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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ

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Old 02-04-2016, 09:45 AM   #15
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Synthetic oil has shelf life of 10 years if stored in closed container in a shaded place away from sunlight or heat. I have used oil that I found sitting in my shed from last year and didn't had any issues. If the oil can sit in your car for a year between oil changes, it should be ok in a bottle also.
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Old 02-04-2016, 10:22 AM   #16
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Just put it in the trunk near the spare tire....how has this thread lasted this long..lol
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Old 02-04-2016, 10:37 AM   #17
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I take all the 1/2 qts from various cars and mix it in to a big jug and call it "super oil."


I use whatever synthetic oil is on sale at the time just make sure it is the same weight. That 12th oil change has every additive pack known to man and will make the car run pure and perfect for life.










lol
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Old 02-04-2016, 10:39 AM   #18
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Keep one half quart in the car, then when the next change comes if you haven't used it, put that in the engine first. Then you only need to buy 5 quarts.

Only you'll probably need to top off at some point so this won't really work out as perfectly.
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:40 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.ac View Post
You make me faceplam, and question your generation.
Joking aside,

As long as don't store it in an open container, oil will go "rancid" in about 10 years and that if you have oil from the 80's. Today's oil would be good for up to 20 years.
So yeah it's an old myth

Like others said, either keep it in the garage or keep it in the trunk.
Not entirely true. Synthetic oils will absorb moisture out of the air. That said, as long as the container is sealed, it will only absorb the moisture out of the air that is sealed in the container, which is next to nothing. Just don't go opening the container all the time.

I keep the remnants in the bottle and just throw it on the shelf for the next oil change. If you are really worried about it, you can buy a hydrometer on the internets, they are pretty cheap. Don't expect to find much moisture though. The oil in your pan is likely to have more moisture than the oil in the old bottle.
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Old 02-04-2016, 01:44 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by lupindub View Post
Since our car requires aprox. 5.5 quarts of oil, we need to buy 6 quarts of oil per oil change. So what do you guy's do with the unused and open .5 quart of oil? I heard oil can go "rancid", especially after the factory packaging has been opened. Is this an old wives tale or truth behind this, and does this only apply to standard oil or to synthetic as well?
Just pour all 6 quarts in. If you do a proper complete drain, your engine can take all 6 quarts.

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Old 02-04-2016, 02:52 PM   #21
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I just close it and store for next oil change. 0 issue
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Old 02-04-2016, 03:25 PM   #22
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I don't think your post contains 100% accurate information. Can you describe what you mean by "a proper complete drain"? I would be cauteous about telling people to refill with 6 quarts, since if I recall correctly that even goes against what the owner's manual lists.

I have drained my oil when the car is completely cold and let it drip for 2 hours and upon refilling, the car takes approximately 5.8 quarts until the oil level on the dipstick is on F.

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Originally Posted by mav1178 View Post
Just pour all 6 quarts in. If you do a proper complete drain, your engine can take all 6 quarts.

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Old 02-04-2016, 03:29 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Clipdat View Post
I don't think your post contains 100% accurate information. Can you describe what you mean by "a proper complete drain"?

I have drained my oil when the car is completely cold and let it drip for 2 hours and upon refilling, the car takes approximately 5.8 quarts until the oil level on the dipstick is on F.
"Proper complete drain" includes a minor warmup and subsequent drain on a flat surface until the dripping is slow.

Takes longer to accomplish but as you already eluded to, I can fill with almost 6 quarts. I usually put in 6, the extra .2 quarts won't do anything.

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Old 02-04-2016, 03:36 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Decay107 View Post
I drink it mixed with methanol and mountain dew
The Motor Head:
In a highball glass almost filled with ice cubes, combine the oil and Methanol. Stir well. Then float the Mt Dew on top and garnish with a Lug nut!








In all seriousness: Don't do this at home kids with out asking your parents.






And yes, I use oil that has been opened in my lawn mower, or my quad, or my old farm truck.
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Old 02-04-2016, 03:38 PM   #25
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A minor warmup and subsequent drain? Are you saying you run the engine with no oil in it or something?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mav1178 View Post
"Proper complete drain" includes a minor warmup and subsequent drain on a flat surface until the dripping is slow.

Takes longer to accomplish but as you already eluded to, I can fill with almost 6 quarts. I usually put in 6, the extra .2 quarts won't do anything.

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Old 02-04-2016, 03:42 PM   #26
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A minor warmup and subsequent drain? Are you saying you run the engine with no oil in it or something?
NO... I warm the engine up for a few minutes (if it's cold). Turn off, then drain oil. This way when the engine is restarted, there is already some oil on key engine components so it never runs dry.

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Old 02-04-2016, 03:59 PM   #27
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I am not trying to be argumentative, but I fail to see the logic in turning on a cold engine and drawing up oil out of the pan, versus just draining when cold so the maximum amount of oil is already sitting in the pan.

With modern synthetics, I don't feel that it would be advantageous to put a "coating" on key engine components like what you are describing. It's not going to be running "dry" at first startup after oil change because there's always a thin film/coating and you're never going to be able to get all the oil out of the motor even if you let it drip for 6 hours or overnight.

Perhaps a better method for not "running dry" upon first startup after oil change would be to prime the oil filter with a half quart or so so that there's already oil in there for the motor to draw from versus an empty filter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mav1178 View Post
NO... I warm the engine up for a few minutes (if it's cold). Turn off, then drain oil. This way when the engine is restarted, there is already some oil on key engine components so it never runs dry.

-alex
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Old 02-04-2016, 04:24 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Clipdat View Post
I am not trying to be argumentative, but I fail to see the logic in turning on a cold engine and drawing up oil out of the pan, versus just draining when cold so the maximum amount of oil is already sitting in the pan.

With modern synthetics, I don't feel that it would be advantageous to put a "coating" on key engine components like what you are describing. It's not going to be running "dry" at first startup after oil change because there's always a thin film/coating and you're never going to be able to get all the oil out of the motor even if you let it drip for 6 hours or overnight.

Perhaps a better method for not "running dry" upon first startup after oil change would be to prime the oil filter with a half quart or so so that there's already oil in there for the motor to draw from versus an empty filter.
There is also the side benefit of warm(er) engines having flowed, so whatever debris is not settled on the bottom of the pan.

While I do agree on the engine protection part, the general rule I follow is to make sure the engine has warmed up sufficiently to have it be warm/borderline hot to the touch.

Warm/circulated oil also helps reduce buildup by allowing any contaminants that have settled to the bottom of the pan to be drained out with the oil.

-alex
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