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#15 |
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Drives: '16 FR-S Halo White
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Thanks all. Good to know they don't cause uneven tread wear. I'll look into it. Oh, and "learning to drive my car" lol
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#16 | |
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Quote:
And, yeah. Learning how to drive the car. |
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#17 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
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| The Following User Says Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post: | new2subaru (03-07-2016) |
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#18 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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I'm running -2.1,-1.3. I never said the car is faultless, but if you don't know how to instegate or prevent a particular situation as the driver, making the car more capable will only get you into trouble sooner. But whatever, I guess I'm too narrow minded by looking further ahead than just this.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to boredom.is.me For This Useful Post: | strat61caster (03-07-2016) |
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#19 |
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As others have said, before spending money on a rear bar, try camber bolts and an alignment. Aim for -1.5 degrees camber in the front & 0 toe all around. I found that was a near neutral alignment at the track with the 2013 suspension on worn NT05 tires. It had a little more understeer on fresh BFG Rivals, but still quite balanced.
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#20 |
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Join Date: Aug 2014
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More camber, won't hurt your tire life. Cornering too hard and rolling your tires because you don't have enough camber will affect tire life. Get more camber.
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#21 |
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Figured I'd jump in here when i read that our STB was making your car understeer!
Everyone here has already pretty much nailed it, but the car always understeered, you're just more willing to push it to that limit. Front engine, rear wheel drive "performance cars" are almost always set up to default to understeer as it is the perceived "safer condition" compared to oversteer. And the change that you're sensing (despite what everyone here who maintains the "strut bars do nothing mentality despite having not done the testing and not owning one, let alone ours) is that the strut tower bar really is keeping the tension and compression between the two towers tied together. No longer is one towers going left and the other right over a bump or through a turn, they both are opposing the forces and either going one direction, or none at all. The most surprising thing I learned was in a turn (we posted all this data in our development thread) was that the loading on the strut towers was cyclic, that is alternating between tension and compression. Granted these are very small deflections, but when those deflections are going the opposite directions of each other they double. When They are tied together they don't anymore, and end up with deflections in the same direction. This lends to more predictable handling because the car isn't gaining and losing camber and more importantly toe on opposing wheels when going through a turn. So, there are some good suggestions in this thread (and don't worry about camber wear if your toe is correct, toe is the tire killer). But i mainly chimed in to remind everyone about the rear suspension design and rear strut bars: A front strut bar is effective because there is no material between the two front strut towers. Also the strut is connected directly to the spindle and thus wheel in a very stiff, solid connection. The rear strut towers have a lot of material between them. Some obvious and some non-obvious. But the springs and shocks are connected to the lower control arms, and hinged. So the strut tower bar would see 0 to near-0 lateral load, and very very little "up and down" load. So I'd put your money elsewhere too ![]() Chase Engineering |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to GrimmSpeed For This Useful Post: | EssJay (04-12-2016), GeorgeJFrick (03-08-2016) |
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#22 |
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Join Date: Feb 2016
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Thanks Chase! It definitely sounds like dialing in a bit of neg. camber (and maybe a slight drop) is my next journey!
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