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01-03-2016, 12:32 AM | #15 |
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File a complaint on the NHTSA website here: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
Subie and Toyota have known about this crap for years and have not addressed it sufficiently. ***Hopefully this will lead to an eventual investigation by the NHTSA, then the manufacturers might pay attention and do something. Oil consistently leaking all over the underside of your car is a potential safety hazard... |
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01-03-2016, 01:31 AM | #16 |
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Well, that sucks!
I figure after that many tries to seal that cover, either it, or the adjacent part of the block has a crack in it ...... or, the block or cam cover is warped. You wouldn’t think it would take a rocket-mechanic to “see” that. I’d suggest they either mill the cover or replace it. Is everyone sure that is where the leak is ….. and not just where the oil is showing up….?? Maybe after they seal it, then put the engine back in and tighten it down on the mounts ……. it’s binding the block and opening up a space for the leak…. ?? Keep us posted. humfrz |
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01-03-2016, 10:58 PM | #17 |
hey you, yeah you <3
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Anyone know what cost may be if done by dealer w/o warranty? jw
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01-03-2016, 11:15 PM | #18 |
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01-03-2016, 11:51 PM | #19 |
hey you, yeah you <3
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keep me posted. Friend's BRZ is at 43k with leak.
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01-04-2016, 01:57 AM | #20 |
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He should still be covered as there is a TSB for the timing cover leak. It covers basically all of the points for the seepage/lead. Mine was the passenger side cam cover plate.
The TSB calls for removal of the engine so that's where the $$$ comes in. Mine specifically could have probably be done with the engine in the car especially if the radiator was removed. |
01-05-2016, 10:47 PM | #21 |
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I actually have been wondering what the cost would be without a warranty but I forget to ask every time. I can tell you that the fix generally requires pulling the engine though so it can't be cheap. @Packofcrows the engine/powertrain warranty on the car goes to 60,000 miles too. Only the total warranty ends at 36,000 (30,000?).
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01-06-2016, 03:28 AM | #22 |
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01-06-2016, 04:02 AM | #23 |
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I'm going to keep an eye on the oil level until I have a chance to bring it back. I have my first HPDE in this car in late February so it'll be before then. This I'm going to request (firmly) that they replace the actual cover, and check the block for warping. I think the repeated removals and fix attempts have only perpetuated the problem. I don't think the mechanics were... surgical... enough with the comparatively flimsy aluminum cover: the leak is worsened just about exactly where a pry bar would go... And only on the top in the middle 2/3 of the top line...
Essentially my plan is to make one last effort and make them replace the cover instead of just resealing... Sidenote: The free oil changes are a silver lining though I suppose @humfrz |
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01-06-2016, 02:31 PM | #24 |
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01-06-2016, 03:05 PM | #25 |
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I am also currently having this problem, BRZ goes to the dealer tomorrow for repair. Hopefully it gets fixed the first time, I have confidence in my dealer they have yet to let me down. Doesn't mean I'm not nervous about it though.
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01-06-2016, 03:41 PM | #26 |
...Just add nauseum
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Get photos of both mating surfaces after cleaning next time. Make them show you.
They're just dealer techs. There's no guarantee they're cleaning, sealing, or reassembling it correctly (if you don't get every scrap of sealant off of both surfaces and torque it evenly and correctly during reassembly it will leak no matter what), but assuming they are competent, I suspect another issue altogether. The sealant is there to seal microscopic imperfections in 2 flat metal surfaces. From experience it is very easy to scar, mar, or chip these while scraping off old sealant. Once that has happened, it will never seal again. Plain ol' RTV sealant (even heavy duty stuff) will not fill a hole and last. It may seal initially, but after temperature and pressure cycles, it will leak. If one the 2 surfaces were chipped at the factory, or during assembly, or during repair, you need a new part. That either means new block halves or a new timing cover. From experience, techs like to ignore little problems like that (because they will create tons of extra work and incur lots of cost) and supervisors like to ignore or dismiss them. The mechanics usually turn a blind eye and count on hope, luck, or apathy to make the problem go away. Yes I said presure cycles. I know that area is not holding oil pressure, but it is holding up against the physical pressure of expansion and contraction during heating and cooling, as well as variations in air pressure as the crankcase internal pressure changes due to blowby and PCV. It only takes a small amount of differential pressure to blow out RTV if it's standing on it's own without 2 mating surfaces to support it. Even in a tiny hole. Especially when it's hot. TL : DR Magic doesn't seal it, magic doesn't cause it to leak. The repeated problem is caused by the techs' incompetence, or the techs ignoring a glaring issue.
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01-06-2016, 08:47 PM | #27 |
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@Spartarus I will definitely ask for the pictures this time and ask for close ups of every section too just to be sure. I'm really tired of the leak and it's already ridiculous at this point with so many leaks... Thanks for the comments!!
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01-21-2016, 11:19 AM | #28 | |
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Quote:
I'm pretty sure they used a stronger sealant when they fixed it but I guess there's nothing else for them to do except to try again a second time right? |
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help me, oil leak, timing cover leak |
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