Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

I drove the car home, walked inside and changed clothes, and then took the wheels off. I've never seen surface rust develop so fast. The back rotors (OEM) are fine.

The pads not mated to the surface of the rotors yet accelerates surface rust? Sorry if this is pretty basic. Road america in a week and a half and in a scramble to get everything done in time.

More like, they're not mated, so the rust is not getting scraped off.

[Alan]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

I was actually going to attempt to use a splitter this weekend. We'll see what happens and I'll report back.

-mike

I'm curious to see if this works. AiM and P3 both think it will but I'm skeptical. If it does, sign me up for a DL. Is the DL really that much more useful than Non-DL? I would think that lateral and longitudinal acceleration are just as good indicators as throttle and brake position.

What about a switch in an OBDII splitter? I don't like plugging and unplugging things and having loose wires.

I already have a P3 and want to start looking at data.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Alan

I'm curious to see if this works. AiM and P3 both think it will but I'm skeptical. If it does, sign me up for a DL. Is the DL really that much more useful than Non-DL? I would think that lateral and longitudinal acceleration are just as good indicators as throttle and brake position.

What about a switch in an OBDII splitter? I don't like plugging and unplugging things and having loose wires.

I already have a P3 and want to start looking at data.

You won't get throttle and brake without the DL. The DL lets you pull OBD2 data.

-Mike

[Alan]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You won't get throttle and brake without the DL. The DL lets you pull OBD2 data.

-Mike

Right, I get that but what's the advantage over the acceleration data from the non DL? I've seen lots of people using non DL in DL-capable cars.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Alan

Right, I get that but what's the advantage over the acceleration data from the non DL? I've seen lots of people using non DL in DL-capable cars.

I can see exactly what I'm doing.

FOr example, lets say you spin the tires. The non-DL will only see the (lack of) acceleration, but not explain WHY you're not accelerating. The DL will show you that you are not accelerating but the tires are spinning, and you're WOT.

[Alan]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I can see exactly what I'm doing.

FOr example, lets say you spin the tires. The non-DL will only see the (lack of) acceleration, but not explain WHY you're not accelerating. The DL will show you that you are not accelerating but the tires are spinning, and you're WOT.

Well that makes a heck of a lot of sense and I'm concerned why I didn't figure that out myself!

[ddeflyer]

There is more to it than that also. Another major advantage that the DL has is that the car's gyros are hard mounted in a way that you are unlikely to imitate with a DL (basically short of fairly extreme drilling and bolting). The DL's mounts can effectively damp some of the finer details while the car's gyros will show it much more crisply. Same goes for the wheel speed vs. GPS speed; the wheel speed is averaged over a shorter period of time so you get more accurate information about when a delta occurred.

Beyond that, some of the sensors can be very helpful in training on other things. Heel toe is a classic one with training to not have a brake pressure drop or increase. Another tool like that is car balance; you can see when you apply brake or throttle and then see what the effect is (camera helps alot on this).

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

We're working on the third generation CSG Lugnut, but they won't be here for a while.

The WedsSport lugs are great, and we have them in stock. I've heard good things about the EVS lugs as well.

I'm curious to know what makes one lug nut superior to the other if they all fit the same way in the wheel and made with the same materials (T7 grade aluminum for the most part) aside from the quality of the finish (anodizing or plating).

[RMP]

While we are on the subject, does anyone have a mapping for the CAN bus ID's that includes the necessary formula/scaling to convert the raw values?

I'm building a data logger and have so far reverse engineered the following.

Parameter CAN ID Offset formula/scaling
Brake pedal 0xD1 byte 2 ranges from 0 to ~55
Accelerator pedal 0x140 byte 0 ranges from 0 to 255
Steering Angle 0xd0 byte 0 and 1 0 at neutral, positive CW, negative CCW
RPM 0x360 byte 0 and 1 not sure what the formula is to convert it to RPM, but would really like to know.

[Apex_BRZ]

Just finished installing the Jackson Racing oil cooler on a stock BRZ. Oil temp are crazy low. It's 60F ambient today, and the oil temp at 72mph sits right at 152F. It goes to 170F or higher fairly quick when stopped and idling. Seems to me the tstat is stuck open.

What are normal temp with this kit when cruising?

What are safe Oil temp (what's too low)?

What does the thermostat open at (JR told me 185)?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

Just finished installing the Jackson Racing oil cooler on a stock BRZ. Oil temp are crazy low. It's 60F ambient today, and the oil temp at 72mph sits right at 152F. It goes to 170F or higher fairly quick when stopped and idling. Seems to me the tstat is stuck open.

What are normal temp with this kit when cruising?

What are safe Oil temp (what's too low)?

What does the thermostat open at (JR told me 185)?

It's always trickle flowing.

Remember you're reading oil temp post-cooler. Don't worry about oil being too cool; it's not.

As a litmus test, go on the highway (after your car is warmed up), and sit in third gear, and watch your temps go up

[Apex_BRZ]

Interesting note that it's post cooler. I tested it last night by cruising in 4th at 5k rpm and saw that it went up, but I never saw past 182. I'm sure it'll be a different story on the track during a 20-30min session.

So...that was the last mod. My car is DONE! Just wanted to say thanks for the help, Mike. You and a couple other people on the forum were a great help in deciding which direction I wanted to take with the car without spending money on things that just aren't necessary for my goals. Now I can focus on getting my other car running (toasted the clutch) and possibly track ready as well. Short of going with a BBK (which I'll decide later after monitoring the brake setup this season), it's a done deal. I'll be going through CSG for all fluids and maintenance items from here on. Thanks again for all the advice!

Mods:
Brakes
Touge Factory Brake Ducting
GT3 Lower Control Arm Air Guides
DBA T3 Rotors
Carbotech XP10 Pads
Spiegler Stainless Lines
KNS/Hard Brakes Titanium Shims

Miscellaneous
Jackson Racing Oil Cooler Kit
Perrin Lightweight Crank, Water, and Alt Pulleys
Perrin Shifter Bushing
Perrin Trans Bushing
Perrin Solid Steering Rack Mounts
Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R Tires (225/45/17)
Enkei RPF01 Wheels (17x7.5)

Fluids
Engine: AMSOIL Signature Series 5W30
Trans: Motul 300V
Diff: AMSOIL Severe Gear 75/90 (will be swapping to Motul 300V next fill)

[superpenguin]

How much (if any) break in is advisable before taking the car to the track? (has 34 miles right now)
Would I be crazy to track (NASA HPDE 3/4, too slow for TT) on stock struts and H&R springs?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by superpenguin

How much (if any) break in is advisable before taking the car to the track? (has 34 miles right now)
Would I be crazy to track (NASA HPDE 3/4, too slow for TT) on stock struts and H&R springs?

Try to get at least 500 miles on the car, and change out the fluid in the transmission and differential.

They'll have some metal paste (normal) from breaking in fresh gears.