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#1975 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Drives: 2016 FR-S
Location: Denver
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It won't be for another 4 years ....
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#1976 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Drives: 2015 CWP BRZ
Location: Crowley, TX
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OK silly question. How much better are the Koni shocks over stock? I know it helps to be able to dial in the rebound front/rear. But just how much stiffer can you make them than stock?
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#1977 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Drives: '23 BRZ Limited
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Quote:
It's not just about being able to make them stiffer, it's about being able to adjust them to meet the conditions/lot you are on. For instance, if you say went full stiff on the rebound on a super bumpy surface the suspension can end up "jacking down." |
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#1978 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Drives: 2015 CWP BRZ
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Yeah that was pretty much what I was thinking.
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#1979 |
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Senior Citizen
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: Scion FR-S
Location: So. Cal
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Adjusting rebound lets you control how long that corner "sticks". High rebound, the corner will stay down longer.
It may seem stiff because the shock stays compressed longer, so when you hit a bump the shock may not fully extend to "catch" the car and absorb the landing of the bump. (hope that makes sense?) The benefit is that you can change how the car behaves when in transitions and when weight is shifted. For example if you make rebound in the front higher, you can get the nose to stay down longer. This could help in the entry to a turnaround, for example. After you brake and transfer weight to the front, the higher rebound could keep that weight on the front tires longer and allow the front tires to really grip and get the car turned. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to simpleisbest For This Useful Post: | VADERR (12-31-2014) |
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#1980 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Drives: 2015 CWP BRZ
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Is anyone running the 17x7 +42 Buddy Club P1 SF challenge? They are a little cheaper than RPF1's but a little heavier but still lighter than stock?
How do they hold up to autocross? Where's the best place to buy these? Or should I just go with the trusty RPF1's? |
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#1981 |
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Senior Citizen
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: Scion FR-S
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I've used them for about 1.5 seasons. Good wheel. A bit heavier but a good deal cheaper!
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#1982 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Drives: Yes
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I like them because I don't have to run spacers like I do with my Koseis. |
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#1983 |
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Dodging cones
Join Date: Jan 2012
Drives: 2013 BRZ Limited, 93 Z28
Location: Orlando
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What lug nuts are you guys using with Kosei and 3mm spacers? I had some inside spine ones that were a little... iffy... and they eventually cost me a stud. My regular lugs from the DD wheels won't seat well with the Koseis.
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#1984 |
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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I'm running Muteki lugs with 5mm spacers. I ditched the stock studs for ARPs a couple years ago.
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#1985 |
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Completely Lost
Join Date: Nov 2014
Drives: 2015 CBS BRZ Limited
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Ive got mutegi open ended lugs, I went through about 10 studs on my wrx with the stock lugs and switched to arp w/ mutegi before selling it.
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#1986 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: BMW 135i, soon to BRZ
Location: LZ, IL
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Quote:
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#1987 | |
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AutoX Nut
Join Date: May 2013
Drives: 2020 Toyota Supra
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Quote:
I know my days of zero problems are numbered, but I'm very pleased with how the Gorilla lugs and stock studs have held out for me after numerous tire changes and autocrossing this car for 2.5 years. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to jprice130 For This Useful Post: | TrqlessWonder (01-04-2015) |
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#1988 |
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Senior Citizen
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: Scion FR-S
Location: So. Cal
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Stock lug nuts seem to have pretty soft threads. If you are constantly swapping out wheels, the threads seem to go bad pretty easily. If it gets too bad, it can even damage the stud's threads.
Switch to any conical type lug and things will easier. Personally I go for the steel ones, as the aluminum ones tend to stretch and lose torque. Not worth the risk, imo. If you want to get the best of the best, there's the Project Kics R40. I've used them and they are fairly lightweight and awesome!
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