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Old 01-15-2019, 10:07 AM   #15
cjd
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As a general guideline, stiffening only the rear makes it want to step out more.


I have a stiffer front (strano) and softer rear (Mann) for autox. Also 8k springs ((or wherever I land this year) and a proper performance alignment (>-3 front camber). And autox tires...



It's a system your tweaking. If it's not balanced right, it's just as frustrating.


Also, body roll is fine. Relatively speaking. It's a sign your suspension is working.
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:57 AM   #16
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Negative camber front will shift grip bias to front vs stock. Yes, it's common performance alignment way .. but is that what OP asked? He didn't want more cornering speed (also it's "canyon runs", on public roads with all the speed limits, not track), didn't stated that wants less understeer .. just less roll vs current setup.
I'm also in camp, that even stock roll of twins doesn't impact handling/performance in bad way (mx-5 for example rolls way more .. but again it doesn't seem excessive or keeping from turning fast .. rather just signals more about mass transfer to driver) .. it's just that probably driver may lack confidence pushing it and possibly less roll in this case will just add subjective placebo confidence to push more, not actually "improve" car capabilities (or rather opposite - reduce max grip due less independent suspension). I'd think of doing something with roll only in case of going to much-much grippier tires, thus more side-Gs and noticeably more roll. If it's on stock primacies or "normal" tires, swaybars better left alone. Here - free money on unnecessary mods saved
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Old 01-15-2019, 12:22 PM   #17
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As is usually the case, a simple request for a minor suspension tweak for street driving has progressed/degraded into how to build max effort competition suspension...lol
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Old 01-15-2019, 03:30 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by BlueWhelan View Post
I know you're just providing a general guideline, but I'd like to clarify for anyone reading that an increase in diameter does not equal a proportional increase in stiffness. Always check the stiffness quoted by the manufacture when choosing a bar, instead of basing it of mm of diameter. Stiffness is determined by a multitude of things in addition to overall diameter, including thickness of bar inner wall, metal composition, spring shape (blade vs. tube) and the number and angle of bends in the bar from side to side. Specs can vary wildly for this reason, even among bars that appear identical, so again always check the manufactures specs.
Of course, and that’s why I’m glad we have the “sway bar option list” thread that lists out the stiffness for most bars.

Just like how a 16mm front non-adj Cusco bar is STIFFER than the stock 18mm.

For anyone wondering, if you want to get the 18/16 setup to the same ratio as 18/14, you will need a front bar that is 70% stiffer.
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Old 01-15-2019, 06:43 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by stlgrym3 View Post
basically less body roll, but i guess every sway bar does that. when i had my Lexus IS350 i was told to only install the rear sway bar as the front does nothing for handling, but now i'm hearing the opposite for the 86.
Whoever told you that bit of info about the IS350 and front bar knows nothing.

If you're just looking for less body roll and really nothing else, I would recommend just a slightly larger front bar, like a Strano 22mm front bar (hollow) or maybe a Whiteline 20mm front bar. This is considering you have fairly mild tires and you're not driving in a high transition environment, like autox.

You'll feel the difference at street speeds. It'll make you feel good. That seems to be what OP is really looking for.

I would recommend against changing spring rates and dampers if the goal is to reduce roll. That will affect ride more than anything. As someone wise once told me, "They don't call it 'anti-roll' springs now do they, but they do make 'anti-roll bars'."
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Old 01-15-2019, 08:25 PM   #20
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I like the Hotchkis ARB's, since they are adjustable, you can tune to your liking.
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Old 01-17-2019, 09:43 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFRichZC6 View Post
I would recommend against changing spring rates and dampers if the goal is to reduce roll. That will affect ride more than anything. As someone wise once told me, "They don't call it 'anti-roll' springs now do they, but they do make 'anti-roll bars'."

I would recommend not making any modifications to reduce body roll without knowing exactly why it's bad in the specific use case. It's not always bad to have some body roll, and too much stiffness in either bump or roll can reduce mechanical grip.


OP, unless you have some good data to show you actually have too much body roll, I'd just leave the car alone and enjoy driving it.
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Old 01-17-2019, 11:59 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wparsons View Post
I would recommend not making any modifications to reduce body roll without knowing exactly why it's bad in the specific use case. It's not always bad to have some body roll, and too much stiffness in either bump or roll can reduce mechanical grip.


OP, unless you have some good data to show you actually have too much body roll, I'd just leave the car alone and enjoy driving it.
I used to have a link to a good article that explained why roll, ie weight transfer, is good. Since body roll causes weight transfer, you lose weight and grip on the inside tires, but gain more grip on the outside tires, but this is to a point of diminishing returns...wish I still had that link. Maybe it's in Millikan?
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