Is it worth it to spend money on bolt on and custom tune on an AT?

[ATaraxias]

Originally Posted by stlgrym3

For those AT owners out there, do u think spending upwards around 2k for bolt ons and a stage 2 custome tune is worth the $$$? Or should we just save up for FI? Power gains on an auto twin without FI is minimum compare to MT cars. Any thoughts?

I've got a dyno sheet for an AT with full stage2 UEL & E85. It is a 45 degree line from launch to redline with no torque dip and nearly 200WHP.


This conversion costs less than $1500 in total. FI that won't grenade your engine costs between five and ten grand.


I don't know why you are even comparing the two solutions.

[stlgrym3]

Originally Posted by ATaraxias

I've got a dyno sheet for an AT with full stage2 UEL & E85. It is a 45 degree line from launch to redline with no torque dip and nearly 200WHP.


This conversion costs less than $1500 in total. FI that won't grenade your engine costs between five and ten grand.


I don't know why you are even comparing the two solutions.

I just ordered Tomei EL header today. I’m ready go the similar route.

[86TOYO2k17]

Something being worth it is personal opinion/preference. Do you want to be faster and more fun to drive then you currently are? Do you want to make the same percentage gains as a manual? Then mod it. Become the fastest auto on the street beating stock/lightly modded manuals.

As far as mods, I would build up to FI with individually “cheap” supporting mods.

If you plan turbo get a frontpipe/catback, 4.3-4.556 FD and oft or ecutek. If you are going supercharger. You can get same mods plus a header. If you won’t go FI for a few years add in a grimmspeed intake. If you are never going FI you could do a more aggressive Fd 4.88-5.7 depending on how you drive and what you expect.

Personally i have a auto with grimmspeed intake, BPB, ace 250 header, double res Frontpipe, stock catback (will get CSG MXP catback eventually) Running stage 2+ OFT although purchased a custome e-tune still waiting on. And I have a auto factory 4.5fd coming from Japan soon. I may run 6-8psi boost on innovate charger in a few years. Undecided atm. Also have 225/45 tires on 17x8 rims. Every mod has been a noticeable improvement. Car actually “feels fast” now and once I get e-tune + 4.5fd I should be satisfied for now.

[nikitopo]

Originally Posted by Doozer

Auto with 5.1 FD (stock diff), e85 Delicious Tune and Header.
All chassis bushings PU

This was related basically with the driver tune. Or should I say non-tuned?

[Cole]

Originally Posted by Dr. BRZ

A fbo e85 AT will lose to a MT stock e85. AT are not worth modding NA unless you do a final drive change and if not, save money and get a turbo.

Explain why it's not worth it.

You keep spewing the same drivel in every thread about modding ATs, yet never have anything to say other than it still being slower than the MT.

In what way will it lose to a stock MT, that's something else you've never quantified in all of your idiotic postings, either.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Cole

Explain why it's not worth it.

You keep spewing the same drivel in every thread about modding ATs, yet never have anything to say other than it still being slower than the MT.

In what way will it lose to a stock MT, that's something else you've never quantified in all of your idiotic postings, either.

Sheesh.....


humfrz

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by Cole

Explain why it's not worth it.

You keep spewing the same drivel in every thread about modding ATs, yet never have anything to say other than it still being slower than the MT.

In what way will it lose to a stock MT, that's something else you've never quantified in all of your idiotic postings, either.

MT will be faster then AT. Much better gear spacing, roughly 2% less drivetrain loss, slightly faster shifting capabilities, and launching/launch control.

However despite the MT having its advantages it still doesn’t mean the AT isn’t worth modding. They will both receive the same percentage increase of HP/torque from each mod, with the AT potentially getting a better acceleration increase from a FD swap compared to the MT doing same mod.

There are many reasons to choose a Mt over AT and also AT over MT depends on personal preference. Whichever someone chooses there is no harm in them wanting to be the fastest and funnest version of their car they can be.

[Cole]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

MT will be faster then AT. Much better gear spacing, roughly 2% less drivetrain loss, slightly faster shifting capabilities, and launching/launch control.

However despite the MT having its advantages it still doesn’t mean the AT isn’t worth modding. They will both receive the same percentage increase of HP/torque from each mod, with the AT potentially getting a better acceleration increase from a FD swap compared to the MT doing same mod.

There are many reasons to choose a Mt over AT and also AT over MT depends on personal preference. Whichever someone chooses there is no harm in them wanting to be the fastest and funnest version of their car they can be.

Again, in what real world situation does it make the car faster? From a dig, from a roll, around a track, down a drag strip? Need to quantify the statement, since it's not true for every situation.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

MT will be faster then AT. Much better gear spacing, roughly 2% less drivetrain loss, slightly faster shifting capabilities, and launching/launch control.

I was just looking at some log data from my MT and when I'm sifting as fast as possible it looks like it takes about 225ms to go 2nd to 3rd and 300ms to go 1st to 2nd. Other gears would be slower, I didn't check. It's easier to shift some gears faster than others. At least for me anyways. Shifting fast from 4th to 5th is the most awkward. Probably do to the fact that you don't get as much practice in the higher gears. I would list them in this order from fastest to slowest:
2 - 3
1 - 2
3 - 4
5 - 6
4 - 5
1 - R Hehe

I'm curious what log data shows for a shift in an AT. Note that my measurements don't include the time it would take for my arm to reach down and grab the shifter. Typically a shift is anticipated so your hand will reach down to the shifter before hand. But on a race track mid turn it isn't always practical to have your hand down there ready for a shift. In that case you would short shift, bounce the limiter or lift a tad. This is where an AT could have an advantage because it's right at your fingertips.

Even if the AT had a technical advantage it still doesn't have the same fun factor IMO. But in the context of this thread. I say hell yeah it's worth spending money to make the AT faster. Even if in the end you don't spend enough to make it as fast as a stock MT. It would still be faster than a stock AT so why not.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by Cole

Again, in what real world situation does it make the car faster? From a dig, from a roll, around a track, down a drag strip? Need to quantify the statement, since it's not true for every situation.

First off I want to make sure I am 100% clear Incase people can’t read... The AT is just as “worth it” to mod as an MT is. They will both see the same percentage of gains/increases. And the AT may respond better in real world I.E 0-60, 0-100, 1/4mile track times etc.

Aside from the reasons I already mentioned as to how an MT is faster, it has already been proven to have faster 0-60, 0-100, 1/4mile, and track times. The reason it has faster times
You can reference my other post.

Now take the 0-60 time MT is roughly 6.4 and AT is roughly 7.4. (Drivers and conditions vary) however full bolt ons MTs are doing 5.9 maybe 5.7 on E85. So roughly 10% quicker. And AT will be roughly 10% quicker as well which is a larger numerical number. And the AT also respond better to a final drive upgrade in improving 0-60 and 0-90 times (again this depends on what FD)

[stlgrym3]

What are some of the popular final drive upgrade options for the AT?

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by stlgrym3

What are some of the popular final drive upgrade options for the AT?

It depends on a lot of factors. Typically 4.88-5.7 for N/A maybe stock to 4.67 for FI
Here is the gear ratios
http://toyotanews.pressroom.toyota.c...tions.download
Here is a calculator you can play around with tire size/final drive. Also raise rev limiter.
http://www.zealautowerks.com/transcalc.php
Typically you decide what your goal is and choose a set up that puts you at the top of a gear at that speed.
For example stock wheels with 4.1fd at 7400 rpm in 2nd is like 64mph. Go to 225/45r17 with 7600rpm you are at 66mph. If you wanted fastest 0-60 I believe 4.44 puts you at I think 61.5mph in 2nd and 90 in 3rd. 4.5 is like 60 and 89. 5.7 is super aggressive but let’s you hit I think 99 in 4th making 4th very usable. All depends on situations and goals.