Took my car in for rough idle...

[Da Brz]

Originally Posted by Icecreamtruk

Seals, it is possible that the injector seals are bad on it. Usually this is a problem that mostly happens to people who track the car, but I guess enough ambient heat can do the trick as well. Does the car dip to around/below 500 rpm and then right before stalling goes up to like 1k rpm on its own and does this little cycle several times in a row? If so, it might be the injector seals, if it does it only once it might just be the AC that turned on. Remember that when you have the air directed towards the windshield (or feet and windshield) the AC is on all the time, wether you want hot or cold air (its a setting on the car that can be changed by techstream and the default value is on).

Yes, that. Does it about every 19-20 seconds or so.

[radroach]

Originally Posted by Da Brz

stop putting spaces in your name I just want to mention you @"Da Brz"

Dips are normal when the alternator clutch kicks in. Sit in your car at idle, no A/C, and roll both windows down max, then try again. The strain from both electric motors should make the idle dip or stumble / miss a beat. Yes it sucks but its normal operation.

And yeah what @Icecreamtruk said about A/C, including the windshield blower, makes this occur more often.

[Da Brz]

Originally Posted by radroach

Dips are normal when the alternator clutch kicks in. Sit in your car at idle, no A/C, and roll both windows down max, then try again. The strain from both electric motors should make the idle dip or stumble / miss a beat. Yes it sucks but its normal operation.

And yeah what @Icecreamtruk said about A/C, including the windshield blower, makes this occur more often.

Just tried this. It dipped about 50rpm but not nearly what I'm talking about.I'm taking about a 150-200rpm drop with a stumble.

When I left for lunch, it did it twice in a row when I pushed in the clutch to shift. I thought it was going to die.

[radroach]

Maybe your battery has a bad cell?

[Da Brz]

And when I say stumble, I mean it shakes the shifter and you can feel it through the floorboards.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by Da Brz

And when I say stumble, I mean it shakes the shifter and you can feel it through the floorboards.

That sounds within the range of Normal with A/C on a low torque motor. It might be most obvious before things are warmed up fully - the transmission fluid is thicker so there's parasitic drag that goes away when you put the clutch in, and the engine operates differently when cold. This car has pretty good feedback to the driver even stock, which means things like this are felt more than in, say, a Corolla. It's more obvious as you start stiffening up the mounts and stuff.

[Lynxis]

You can determine if it's the AC condensor for sure if you turn off the fan, heat, AC and roll the windows down. My car stumbles from 700 to 500 at idle every 20-30 seconds when I'm running the fan at all. I get no stumbles at all when I turn all that off. If you still get stumbles then you probably have something else going on.

The reason they don't see any TSBs is because the TSB only applies to 2013 and early 2014 cars. The fixes outlined in the TSBs are already applied to all 2015 and newer cars so they won't find one for your car.

[winstonscifi]

I don't know about that, Lynxis. I brought my new 2015 in for an oil change at the 1000 mile mark, and mentioned that I had the "hesitation" at idle. They did the TSB for me, and it fixed the situation. Maybe some 2015s were missed....just sayin'

[shiumai]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Have you had any 'bad gas' in the last decade or two?

Just the other day, actually. I shouldn't have had that 2nd burrito. Lemme tell ya...

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Da Brz

And the dealership said it was either bad gas or the car trying to save gas.

*eye roll*

He said he didn't think there were any TSBs out for my car and to not worry about it.

Jalopnik and three prior year TSBs disagree with him.

Originally Posted by FX86

this is where you need to print out the TSB and shove in their asses..i mean faces so they can't say otherwise

Originally Posted by Da Brz

Thanks, but I've already looked here a few times. Nothing for 16s yet. There's one for autos hard shifting, but not manuals.

This is why you need to work with the dealer instead of being combative.

If there's no 2016 TSB, either 1) it is not a known issue, 2) the issue is corrected, or 3) it is a temporary issue due to bad gas.

TSBs usually have a date range or VIN that it applies to. TSBs are meant to correct some type of manufacturing, procedural, or product defect that is specific to a certain time and place of assembly in the vehicle manufacturing process.

To take a TSB that applies to 2013-2015 cars and say "oh this must apply to my car also" is the wrong way to get your problem solved.

-alex

[Da Brz]

Originally Posted by mav1178

This is why you need to work with the dealer instead of being combative.

If there's no 2016 TSB, either 1) it is not a known issue, 2) the issue is corrected, or 3) it is a temporary issue due to bad gas.

TSBs usually have a date range or VIN that it applies to. TSBs are meant to correct some type of manufacturing, procedural, or product defect that is specific to a certain time and place of assembly in the vehicle manufacturing process.

To take a TSB that applies to 2013-2015 cars and say "oh this must apply to my car also" is the wrong way to get your problem solved.

-alex

I'm not being combative. I took it in and told them my issue. I'm griping here a bit but I've been nothing but nice to them.

And I disagree about your TSB assumptions. I had a 2012 Mazda 3 that I bought brand new. It had an issue with surging while letting out on the clutch. I mentioned it a few times to my dealer and nothing happened. Guess what though; about a year later a TSB came out for my exact problem. I got it fixed and never had another issue with it.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Da Brz

And I disagree about your TSB assumptions. I had a 2012 Mazda 3 that I bought brand new. It had an issue with surging while letting out on the clutch. I mentioned it a few times to my dealer and nothing happened. Guess what though; about a year later a TSB came out for my exact problem. I got it fixed and never had another issue with it.

Yes, a year later.

I'm not assuming anything about TSB, I'm just telling you how they work. I don't care if there is a TSB a year later for your specific problem, I'm merely stating that to use a TSB that doesn't apply to your VIN or vehicle production date(s) to fix a similar problem is not a solution for your problem.

Most of the idle issue(s) that have been addressed via TSB on this car have been related to cam sprocket (entire assembly or shims causing malfunction), or ECU tuning. Both of these were addressed in subsequent vehicles that were manufactured after the affected VIN range. So, either you have a new issue that Subaru was previously unaware of, your issue is unique to your car, or it may have been temporary and may not show up after the next tank or gas, or the next rain.

2013-2015 TSB does not do a single thing for your 2016 fix, that's all I'm saying. Even if you want to throw it at the dealership, they can't use it to perform actual work because corporate won't reimburse them for improperly applying a TSB.

-alex

[Da Brz]

Originally Posted by mav1178

This is why you need to work with the dealer instead of being combative.

If there's no 2016 TSB, either 1) it is not a known issue, 2) the issue is corrected, or 3) it is a temporary issue due to bad gas.

TSBs usually have a date range or VIN that it applies to. TSBs are meant to correct some type of manufacturing, procedural, or product defect that is specific to a certain time and place of assembly in the vehicle manufacturing process.

To take a TSB that applies to 2013-2015 cars and say "oh this must apply to my car also" is the wrong way to get your problem solved.

-alex

Maybe you're misunderstanding me. I'm not asking anyone to put a 2013 to 2015 TSB on my car.

But 2013, 2014 and 2015 all got separate TSBs for this. Separate. Meaning they didn't change anything at the factory and were letting the TSB fix the issues as people experienced them.

So for mine, there may not be a TSB out yet but maybe there should be. And how will they know to lol into it unless I tell them?

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Da Brz

Maybe you're misunderstanding me. I'm not asking anyone to put a 2013 to 2015 TSB on my car.

Originally Posted by Da Brz

He said he didn't think there were any TSBs out for my car and to not worry about it.

Jalopnik and three prior year TSBs disagree with him.

I'm not misunderstanding you.

I'm just saying to ignore TSB from 2013-2015 and look at your problem as unique.

The more you stick to using previous TSB as guidance, the more you can overlook other, more realistic sources of problems on your car.... but keep insisting on Jalopnik and prior year TSBs as your backup info, and you'll kind of get nowhere fast on diagnosing your problem.

Good luck.

-alex