Aim solo 2/solo2 dl

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Brzerker

I bought the aim solo 2 with the promise of the ios app for data analysis capabilities.

Their website touted that it's coming soon, i am wondering how much sooner would that be.

I don't ever recommend buying anything based on "coming soon", unless it's a proven source.

"Soon" could be years, in AIM's case.

[14stu]

I have nothing but good experiences with my AIM Solo2, but it's not a DL and it sounds like all the problems are with the features of the DL.

I was in the market for a lap timer and waited on the release of the 2 since used 1's weren't much cheaper than new.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by 14stu

I have nothing but good experiences with my AIM Solo2, but it's not a DL and it sounds like all the problems are with the features of the DL.

I was in the market for a lap timer and waited on the release of the 2 since used 1's weren't much cheaper than new.

Same here. I have the non DL version. It has been great for me.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Same here. I have the non DL version. It has been great for me.

Originally Posted by 14stu

I have nothing but good experiences with my AIM Solo2, but it's not a DL and it sounds like all the problems are with the features of the DL.

I was in the market for a lap timer and waited on the release of the 2 since used 1's weren't much cheaper than new.

The non-DL works as advertised. The problem is the DL's do not have the capability promised, and it's been 6 months since the original promised launch date already. Mainly, these are just software and firmware issues, that quite frankly, should not be that difficult to integrate.

[Jyn]

Seems AiM has just released the CANBUS integration for our cars last week. So users may want to try updating that.

[redlined600]

Stupid question then, but can the DL pull obd2 data as well, or only from the CAN system? Is the obd2 data more reliable?

[Sleepless]

Originally Posted by redlined600

Stupid question then, but can the DL pull obd2 data as well, or only from the CAN system? Is the obd2 data more reliable?

I have the original Solo DL and the OBD2 data is reliable. I'd expect the Solo 2 DL to be just as reliable. It seems to be the new features that they advertised months ago that are taking for ever. But, I'm guess Solo 2 DL market is fairly small (I see tons of regular Solos at the track but so far I'm the only one with a DL).

[kch]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The non-DL works as advertised. The problem is the DL's do not have the capability promised, and it's been 6 months since the original promised launch date already. Mainly, these are just software and firmware issues, that quite frankly, should not be that difficult to integrate.

Can you expand on this? I haven't dumped my data yet but I used my 2DL last weekend and it was displaying temps and other stuff just fine.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by kch

Can you expand on this? I haven't dumped my data yet but I used my 2DL last weekend and it was displaying temps and other stuff just fine.

"Programmable shift lights", predictive time modes, etc.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by redlined600

Stupid question then, but can the DL pull obd2 data as well, or only from the CAN system? Is the obd2 data more reliable?

It can pull both.

[kch]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

"Programmable shift lights", predictive time modes, etc.

I was able to program the lights to act as shift lights. I haven't tried setting them up for predictive timing yet.

Edit: I'm using the OBD2 connection, and it did seem like there was a lag in the lights. My 4th light was supposed to go red at 7200 but i would hit limiter before it would light up. Not sure if there's something wrong or it was just laggy.

It also seemed to be reading temps a little lower than I expected. It claimed my IAT was 9C/48F when ambient was 13C/55F.

Edit2: It also seemed to disregard my unit preferences. I told it to use F, but everything was displayed in C. I guess I'm having more issues than I thought, but they're fairly minor.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by kch

I was able to program the lights to act as shift lights. I haven't tried setting them up for predictive timing yet.

Edit: I'm using the OBD2 connection, and it did seem like there was a lag in the lights. My 4th light was supposed to go red at 7200 but i would hit limiter before it would light up. Not sure if there's something wrong or it was just laggy.

It also seemed to be reading temps a little lower than I expected. It claimed my IAT was 9C/48F when ambient was 13C/55F.

Edit2: It also seemed to disregard my unit preferences. I told it to use F, but everything was displayed in C. I guess I'm having more issues than I thought, but they're fairly minor.

I brain farted. They're advertised as programmable lights, not "just" shift lights.

I'd rather have each light indicate a different threshold for me.

As of now, the Solo 2 DL offers zero value to me over a Solo DL. In fact, it's actually of less value, since it can't do everything a Solo 1 does at this time.

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It can pull both.

Very curious. If I could, Id go with the CAN (but do not know how?).

My OBD port is shoddy it sets on and off (reset) and I can never get proper data. Tried two different cables and a different DL (same issue). I have to plug the ECU connecter, pull it ever so slightly towards me so its snug, then duct tape the wire on the side to keep it that way. I even tried zip tying the sucker tight and it still screws up from time to time

Lutfy

[Sleepless]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Very curious. If I could, Id go with the CAN (but do not know how?).

My OBD port is shoddy it sets on and off (reset) and I can never get proper data. Tried two different cables and a different DL (same issue). I have to plug the ECU connecter, pull it ever so slightly towards me so its snug, then duct tape the wire on the side to keep it that way. I even tried zip tying the sucker tight and it still screws up from time to time

Lutfy

It gets CAN via the OBD port so maybe time to replace it. Or, you can probably find someone that can directly wire it up, it "only" a couple of wires on off the OBD2 port. Good race shop should be able to do it.