be driven too hard coming off the lot. I did drive a little bit spirited on a few occasions but since seeing this post I will shift at 4k instead of 5k. I have 900KMs on the car now and car already feel the transmission shifting smoother. Thanks for the useful information.

[TommyW]

The NSX is one of the few cars that are pre broken in that you can take from the showroom to the track. That dyno break in isn't cheap so you won't find it often

Bottom line is if you care about longevity you'll break it in properly. Some cars\trucks with low rpm ranges don't really need to worry about it though.

[SUSPECT_BRZ]

Originally Posted by TommyW

The NSX is one of the few cars that are pre broken in that you can take from the showroom to the track. That dyno break in isn't cheap so you won't find it often

Bottom line is if you care about longevity you'll break it in properly. Some cars\trucks with low rpm ranges don't really need to worry about it though.

With this car you really have to focus to shift at a lower range. I guess it's a question of habit. On the other hand I'm sure a few high revving shifts won't damage the engine components.

When you think about it, any car on the lot which has been test driven has suffered some kind of early "abuse".

[TommyW]

Originally Posted by SUSPECT_BRZ

With this car you really have to focus to shift at a lower range. I guess it's a question of habit. On the other hand I'm sure a few high revving shifts won't damage the engine components.

When you think about it, any car on the lot which has been test driven has suffered some kind of early "abuse".

I remember when I bought my 911 Twin Turbo the salesman said to keep it below 150 on the test drive.