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Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack

Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires.

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Old 03-30-2016, 11:15 AM   #15
jasonojordan
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Yea I have ISC coils on my car already so got that handled straight away. Not going the power then handling route like I did with my WRX that was a disaster. Anyway back on topic!
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Old 03-30-2016, 11:19 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Ashikabi View Post
Speaking of springs. Didn't you get 8,9k? What brand were those and why did you choose then over the competition other than the future upgrade?
I have swift springs (they make custom rates from 4k to 24k) on my coilovers (fortune auto) I went with 7k front and 8k rear for more balanced car. Most people forget to take motion ratios into account when picking spring rates. A 7kg/mm front 7kg/mm rear will be stiffer in the front then the rear on our cars.
The reason I went so stiff is I will be running an aggressive alignment on competition tires. Had I wanted a more DD car I would have gone with a 5k 6k or a 6k 6k spring rate

Edit: yeah to stay on topic any more questions pm me haha!
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This thread got de-railed quick now it's just about Penis guitars
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Old 03-30-2016, 11:26 AM   #17
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No on topic. You are out of team derail if you keep this up
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Old 03-30-2016, 12:52 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Carnewbee View Post
Just got 18x9 +38 wheels and was advised 235 front and 245 back. I'm on 1inch lowering springs. Will these fit or they going to poke like a bitch unless I get coil overs camber bolts and control arms?
You'll be much happier with 245/35/18 or.. 255/35/18, but whatever you do... go squared! I have 255's on a 9.5in wide wheel and it's a little of a stretch.
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What are you talking about? You just killed one of the worst brands in history according to enthusiasts. People will be worshipping you like sheep.
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Old 03-30-2016, 01:00 PM   #19
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+1 on going with a squared setup on this car.

And back to original question, about -2* camber will fix most of the poke and won't be too bad. You'll get that naturally in the rear from a 1" drop, and camber bolts should be sufficient to get close enough in the front. Coilovers not necessary.

Enjoy your new wheels!
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Old 03-30-2016, 01:08 PM   #20
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First of all... Post a few pics of the wheels please!

Secondly, camber bolts, should be in a different category than coilovers and other suspension parts. You can get them for around $35. Cheap coilovers are still hundreds. Get some camber bolts.

Additionally, I would suggest 245/35/18 all around. Get tires that fit your driving style.
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Old 03-30-2016, 02:27 PM   #21
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Ashikabi: while many may see problems with shifted grip balance only on track and almost none on good tarmac in warm countries, many may see them in daily driving too .. if they live in countries with cold winter weather, when grip is very limited on snow/ice. On winter track .. or unplown/frozen public roads too, i prefer rather controling oversteer then understeer (though this is possible too, with mass transfer via brakes and accelerator liftoff and of course with lower entry speed), if car tends to push front out too much. I guess, it may be seen during heavy rain, near to aquaplaning speeds, aswell. And enthusiastic "canyon runs" are not that far from mild track use. Yes, grip can be reduced on back and added in front with some suspension upgrades/tuning .. but why introduce something that needs to be fixed with more investments in first place? Hence i won't agree that it won't matter and most drivers won't feel difference if daily driving only. Some won't .. but if they won't use this car as it was designed for, for bringing driving fun in curvy roads, it's just wasted potential of it.
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Old 03-30-2016, 02:41 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by churchx View Post
Ashikabi: while many may see problems with shifted grip balance only on track and almost none on good tarmac in warm countries, many may see them in daily driving too .. if they live in countries with cold winter weather, when grip is very limited on snow/ice. On winter track .. or unplown/frozen public roads too, i prefer rather controling oversteer then understeer (though this is possible too, with mass transfer via brakes and accelerator liftoff and of course with lower entry speed), if car tends to push front out too much. I guess, it may be seen during heavy rain, near to aquaplaning speeds, aswell. And enthusiastic "canyon runs" are not that far from mild track use. Yes, grip can be reduced on back and added in front with some suspension upgrades/tuning .. but why introduce something that needs to be fixed with more investments in first place? Hence i won't agree that it won't matter and most drivers won't feel difference if daily driving only. Some won't .. but if they won't use this car as it was designed for, for bringing driving fun in curvy roads, it's just wasted potential of it.
How many people use this car to it's potential? Not many I expect. Now ice never used a staggered setup nor have I been in the mod game that long but I do know that everyone says heavy 18" wheels will make the car handle like trash. When I went from stock to heavy 18s I noticed 0 difference. Now I don't have twisty roads to drive on to push the limits but for DD... There was no difference. So I guess this experience has jaded me to many people's proclamations on how much handling is affected by things. Sure it's degraded or improved by XYZ but in such a small amount that it's not usually noticeable
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