DIY: Greddy Oil Cooler Install

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by TylerLieberman

Just to verify, you’re saying Teflon tape on the 3 very small hex screws located on the sensor port adapter in this picture?

Yes, teflon tape on every fitting and line.

[MJones_RB]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Yes, teflon tape on every fitting and line.

Funny that some people think teflon tape is a sealant, keeping fittings from leaking. It's really just a lubricant that allows the parts to seat properly and easier to take apart.

[TylerLieberman]

Got mine on. Fits nicely behind the 17+ bumper

[IMG]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50230798653_dc92***13a_b.jpg[/IMG]

The only thing I will say though... is that I found it to be 1000x easier to mount the lines going to the cooler prior to bolting it into place on the bracket. I went with the initial order of instructions, but I didn't see any real way to properly access the fitting directly behind/under the crash bar/bumper support. So I removed the cooler from the car, left the bracket, installed the lines, and then remounted the cooler to the bracket and went from there. So long as the lines are clocked correctly when tigthened, there's no issue.

[Iceman]

Very nice! I wish I had this post when I fitted mine.

[MoarGeesPlease]

Nice write up. Love that color and wish I had found one before the blue one I bought.

3 notes and a question:
I need to try your method of mounting the ambient temp sensor. I put mine as far from the oil cooler as I could and it reads wicked high. Outdoor temps 80 to 120 no matter what on the dash now. Can’t use my auto temp interior climate control because of it. Maybe it needs to be in direct airflow or something.

I’ve found the EJ motors oil filters for the current gen STI bolt up nicely (M1-108a, Mobil 1 filter see photo). Not sure if it’s better sized than the one you mention above (I think it’s smaller than the Greddy) but it is much easier to find at your local store than special ordering the Greddy filter and will be around longer than any 90’s era motor part.

For shits and giggles I installed this sandwich adapter plate on TOP of my Forester XT oil cooler sandwich plate to see if it would work (see photo, it adds about 2.25 inches in height). It baaarely clears my hood and the hoses make contact with the high pressure A/C line AND I had to put aside the oil sensor port adapter for the left/front hose. It was just too tall, but I’m told there’s a way to get oil temp and pressure elsewhere so I left it out entirely. I put some electrical wire wraps around the part of the oil cooler lines that makes contact with the A/C line so it wouldn’t rub on the woven material (see photo). The tops of the lines leave the slightest of indents in my hood insulation (BRZ not FRS), so I kept it. Best of both types? Either way, currently running both oil coolers, 8 or so track days no leaks no issues.

...Have yet to figure out how to properly drain the cooler of oil during an oil change. Just using the normal drain plug, and replacing the same amount of oil as before despite the extra capacity afforded by the cooler. I don’t want to try having the car on but engine not running (I assume this means the oil pump is running) for fear of running the oil pump dry/losing prime. Any advice?






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[TwinFTW]

This guide is great @JBezgus! Much easier than attempting to Google translate the JDM instructions.

Just finished my install and wanted to add my notes to the hive mind here:

Originally Posted by JBezugs

The same can be done on the right side of the cooler, however instead of the U-bracket in the middle, there is an S-shaped bracket that needs to be mounted on the top of the cooler.

-----

The “S” bracket bolt order needed to be different than the "U" bracket bolt order in order to match your S bracket picture and the Greddy JDM picture, I went with:

Bolt
Bracket
Duct
Washer
Cooler
Lock washer
Nut


--------

Other Install notes:

I made a trip to home depot for *high temp* electrical tape to re-wrap the wires after splitting off the ambient temp probe from the stock loom. I used 3M Super 88 electrical tape, because I know it works... I’ve had cheap electrical tape turn to goo in high temp applications in the past. Definitely worth the extra dollar or two.

I ended up not thinking I needed the washer neck relocation bracket, after I clocked the hose to filter connections.

There was enough extra loom for the oil hose that I was able to trim some off of the main runs and add it to a section of the hose in the engine bay which looked like it could potentially rub on the metal fitting of the AC hardline. I was still able to cover the runs in front of the radiator past the duct with the loom as well. I'll see about uploading a picture of this.

The double zip tie spacing technique worked out great.

I went with 2-3 wraps of teflon tape on all fittings. No leaks or weeping at all after doing several laps of my test loop run.

It takes roughly twice as long to come up to temp (in September California ~65 degree F ambient weather) and held rock solid at a hair over the 190 F line on the stock dash gauge.

I added a little more than 1L of new oil along with a FRAM XG4386 filter and the dipstick was indicating just a tiny bit lower after my test run. I’d estimate 1.2L of additional oil to get to the same spot on the dipstick. (as measured 5 minutes after shutdown both times)

I had one question come up during the install and CSG was very quick to respond to it. Great service, fast shipping, I'm a happy customer.

[omegared19]

Possible ignorant question regarding oil sensors:

So I already have the non-oil cooler Greddy sandwich plate as I'm running an oil temp and oil pressure sensor there. Am I correct that the oil cooler sandwich plate will replace it and I can fit the sensors into where the lower gold colored bolts are? There's a sensor adaptor for the left side hose. Will I be using that instead? Is there a better place to install either sensor?

[JBezugs]

Originally Posted by omegared19

Possible ignorant question regarding oil sensors:

So I already have the non-oil cooler Greddy sandwich plate as I'm running an oil temp and oil pressure sensor there. Am I correct that the oil cooler sandwich plate will replace it and I can fit the sensors into where the lower gold colored bolts are? There's a sensor adaptor for the left side hose. Will I be using that instead? Is there a better place to install either sensor?

I believe you could do either or; either use the sensor adapter that’s comes with the oil cooler on the left side hose, or, use the lower bungs to put your current oil temp and pressure sensors M18 bolts in since they use the same 1/8PT fittings for the sensors.

Which way would be preferential? I’d think using the oil-cooler sensor adapter, so you’re getting your pressure and temperature information on the same side, post-cooler core, rather than getting one reading pre-core and one post-core. However I’ll defer to those more knowledgeable than me to confirm, as I only use the built in oil temp gauge and OEM sensor on my 17, and don’t have any external pressure sensor at the moment.

[omegared19]

Originally Posted by JBezugs

I believe you could do either or; either use the sensor adapter that’s comes with the oil cooler on the left side hose, or, use the lower bungs to put your current oil temp and pressure sensors M18 bolts in since they use the same 1/8PT fittings for the sensors.

Which way would be preferential? I’d think using the oil-cooler sensor adapter, so you’re getting your pressure and temperature information on the same side, post-cooler core, rather than getting one reading pre-core and one post-core. However I’ll defer to those more knowledgeable than me to confirm, as I only use the built in oil temp gauge and OEM sensor on my 17, and don’t have any external pressure sensor at the moment.

Thinking out loud, but maybe using one in the adapter, and one below the AN fitting in an effort to maintain as much consistency as possible.

Though I have also heard of (and admittedly need to do more research into) putting the oil pressure sensor into the top of the block.

[SuperSub7]

super informative and super helpful op - saved for future reference and sharing!

[hachi roku [86]]

Do you guys know what this part is and where it needs to be relocated? Seems to be missing from both Greddy’s original instructions and the write up above

[omegared19]

Originally Posted by hachi roku [86]

Do you guys know what this part is and where it needs to be relocated? Seems to be missing from both Greddy’s original instructions and the write up above

I noticed it missing on my US spec vehicle as well. Could this be the Euro Spec ambient temp sensor? Also, will the bracket still fit there or is this piece in the way?

[hachi roku [86]]

Originally Posted by omegared19

I noticed it missing on my US spec vehicle as well. Could this be the Euro Spec ambient temp sensor? Also, will the bracket still fit there or is this piece in the way?

I got info from a FB group: so it is a DRL (day running light) resistor that can be relocated pretty much anywhere where the wire can reach.

Mine is a USDM FRS from 2014, base spec (I imported it from the US)

[hachi roku [86]]

Here’s my own solution: