Time to build a motor, what options have others found?

[AZFA20]

That's awesome. It looks as though I am going to go with a brand new LS3 at this point unless I can track down a 6.0 LS2 that's worth my while. Is WGP going to go with a standard T-56 or have you guys decided on any of the other variants, i.e. Magnum T-56, TR-6060, Magnum XL T-56?

Also are you doing the "complete" configuration with A/C, electric P/S, OEM cluster functionality, OEM emissions equipment functionality?

[C130NAV]

I went LS2 with the T-56 Termac. Full config as a matter of fact they just messaged me and I forgot to put two of my a/c lines in the car so I have to send them up to them so they can connect all the a/c stuff. From what I understand it will be running 2 ecus to maintain functionality one for engine the other for everything else OEM. I thought about waiting and getting a crate motor with built internals and everything but it would have piled on another 4 grand I was not ready to pay for... yet lol

[AZFA20]

Nice! Can't wait to see it. This total upfront cost is certainly not for the faint of heart but truthfully I have that much into forced induction anyway. Need to start selling it all.

[Cross]

Still going back and forth, found a 11k mile motor for the right price.

I also found that the damage to my motor is not extensive so rebuilding would not be an issue... but if I do how far should I go. Trying to find some more concrete numbers on things. Everything seem's buried in threads.

I swear the general consensuses was the factory block was good to up to 500. Yet it seems the locals have been having issue above 400.

I wanted the 350-400 range and felt on E85 should be completely safe. Now I did have a cam issue but I am of course questioning now just how much can the stock motor really take and is it worth it to go after a built block with my power goals?
Perhaps I should only do specific parts like Head Studs and... what's the bigger weak point? Another question I really have not found an answer too.

At some point I hope to find my answers because I want to get started this week on a direction, another stock and accept it was a fluke or some format of a built motor...

[C130NAV]

@Cross
The cam issue is a major determiner at least it was with me. I didn't want to deal with all the issues people have been having so I made the jump. I usually like to stay pure but I wanted power with reliability which unfortunately Toyota and Subaru did not give us this time.

[Cross]

I came to the same conclusion and WGP got back to me I ordered the conversion harness, Sims my header and everything else is up for sale. It's LSX or nothing now.
And to be honest I like this car just as much as my built Vette, I miss driving it quite often.

[C130NAV]

Just talked to doug and decided to get a cam put in while the had the LS apart cleaning it up :-)

[boarder1995]

I need to stay away from this thread. It could get expensive for me! Thanks for the PM info C130NAV. Very helpful. With the WGP setup and 2 ECU's, does the car's stability/traction control stay in functioning order? It'd be nice to have a working traction control system so for casual daily driving by others it's not a deathtrap.

[C130NAV]

Idk but its a question ill ask. I assume it does but im sure it will have to work overtime lol with 450 horse. Its also getting expensive for me but I guess I am saving money by doing it while they have the engine broke open

[Cross]

A cam is never a bad idea, I did the full heads cam setup although it's a small cam until I trust the diff. Jumping up in torque this much I want to see just how the axles and diff take it.

As for having traction control, if I don't need it in my 408 stroker Corvette then I doubt it's going to be a big issue here. Yes it's nice to think of but most of the time it causes more problems that it solves.

[EZWood]

I don't know if you saw, but I spun a rod bearing on a stock motor, no fi.

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by EZWood

I don't know if you saw, but I spun a rod bearing on a stock motor, no fi.

Did you determine the cause?

[EZWood]

Originally Posted by sw20kosh

Did you determine the cause?

Tech at the dealer said it looked like it was raced. The only thing I'm easy on is the eyes, but I take care of my stuff. There was an incident maybe seven thousand miles ago where the motor was over-revved that could be the source of the failure, which either says a lot or little for the strength of the motor that it took so long for there to be reprocussions, or that it didn't see an immediate effect. Either way I'm glad I haven't gone too crazy with mods right away or I may have been in the same boat as cross and had a big decision on my hands as to what route I should take.

[Sellout]

Originally Posted by EZWood

Tech at the dealer said it looked like it was raced. The only thing I'm easy on is the eyes, but I take care of my stuff. There was an incident maybe seven thousand miles ago where the motor was over-revved that could be the source of the failure, which either says a lot or little for the strength of the motor that it took so long for there to be reprocussions, or that it didn't see an immediate effect. Either way I'm glad I haven't gone too crazy with mods right away or I may have been in the same boat as cross and had a big decision on my hands as to what route I should take.

"It was raced" doesn't mean much beyond, "I don't want to do this as a warranty repair"

The over rev could easily be the culprit. How bad was it? I've seen motors let go 10k miles after a money shift.