Replacing Struts and Installing Coil Springs

[Dustin2JZ]

Originally Posted by switchlanez

Thanks for this DIY, really came in handy along with the complete service manual posted in another topic. Some suggestions...

After removing the 2 bolts on the lower control arm, my friend and I could barely budge the the lower control arms to pull out/position in the strut. Took me 2 hours to wrestle the strut out then maneuver it back in on my own. Then 1 hour for the other side with help from a friend. That time was pure wrestling/elbow grease and excludes any bolting/unbolting time. Probably would've been world's easier removing all 4 bolts on the LCA instead of the 2 you suggest.

If you remove the sway bar bolt it is much easier, removing the far inside bolt of the LCA may alter alignment. Also with that bolt still in make it much easier to use a jack and push the lca buck up to the Hub.

[switchlanez]

Originally Posted by Dustin2JZ

If you remove the sway bar bolt it is much easier, removing the far inside bolt of the LCA may alter alignment. Also with that bolt still in make it much easier to use a jack and push the lca buck up to the Hub.

Ok, well I removed every bolt along the LCA from the knuckle on back up to that last far inside bolt (which I just loosened), retorqued everything back to spec, then got an alignment. But next time I'll try loosening the sway bar bolt (unless you're referring to the endlink bolt on the LCA which I did loosen?).

[zc06_kisstherain]

great write up! everything looks straight forward except being careful on compressing/decompressing spring

[Fizz]

Hey guys, I was installing eibach springs on a friend's 86 today, and was kinda in a rush and I think I might have accidentally installed the front bump stops upside down? I did it with the words (which are embossed on the bump stops) right way up. So whats the correct orientation for the bump stops?

What kind of damage would happen if I left it this way?

[BrunoM]

Hi
I have just installed my sportline springs yesterday and I have just noticed that the rear passenger is a little lower than the rear driver side.
Does anyone already had this issue? I checked twice all the installation and I find nothing wrong.
Need some advice from you

[Fizz]

Originally Posted by Amadeus

Does it matter if the little tab on top is front or back? I checked the manual and there is no reference to the tab.

Sorry for the old post revival guys, but I just wanted to inform anyone attempting this DIY that the tab (for rear shock) faces the rear...not the front of the car. I've double checked this on another stock 86 just to be sure.

You can easily check this prior to removing your rear shocks by looking closely through the hole where you'd insert the socket to remove top nut.

[switchlanez]

Here's my method to torque the top nut to the 41 ft-lb spec. Used a crow's foot socket on my torque wrench (easiest to position at 90 degrees according to http://www.motorcraftservice.com/ren...la_main_en.asp) which torqued the pass-through socket (pass-through extension as pictured may be needed for rear), and extra long hex bit to hold the rod. All tools were *in stock* at Harbor Freight for reasonably cheap.



Tagging @DarrenDriven in case this might be useful for others to see in the OP.

[atledreier]

I'm doing this process in the weekend, and for us that use metrics, Nm torques would be awesome.

[atledreier]

I think #27 should be altered with a warning NOT to use an impact gun on the top nut. The guide specifically suggest using one, but threads around here indicate that this may likely blow your damper seals, as I did. I didn't read through this thread before doing the install, but followed the guide.

[flashburn]

Big tip for getting off the ABS connectors, the one in this picture can be removed from the plastic, by pushing in the big tab with a screwdriver (not where the arrow is pointing, but on the opposite side), and it will just release the wire. Makes removal WAY easier. I didn't have any issues with removing the lower connector with a flat-tip screw driver.

[Khyron686]

Originally Posted by switchlanez

Here's my method to torque the top nut to the 41 ft-lb spec. Used a crow's foot socket on my torque wrench (easiest to position at 90 degrees according to http://www.motorcraftservice.com/ren...la_main_en.asp) which torqued the pass-through socket (pass-through extension as pictured may be needed for rear), and extra long hex bit to hold the rod. All tools were *in stock* at Harbor Freight for reasonably cheap.



Tagging @DarrenDriven in case this might be useful for others to see in the OP.

Did you use the 17mm or 14mm socket on the bottom (I'm going shopping before I start this little project). Then I assume you bought whatever crows foot that fit the socket.

[switchlanez]

Originally Posted by Khyron686

Did you use the 17mm or 14mm socket on the bottom (I'm going shopping before I start this little project). Then I assume you bought whatever crows foot that fit the socket.

I used whatever sockets fit the front strut top nut and rear strut top nut. The socket on the bottom is attached to a 3/8" drive extension so any socket (14mm or 17mm) w/ 3/8" drive will fit. I had a set of crow feet and the 19mm crow foot happened to fit the top of the extension so I used it. All these tools were available at Harbor Freight.

[phatroksek]

I'm about to do a Hotchkis spring installation and in their instructions they talk about resetting preload for the control arms. I tried searching on the DIY forum and haven't found anyone talk about this adjustment. I'm guessing this is why OP isn't hitting the advertised 1" drop.
Here's Hotchkis' installation PDF and you can find this on page 30.
https://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_f...ns5218file.pdf

can anyone elaborate on this? maybe as far as why people are not resetting the preload? also any alternative way to do this outside of how Hotchkis is prescribing? I don't have an alignment rack or 4 floor ramps to drive the car onto evenly.

thanks all!

[80what]

so after doing my eibach sportline install, everytime i would drive and turn the wheel to the right it would make a horrible grinding/squeaking noise.

what would cause this to happen after installation?
the car is only a year old.