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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!

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Old 12-30-2014, 07:22 PM   #1975
DaWorstPlaya
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It won't be for another 4 years ....
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Old 12-30-2014, 10:06 PM   #1976
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OK silly question. How much better are the Koni shocks over stock? I know it helps to be able to dial in the rebound front/rear. But just how much stiffer can you make them than stock?
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Old 12-31-2014, 09:06 AM   #1977
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OK silly question. How much better are the Koni shocks over stock? I know it helps to be able to dial in the rebound front/rear. But just how much stiffer can you make them than stock?


It's not just about being able to make them stiffer, it's about being able to adjust them to meet the conditions/lot you are on.




For instance, if you say went full stiff on the rebound on a super bumpy surface the suspension can end up "jacking down."
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Old 12-31-2014, 10:00 AM   #1978
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Yeah that was pretty much what I was thinking.
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Old 12-31-2014, 03:20 PM   #1979
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Adjusting rebound lets you control how long that corner "sticks". High rebound, the corner will stay down longer.

It may seem stiff because the shock stays compressed longer, so when you hit a bump the shock may not fully extend to "catch" the car and absorb the landing of the bump. (hope that makes sense?)

The benefit is that you can change how the car behaves when in transitions and when weight is shifted. For example if you make rebound in the front higher, you can get the nose to stay down longer. This could help in the entry to a turnaround, for example. After you brake and transfer weight to the front, the higher rebound could keep that weight on the front tires longer and allow the front tires to really grip and get the car turned.
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Old 01-01-2015, 02:59 PM   #1980
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Is anyone running the 17x7 +42 Buddy Club P1 SF challenge? They are a little cheaper than RPF1's but a little heavier but still lighter than stock?

How do they hold up to autocross? Where's the best place to buy these?

Or should I just go with the trusty RPF1's?
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Old 01-02-2015, 01:07 AM   #1981
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Is anyone running the 17x7 +42 Buddy Club P1 SF challenge? They are a little cheaper than RPF1's but a little heavier but still lighter than stock?

How do they hold up to autocross? Where's the best place to buy these?

Or should I just go with the trusty RPF1's?
I've used them for about 1.5 seasons. Good wheel. A bit heavier but a good deal cheaper!
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Old 01-02-2015, 09:08 AM   #1982
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Originally Posted by bslate3 View Post
Is anyone running the 17x7 +42 Buddy Club P1 SF challenge? They are a little cheaper than RPF1's but a little heavier but still lighter than stock?

How do they hold up to autocross? Where's the best place to buy these?

Or should I just go with the trusty RPF1's?
Yes, I have a set too. No clue where to buy them new because I got them used, but I think they look cool. I can't remember exact weight, but I think they're 17-18 lbs.

I like them because I don't have to run spacers like I do with my Koseis.
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Old 01-02-2015, 12:13 PM   #1983
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What lug nuts are you guys using with Kosei and 3mm spacers? I had some inside spine ones that were a little... iffy... and they eventually cost me a stud. My regular lugs from the DD wheels won't seat well with the Koseis.
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If you guys spot any riced frs/brz post them here just for laughs no hating please.
Isn't there already a thread like this? It's called aggressive wheels or summat...
C Street Build/Progress Questions about C Street Autocrossing?
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:31 PM   #1984
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What lug nuts are you guys using with Kosei and 3mm spacers? I had some inside spine ones that were a little... iffy... and they eventually cost me a stud. My regular lugs from the DD wheels won't seat well with the Koseis.
I'm running Muteki lugs with 5mm spacers. I ditched the stock studs for ARPs a couple years ago.
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:33 PM   #1985
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Ive got mutegi open ended lugs, I went through about 10 studs on my wrx with the stock lugs and switched to arp w/ mutegi before selling it.
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:53 PM   #1986
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I usually like to lurk and not post but thought I would step in before rumors got started.

I'm from Mark's region so I know why. It had nothing to do with intoxication. Let's just say he pissed off the wrong guys. He was on probation for some unsportsmanlike conduct due to conflicts with other RM members. But the straw that broke the proverbial camel's back was an incident at the local RM Solo auto-x where his car moved on grid while the jr. karts were running. The happened right after the event where the girl jr. karter died. It started a shit storm and calls were made.

I like the guy, he's always been helpful and pleasant with me but some in the region didn't feel the same way.
Hence my "Purple Monkey Dishwasher" caveat.
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Old 01-02-2015, 03:02 PM   #1987
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Originally Posted by Kido1986 View Post
What lug nuts are you guys using with Kosei and 3mm spacers? I had some inside spine ones that were a little... iffy... and they eventually cost me a stud. My regular lugs from the DD wheels won't seat well with the Koseis.
When I had those wheels and spacers, I used Gorilla spline drive lugs (closed end) and never had any issues (stock studs too). This was back when I ran C-Stock with r-comps and was changing my tires at every event. I still use those same Gorilla lugs with my 17x9 Rota Titans and I still haven't had any problems (knocks on wood).

I know my days of zero problems are numbered, but I'm very pleased with how the Gorilla lugs and stock studs have held out for me after numerous tire changes and autocrossing this car for 2.5 years.
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Old 01-02-2015, 03:36 PM   #1988
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Stock lug nuts seem to have pretty soft threads. If you are constantly swapping out wheels, the threads seem to go bad pretty easily. If it gets too bad, it can even damage the stud's threads.

Switch to any conical type lug and things will easier.

Personally I go for the steel ones, as the aluminum ones tend to stretch and lose torque. Not worth the risk, imo.

If you want to get the best of the best, there's the Project Kics R40. I've used them and they are fairly lightweight and awesome!
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