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| Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ |
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#15 |
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BRZZZZZ
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Synthetic oil has shelf life of 10 years if stored in closed container in a shaded place away from sunlight or heat. I have used oil that I found sitting in my shed from last year and didn't had any issues. If the oil can sit in your car for a year between oil changes, it should be ok in a bottle also.
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#16 |
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Just put it in the trunk near the spare tire....how has this thread lasted this long..lol
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#17 |
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Panda Trueno
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I take all the 1/2 qts from various cars and mix it in to a big jug and call it "super oil."
I use whatever synthetic oil is on sale at the time just make sure it is the same weight. That 12th oil change has every additive pack known to man and will make the car run pure and perfect for life. lol |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Summerwolf For This Useful Post: | murdoc (02-04-2016) |
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#18 |
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Sometimes I'm wrong.
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Keep one half quart in the car, then when the next change comes if you haven't used it, put that in the engine first. Then you only need to buy 5 quarts.
Only you'll probably need to top off at some point so this won't really work out as perfectly. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to murdoc For This Useful Post: | Summerwolf (02-04-2016) |
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#19 | |
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Quote:
I keep the remnants in the bottle and just throw it on the shelf for the next oil change. If you are really worried about it, you can buy a hydrometer on the internets, they are pretty cheap. Don't expect to find much moisture though. The oil in your pan is likely to have more moisture than the oil in the old bottle.
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#20 | |
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-alex |
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#22 | |
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I don't think your post contains 100% accurate information. Can you describe what you mean by "a proper complete drain"? I would be cauteous about telling people to refill with 6 quarts, since if I recall correctly that even goes against what the owner's manual lists.
I have drained my oil when the car is completely cold and let it drip for 2 hours and upon refilling, the car takes approximately 5.8 quarts until the oil level on the dipstick is on F.
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#23 | |
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Takes longer to accomplish but as you already eluded to, I can fill with almost 6 quarts. I usually put in 6, the extra .2 quarts won't do anything. -alex |
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#24 |
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The Motor Head:
In a highball glass almost filled with ice cubes, combine the oil and Methanol. Stir well. Then float the Mt Dew on top and garnish with a Lug nut! In all seriousness: Don't do this at home kids with out asking your parents. And yes, I use oil that has been opened in my lawn mower, or my quad, or my old farm truck. |
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#25 | ||
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A minor warmup and subsequent drain? Are you saying you run the engine with no oil in it or something?
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#26 | |
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-alex |
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#27 | |
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I am not trying to be argumentative, but I fail to see the logic in turning on a cold engine and drawing up oil out of the pan, versus just draining when cold so the maximum amount of oil is already sitting in the pan.
With modern synthetics, I don't feel that it would be advantageous to put a "coating" on key engine components like what you are describing. It's not going to be running "dry" at first startup after oil change because there's always a thin film/coating and you're never going to be able to get all the oil out of the motor even if you let it drip for 6 hours or overnight. Perhaps a better method for not "running dry" upon first startup after oil change would be to prime the oil filter with a half quart or so so that there's already oil in there for the motor to draw from versus an empty filter.
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#28 | |
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Quote:
While I do agree on the engine protection part, the general rule I follow is to make sure the engine has warmed up sufficiently to have it be warm/borderline hot to the touch. Warm/circulated oil also helps reduce buildup by allowing any contaminants that have settled to the bottom of the pan to be drained out with the oil. -alex |
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