Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[HunterGreene]

Originally Posted by Pug

I'm joining a Arizona86 dyno day in the next month; anything else you're looking for in particular? I can tell you I think I've sold the 3 people who drove my car weekend before last on the system, but that's just subjective. I can also say I've hit the 26.x volt thermal derating a couple of times when I was repeating 5-second boosts in 2nd for 2-3 minutes while the ambient was 115 F and the car's sensor showed 120+F, but that the derate cleared up in 20-30 seconds of driving normally. This is WITHOUT the controller's cooling fan (as of yet).

This brings up a question: What is the optimal operating range of the battery pack? Are there packs that could be substituted that are designed to have a higher ambient temperature operating range? You would sacrifice lower-temperature operation possibly, but the fact that it infrequently gets below freezing in the southern half of the country should make this a non-issue.

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by HunterGreene

This brings up a question: What is the optimal operating range of the battery pack? Are there packs that could be substituted that are designed to have a higher ambient temperature operating range? You would sacrifice lower-temperature operation possibly, but the fact that it infrequently gets below freezing in the southern half of the country should make this a non-issue.

The 24V battery pack works best as it warms up. The thermal limit has more to due with recharge cycles and the amount of current necessary for recharge then ambient temperature.

[HunterGreene]

Originally Posted by Gary in NJ

The 24V battery pack works best as it warms up. The thermal limit has more to due with recharge cycles and the amount of current necessary for recharge then ambient temperature.

So, by logic, the cooler the battery pack is during operation, the better (without dampening current, at least)?

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by HunterGreene

So, by logic, the cooler the battery pack is during operation, the better (without dampening current, at least)?

The warmer the battery pack, the faster it can deliver its current.

[HunterGreene]

Originally Posted by Gary in NJ

The warmer the battery pack, the faster it can deliver its current.

This is correct. But there is an upper limit where the contents become too volatile, right? I know the current flow in and out creates its own heat, so what I am getting at is that either a warm-weather battery could be recommended or some sort of cooling system to prevent overheating under heavy use.

[Gary in NJ]

I'm not sure what the optimum temperature range is for charge/discharge. But given the limited space available, and the fact that this system has been designed to be simple to install, maintain and operate; a cooling/heating system that keeps the batteries at the Goldilocks temperature might be over the top. Further, Pug indicated that the thermal limit might be more a function of the controller then the batteries:

Quote: "but that the derate cleared up in 20-30 seconds of driving normally. This is WITHOUT the controller's cooling fan (as of yet)."

I do have the external fan on my controller and have not encountered any thermal limits (yet). In an effort to break-in and and condition my battery pack as quickly as possible, I have performed continuous back-to-back 0-60mph and 20-70mph sprints, many that didn't allow the batteries to fully recharge. I will explore this range of operation further and report back.

[Thatruth2001]

Originally Posted by Pug

I'm joining a Arizona86 dyno day in the next month; anything else you're looking for in particular? I can tell you I think I've sold the 3 people who drove my car weekend before last on the system, but that's just subjective. I can also say I've hit the 26.x volt thermal derating a couple of times when I was repeating 5-second boosts in 2nd for 2-3 minutes while the ambient was 115 F and the car's sensor showed 120+F, but that the derate cleared up in 20-30 seconds of driving normally. This is WITHOUT the controller's cooling fan (as of yet).

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The statement made earlier was in reference to my conversation with Rob over the summer concerning the various climate conditions the unit will operate. When initially testing the unit on days between 95-100 degrees under heavy conditions, I tripped the 26.x limit a few times prior to the installation of the fan. Since installing the fan, I have tripped the volt meter once or twice. Currently, the weather in the NW has transitioned into the low 70's highs and the probability of tripping the 26.x limiter is not a concern. With that said, for owners like yourself in hot dry climates (AZ and TX specifically) I assumed there would be a higher probability of tripping the voltage limiter under intense driving conditions, i.e AutoX and track days.

After making this post, I had an idea and emailed Rob information on a liquid radiated fan solution to keep the control unit cooler than the current fan circulating hot air. But like always, Rob has been a step ahead and is looking to a new way to liquid cool the control unit with existing resources within the engine bay. If this become a reality it will extend the unit's duration specifically during track days.

[drewbot]

Sub'd for Calgary winter performance...

[Bu-Tang]

another option that could be explored and I has be spoken of is placing the control box out of the engine bay, I will be testing this when I have my bumper removed this winter.

[Thatruth2001]

Originally Posted by Bu-Tang

another option that could be explored and I has be spoken of is placing the control box out of the engine bay, I will be testing this when I have my bumper removed this winter.

Rob shared your idea with me also my only concern was have the unit completely exposed to the climate. Water and electricity is a no no and in the NW it rains buckets! Personally, I think it is the best location to get the coldest air but the idea of getting the unit wet is not appealing.

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by Thatruth2001

Rob shared your idea with me also my only concern was have the unit completely exposure the climate. Water and electricity is a no no and in the NW it rains buckets! Personally, I think it is the best location to get the coldest air be the idea of getting the unit wet is not appealing.

Conformal coating the PCB and possibly potting the unit would address the issue of moisture. Of course, once the unit is potted it becomes non-serviceable. There are IPC standards for repairing boards that have been conformal coated.

Both processes increase cost.

[Robftss]

Originally Posted by Bu-Tang

another option that could be explored and I has be spoken of is placing the control box out of the engine bay, I will be testing this when I have my bumper removed this winter.

LMK when the nose comes off !

Presently splash proof, but can be made water resistant.

[Bu-Tang]

I'm thinking to the left of the filter, tons of room to get the cables through, no direct water contact.

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[Bu-Tang]

Some better pics found,



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