Anyone do a Viper alarm by themselves yet?

[elbachatero1]

Originally Posted by hansthegerman

Just to make sure before I order, This model supports our cars right?

Amazon.com: Autopage ADSALCA ADS Immobilizer Bypass and Doorlock: Car Electronics

Does anybody know if this is the only bypass needed? I went to a couple shops today and they were charging me an arm and a leg to install a Viper alarm with remote start. Stating also that they needed 2 bypasses from iDatalink. 1 for the auto start, and one for the rest of the stuff.. Please tell me that they were just trying to jerk me around lol..

[mashal]

I just did a "build your system" on the viper website and it didnt say i needed a bypass

[elbachatero1]

Originally Posted by mashal

I just did a "build your system" on the viper website and it didnt say i needed a bypass

I just did a build your system too but they don't list the brz as an option... I selected impreza just to test it out and it did say it required a bypass.

[SpeakBeck]

Originally Posted by burnt_rice

Idatalink has theirs ready to go. Both immobilizer bypass and convenience controls (locks, trunk, horn, tach, ebrake, etc).

This. Use the iDatalink pieces. The Directed Electronics (DBALL) pieces are junk in comparison.

Just like 99% of the new cars, the FRS and BRZ will need a bypass module for remote start.

[elbachatero1]

Originally Posted by Speakerbox Beck

This. Use the iDatalink pieces. The Directed Electronics (DBALL) pieces are junk in comparison.

Just like 99% of the new cars, the FRS and BRZ will need a bypass module for remote start.

Thanks! Do you know if I order the iDatalink ADS-AL CA does it come with both TB-SUB firmware and the DL-SUB? Or would I have to order 2 different ones? I have the push button start BRZ Limited 6MT. I want to be able to install the Viper 5904 with auto start.

[SpeakBeck]

Once you purchase the ADS-AL CA, you create an account on iDatalink's website. Once the account is created, you will "flash" the module to the specific vehicle you are installing on. It looks like the TB-SUB is the firmware that will be flashed onto the module since the DL-SUB says "not applicable" next to it.

Also, you HAVE to use Internet Explorer in order to flash the module. For whatever reason, iDatalink's website doesn't support Firefox, Chrome, etc.

I hope that information helps!

[elbachatero1]

Originally Posted by Speakerbox Beck

Once you purchase the ADS-AL CA, you create an account on iDatalink's website. Once the account is created, you will "flash" the module to the specific vehicle you are installing on. It looks like the TB-SUB is the firmware that will be flashed onto the module since the DL-SUB says "not applicable" next to it.

Also, you HAVE to use Internet Explorer in order to flash the module. For whatever reason, iDatalink's website doesn't support Firefox, Chrome, etc.

I hope that information helps!

Thank you sooo much!! That cleared up a lot for me. I went to a couple alarm shops by my house yesterday and they all sounded like they were talking out of their a** lol.. One guy wanted to charge me 800 because he said he needed 2 bypass modules, one for the auto start, and one for the other stuff. He wanted to charge 425 for an alarm I saw on amazon for 295.. 80 for the proximity sensor thats online for 30. That's when I said I'm better off buying the stuff myself, and then pay a professional to actually install it since I've never installed an alarm before..

[SpeakBeck]

Yeah, the ADS-AL CA should do everything you need for the car. That's why iDatalink modules are 10x better than the Directed Electronics ones. iDatalink modules require hardly any programming whereas the DBALL (Directed module) has MANY more steps.

That, and I'm not even sure if Directed Electronics has a module out for these vehicles yet...

[Lee358]

So buy the alarm/remote start. Buy the idatalink flash it online wire it all in do i lose a key if i have the push button start? How does that work if it has all the sensors will anyone be able to just walk up to my car and start it because the sensors think there is always a key in the car?


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[Subforever]

My car will be used by iDatalink maybe next week to finalise their system for keyless entry BRZ owner.

[SpeakBeck]

Originally Posted by Lee358

So buy the alarm/remote start. Buy the idatalink flash it online wire it all in do i lose a key if i have the push button start? How does that work if it has all the sensors will anyone be able to just walk up to my car and start it because the sensors think there is always a key in the car?


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You do not lose a key. You still need the key in the ignition to be able to move the vehicle, so no one can just walk up and take the vehicle. When installed properly, the car stays locked after remote starting as well and does not unlock until the user actually sends the unlock command.

[Lee358]

I dont have an ignition


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[20valvewynn83]

I have a viper 350 in my FRS. I didn't want a remote start that's why I chose this alarm. Unfortunately our cars use a can bus system and this means if you try to force 12v to the door lock system you will fry it. We can install the alarms but we can not activate the door locks or in my case the door locks and auto Windows up/down. We have to wait for viper to come out with a module and also viper has the wrong wires for the door locks on the manual vehicle.

[SpeakBeck]

Originally Posted by 20valvewynn83

I have a viper 350 in my FRS. I didn't want a remote start that's why I chose this alarm. Unfortunately our cars use a can bus system and this means if you try to force 12v to the door lock system you will fry it. We can install the alarms but we can not activate the door locks or in my case the door locks and auto Windows up/down. We have to wait for viper to come out with a module and also viper has the wrong wires for the door locks on the manual vehicle.

That's the downside about Directed Electronics (Viper, Python, Avital, etc.). You can still use these systems, but I would highly suggest using the iDatalink modules vs. the Directed-made modules. All of those door locks and such are activated through the data system, which would be what the iDatalink module is made for. (or the DBALL that Directed makes - IF/WHEN it works with these vehicles yet)

The wiring threads that I posted for the BRZ/FRS are from Audiovox who is MUCH more accurate than Directed when it comes to things like these.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13038

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13041