Transmission doesn't want to go into 1st, notchy changes.

[Decep]

ive had cars with bad shift forks cause this behavior too.

[dhuang]

Originally Posted by Decep

ive had cars with bad shift forks cause this behavior too.

We both have Velox forks, so I'm pretty sure that is a non-issue. Unless both our forks are out of spec.

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Do you have trouble getting into gear when it's cold? If so, you can check for disc warp easily. If it only happens after hot, then heat-related distortion is automatically a safe bet.

My issue seems to be only happen when the car is warmed up.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by dhuang

My issue seems to be only happen when the car is warmed up.

That's disc warp. If it's minor, you may be able to compensate by raising your pedal a bit but it's not permanent. It will only get worse as it wears unevenly.

Is it lowered from factory setting now?

[dhuang]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

That's disc warp. If it's minor, you may be able to compensate by raising your pedal a bit but it's not permanent. It will only get worse as it wears unevenly.

Is it lowered from factory setting now?

Yes, I've adjusted the pedal to catch lower than factory, so pedal height is a tad higher than where the brake pedal is.

[AndyBRZ]

I had this issue a couple of weeks ago in my BRZ. This is primarily a track car and it was shifting perfectly. I stopped at McDonald's for a cup of coffee and then the car is super hard in first and reverse.
I've got to my buddy's house and noticed that the clutch slave cylinder unit was kind of lazy pushing the transmission fork. It was bled properly so then I noticed that the fork itself is kind of gauged at the area where the piston hits. I added a metal round spacer of about 1/4" to the cylinder slave piston tip and all my shifting problems went away. I would encourage to make sure all fluid is bled properly and then add the spacer. It works wonderful. I hope this help you.

[dhuang]

Originally Posted by AndyBRZ

I added a metal round spacer of about 1/4" to the cylinder slave piston tip and all my shifting problems went away. I would encourage to make sure all fluid is bled properly and then add the spacer. It works wonderful. I hope this help you.

Are you using the stock fork?

I'm definitely ready to try this solution -- I always thought more travel should rectify this issue.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by AndyBRZ

I had this issue a couple of weeks ago in my BRZ. This is primarily a track car and it was shifting perfectly. I stopped at McDonald's for a cup of coffee and then the car is super hard in first and reverse.
I've got to my buddy's house and noticed that the clutch slave cylinder unit was kind of lazy pushing the transmission fork. It was bled properly so then I noticed that the fork itself is kind of gauged at the area where the piston hits. I added a metal round spacer of about 1/4" to the cylinder slave piston tip and all my shifting problems went away. I would encourage to make sure all fluid is bled properly and then add the spacer. It works wonderful. I hope this help you.

First bold: Did you bleed it properly at that time, or are you confirming for us that it had no air in the line?

Second bold: This only shifted the at-rest position of the slave cylinder plunger. It is a self adjusting mechanism.

[AndyBRZ]

I am using the stock factory fork.
I was confirming that it had no air in the line. In fact I use Castrol SRF fluid, the best.
I agree that this is a self adjusting mechanism but it seems to work better when shifted to a longer "piston" which is what you achieve with the rounded spacer.
Also, loosen up the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder and shift the cylinder as close to the fork as possible. Torque to 20 lb-ft.

[Cal3000]

I had the same issue with the old rev of the Exedy Stage 2. It wasn't fully disengaging and was having issues going into 1st and reverse. I adjusted the pedal a good amount and it started releasing. Too bad my throwout bearing was damaged and seized when I did that. lol. Just try adjusting the clutch pedal more. Turn it to the direction where the grab height is really high.

Also, if you are not going to go over 250wtq, just stick with the oem clutch.

[dhuang]

Originally Posted by AndyBRZ

I am using the stock factory fork.
...but it seems to work better when shifted to a longer "piston" which is what you achieve with the rounded spacer.

Do you have a link or part number to the rounded spacer? This is something I want to experiment with. If all is well (properly disengages, doesn't slip, etc), it will make the car a joy to drive again.

I currently love the grab point of my pedal, so I would prefer to leave that alone.

[Freude am Fahren]

Man this just keeps getting stranger. Sometimes it's fine, sometimes it's awful.

It's inconstant, and not really dependent on temp. It's always difficult when the car is in cold start mode, I assume because of the extra revs.

The other day, I even noticed that revs started to drop/car started to move as soon as I started to pick up the pedal, instead of way up the travel like normal. This has happened a couple times now, but is pretty rare.

[Freude am Fahren]

sad lulz. I just adjusted the clutch pedal back down a bit to make it more comfortable to drive. Went out for a drive to see if it made anything worse with engagement. Drove around town for a half hour and it was just fine. No issues. What the hell!?

Could air in the clutch lines make it inconsistent like that?

By the way, I noticed a new sound. When I start to engage the clutch, I get the normal (at least I think) sound you would expect, you know two materials starting to rub with more and more friction. Kinda like a 'shhhhh' that gets a bit lower as you let the pedal out. But the new thing is right before full engagement, I get a slight groan. I'll have to try to get a sound clip, but it won't be easy to do.

On the bright side, that typical stock creaking sound from the clutch is gone :shrug:

[Astroboy]

Originally Posted by Cal3000

I had the same issue with the old rev of the Exedy Stage 2. It wasn't fully disengaging and was having issues going into 1st and reverse. I adjusted the pedal a good amount and it started releasing. Too bad my throwout bearing was damaged and seized when I did that. lol. Just try adjusting the clutch pedal more. Turn it to the direction where the grab height is really high.

Also, if you are not going to go over 250wtq, just stick with the oem clutch.

How many miles ypu have boosted now? Also are you sc or turbocharged

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