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| BRZ First-Gen (2012+) — General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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#15 |
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LOL. I drove truck for a long time and shifted them without using a clutch, as that's how its done. I used the rev limiter seldom but it worked quite well. I had motorcycles as well and some of them limit shifted really nicely, off the limiter.
The post is certainly tongue in cheek as syncromeshed transmissions don't like no clutch shifting much, but I have done it anyway with several cars. Its hard to make em' shift well. Certainly the limiter will be beyond the top of any power range, but the point of the exercise is to come into the next gear at a good point to lay down power. |
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#16 |
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inb4 lol power
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#17 |
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#18 |
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I'm puzzled how a rev limiter has anything to do with any kind of shifting.
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#19 |
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not playing cards
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Get a decent oil cooler. Don't cheap out.
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#20 | |
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Quote:
I'm still a little leery of the argument in the second paragraph, I understand maximizing the area under the curve but my experience on track suggests otherwise. Do you have empirical support for that assertion.
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#21 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
What makes a car accelerate? Forward force applied at the rear tire contact patches. This force is a direct function of engine power, NOT engine torque which has to be multiplied by gear ratios to get rear wheel torque, and so depends on what transmission gear you are in. Power is torque multiplied by rpm, and it is also force multiplied by velocity. 1 horsepower is 550 lb*ft/s. Forward thrust in pounds at a given speed is rwhp multiplied by 550 lb*ft/s divided by speed in ft/s. Say you're at the track at 7000rpm in 3rd gear in a '13-16 FT86, making stockish 173 rwhp. 7000rpm, 1.541 3rd gear, 4.1 diff, 24.7" tire diameter => 119.4 ft/sec. Forward thrust at the ground is 173rwhp * 550 lb*ft/s per hp divided by 119.4ft/sec = 797 lb. This is equivalent to running the *engine* torque through the gear ratios and dividing by tire diameter to get thrust at the rear wheels: 173rwhp at 7000rpm => torque = 173hp*5252/5700 = 130 lb-ft 130 lb-ft * 1.541 (3rd gear ratio) * 4.1 (diff ratio) = 820 lb-ft torque at rear wheels, divide by the tire radius or (24.7"/2) = 1.03 ft = 796 lb. Same result ignoring small roundoff error. If you upshift NOW, at peak power at 7000rpm, you land in 4th gear at 7000*1.213/1.541 = 5510rpm. Power at 5510rpm is about 148rwhp, engine torque 141 lb-ft. So you're now operating with greater engine torque than you were at 7000 rpm, BUT torque at the engine is not what matters! Thrust or torque *at the wheels* is what matters... Thrust force at contact patches is 148hp * 550 lb-ft/sec per hp divided by 119.4ft/s = 682 lb. of thrust, quite a bit less than in 3rd at 7000rpm... Or calculating torque at wheels, 141 lb-ft * 1.213 * 4.1 = 701 lb-ft, significantly less than the 820 lb-ft in 3rd gear at 7000rpm. 701 lb-ft divided by tire radius of 1.03 ft = 681 lb. thrust (same as above calculation using rwhp and road speed) Alternatively, winding it out past peak power rpm up to 7400rpm redline before upshifting to 4th: At 7400rpm, power has fallen to 158rwhp, speed is now 126.2 ft/s Thrust at contact patches = 158rwhp * 550 lb-ft/s per hp divided by 26.2 ft/s = 688 lb. Or calculating from engine torque (158*5252/7400) = 112 lb-ft, way less torque at the engine, but again that's not what matters! 112 lb-ft * 1.541 * 4.1 = 708 lb-ft at the rear wheels divided by 1.03 ft tire radius = 688 lb. Upshifting to 4th at 7400rpm puts you at 5825rpm, at about 155rwhp (140 lb-ft). Note this is still a drop from the 158rwhp you were making in 3rd gear at 7400, so thrust still drops a bit, from 688 lb. to 676 lb. Torque at the wheels is 140*1.213*4.1 = 696 lb-ft TL/DR: Between 81mph and 86mph (119.4 ft/s and 126.2 ft/s), you can either have 681 -> 676 lb. of thrust in 4th gear, or 797 -> 688 lb. thrust in 3rd. Or in terms of actual rear-wheel torque, you can have 701 -> 696 lb-ft at the wheels in 4th gear, or 820 -> 708 lb-ft of torque at the wheels in 3rd. More torque at the road wheels, more accelerative force if you keep it in 3rd all the way to redline... Ideally you'd want to rev a bit higher than this even, such that you land at the same power level at lower rpm in the taller gear. For best acceleration in this car, you'll want to rev to redline in every gear. fwiw here's the rwhp dyno numbers I used in the above calcs:
Last edited by ZDan; 04-14-2020 at 02:04 AM. |
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#22 |
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Exactly. For just about any naturally aspirated sports car you will want to shift at redline for maximum acceleration. Older cars and some pushrods are exception.
BRZ/FRS definitely needs to be taken to redline.
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