Weak studs?

[xdavidx]

[QUOTE=NoHaveMSG;3203570]If you are using close to stock length you can do it in minutes with a tool like this.


You weak studs with stock length do it in only minutes with your tools?



Sounds like you should be driving a porsche

[Decep]

ive had a couple break on me so far. have never had an issue with any other cars i've ever had. if it keeps happening i will definitely upgrade the studs.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by xdavidx

If you are using close to stock length you can do it in minutes with a tool like this.


You weak studs with stock length do it in only minutes with your tools?



Sounds like you should be driving a porsche

Huh? I mean, english is my second language but I have no idea what you are saying.

[khrono]

+1 on weak oem studs. I've had to replace around 7 total with maybe 10 mounts/dismounts. Interestingly, when I used to use a 12V impact driver to loosen and tighten, I had 0 issues. The problems began when I started to use a breaker bar. I probably over tightened it to be honest. I have replaced 5 of the 7 with the brass looking ones from the local auto parts store. The remaining two recently broke and I replaced with ARP studs as I have the full set waiting in my trunk.

I've been using a torque wrench to tighten them now, but I feel like the breaker bar is the culprit.

The tie rod puller device with a nut and washers makes the stud change super fast like other poster mentioned.

[Phuviano]

Originally Posted by the new guy

Replacing the fronts are relatively easy but the rears are a PITA that involves taking off the wheel hub.

Nah, you don't need to take off the hub. I changed a rear one last week. You just need to rotate the hub to certain spot, where an oem length stud will have just enough space to fit in.

Now if were taking about extended studs, then yes you'll have to take off the rear hub.

[Westen86]

YES! I was a lube tech with Toyota and in 6mo I personally broke about 3 studs with an impact or breaker bar taking them off. (About half the FRS/86 that came for service) I havent broken my own yet. I recommend at least coating them in anti-seize or that copper grease like I did. The nuts are always gritty and never spin smoothly. The best method I found was seating them with a small electric and torquing them to spec.

[mrha]

I upgraded to ichiba extended studs and let me tell you something. After 6 years of use I ended up spinning a stud! The damn hub mounting hole was completely worn through allowing the stud to spin in place with the lug still on (lug was seized). I used a dremel to saw the lug off but I also ended up damaging my rim. I think I rather have had the stud break off then go through that again.

[PWBRZ]

After breaking a couple I just switched them all out to ARP studs and Gorilla lugs - no prob since. Sounds obvious but I think a key procedure, whether using stock or aftermarket, is to make sure the nuts and especially studs are really clean- it’s real easy to get small bits of aluminum on the studs when putting the wheels back on.


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