Questions and Discussion on Vortech Supercharging Systems

[Marcoscrdo]

Originally Posted by Darryljr11

Where'd you come from??? lol Are thinking about getting a SC kit?

Yeah remember? But wont happen for a really long time

[Darryljr11]

Oh right lol. Im hoping to install mine by the end of july.

[Brian@Vortech]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Here are my questions for owners:

1. What problems or issues have you had post install?
2. Did you make any mistakes or should you have done anything different?
3. How do you feel about the performance, anything strange in terms of noises sounds you hear at low RPM and higher RPM?
4. Where do you mount or hide the stainless steel drain line? Nothing in manual about it.

General Questions:

1. Is there a guide to changing SC oil?
2. What are problems or signs of problems to be looking out for?
3. Extra belts is it Gates Model: K060975? What about using Gates Green Stripe Micro-V Belt
4. Manual mentions you can't drive in temps below 25 degrees is that true, never heard that you cant drive it in winter before?

1. What problems or issues have you had post install? None here in house. Might be a good idea to check clearances after the first post-install drive, and again a day or two after initial install, but that would hold true with any kit. Other than that, you should be good to go.

2. Did you make any mistakes or should you have done anything different? What others have said about the drill portion of the intercooler install comes to mind. You'll need a powerful drill and good bits, or it can be a difficult task indeed.

3. How do you feel about the performance, anything strange in terms of noises sounds you hear at low RPM and higher RPM? Very linear, and quite exhilarating performance. The compressor can be heard at idle to some extent, and (of course) the bypass valve can be heard between shifts.

4. Where do you mount or hide the stainless steel drain line? Nothing in manual about it. Can either be left coiled and zip tied, or can be zip tied off to framerail or any other non-obstructive location.

General Questions:

1. Is there a guide to changing SC oil? This:

Originally Posted by draggin_az

Unscrew dip stick and pull out slightly, undo nut at the end of drain hose, place water bottle as far down into the engine bay as possible, place drain hose into bottle, and allow to drain. Place nut back on hose, zip tie off somewhere, according to Jamie (tech at Vortech) fill until the oil is in the middle of the "cross grid" on dip stick, screw dip stick back in, and enjoy.

2. What are problems or signs of problems to be looking out for? If oil can be seen coming out through the vent plug, the unit may be overfilled. If this is the case, check the oil level to ensure proper oil level on dipstick.

3. Extra belts is it Gates Model: K060975? What about using Gates Green Stripe Micro-V Belt As long as the belt is a good quality belt in the correct length and size, any belt of your preference may be used.

4. Manual mentions you can't drive in temps below 25 degrees is that true, never heard that you cant drive it in winter before? It is a mechanical piece cooled by oil, just like any other similar device. Viscosity in temperature extremes would be a concern with any and all engine components, not just a Supercharger. We place the warning on the Supercharger because that is the part that we manufacture. Similarly to how steps must be taken in any turbo application to prevent the oil from getting too hot, leading to oil coking issues, steps must be taken to avoid the Supercharger oil from being too cold at the instant of initial startup. However, the warning relates only to initial startup in below 25 degree weather. Once the vehicle has been brought up to normal operating temperatures, everything will operate exactly as any other day. The same tolerances inside the unit that allow it to be quiet and super efficient, also have to be tight in order to be quiet and super efficient. Before initial startup (if the vehicle has been sitting for hours) in under 25 degree conditions, a block heater, heating blanket, or even a shop light on under the hood for enough time to raise the underhood temp above freezing is sufficient. Once the vehicle is at normal operating temperature, no other steps are required.

[Darryljr11]

Is there enough space in front of the vortech intercooler for a air cooler?

[Foobar]

Noticed my boost not getting past 4.8 PSI. Checked for leaks and the coupler on the intercooler output side was partially popped off. I guess I didn't tighten it properly. Will work on it tonight or tomorrow.

Edit: All better now. Getting pushed back into my seat again, woot!

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

[pheoxs]

Uh oh, I was planning on running this in my year round frs (typically down to negative 40C/ negative 40F during winter ) hmm... this could be interesting...

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by pheoxs

Uh oh, I was planning on running this in my year round frs (typically down to negative 40C/ negative 40F during winter ) hmm... this could be interesting...

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

Yeah there is certainly some issues with the kit that you have to ask the right questions to get answers.

[djdnz]

Originally Posted by pheoxs

Uh oh, I was planning on running this in my year round frs (typically down to negative 40C/ negative 40F during winter ) hmm... this could be interesting...

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

It's not anywhere as cold here in Ontario as it is for you in Edmonton, but I am definitely going to be below -4C for most of the winter. Block heater is an option when I'm at home, but not parked at work, it would be annoying to have to use it when the car wouldn't need it otherwise though.

[pheoxs]

I'll take it to pm and post after if we can figure something out. I don't understand certain things about this temperature issue... don't want to clutter the thread with misinformation

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

[DJCarbine]

For anyone else looking to replace the plastic bypass valve with something a little more robust/louder, I found a bolt in replcement.

http://www.turbosmartusa.com/product...-universal-fit
You want the 25mm version.



It is a dual port, so you can retain the K&N filter on the dump port. Both ports are the same 1" as the plastic bosch unit. It simply replaces the bosch unit retaining the factory hose/K&N filter.

For those who will argue that this may suck in un-filtered air through the "horn" port, the supercharger produces more airflow than the engine can ingest even at idle. Also, this valve only fully opens to dump air out of the "noisy" horn at high intake manifold vacuum/positive pressure in the charge pipe. Otherwise it only vents to the dump port with your K&N filter.

This results in a valve that operates pretty much exactly like the included plastic bosch valve, however at moderate/high boost it produces a nice deep "whoosh" sound like a traditional BOV.

You can also block off the "horn" with the included blocking plate, then it will work exactly like the plastic bypass valve without any noise.

Unnecessary? Probably.
But it is fun, and I prefer aluminum over plastic.

Perhaps Vortech can chime in if this is a bad idea, but I'm familiar with boost and this seems solid in operating theory with no chance of unfiltered air entering the system(My main concern).

[draggin_az]

Originally Posted by DJCarbine

For anyone else looking to replace the plastic bypass valve with something a little more robust/louder, I found a bolt in replcement.

http://www.turbosmartusa.com/product...-universal-fit
You want the 25mm version.



It is a dual port, so you can retain the K&N filter on the dump port. Both ports are the same 1" as the plastic bosch unit. It simply replaces the bosch unit retaining the factory hose/K&N filter.

For those who will argue that this may suck in un-filtered air through the "horn" port, the supercharger produces more airflow than the engine can ingest even at idle. Also, this valve only fully opens to dump air out of the "noisy" horn at high intake manifold vacuum/positive pressure in the charge pipe. Otherwise it only vents to the dump port with your K&N filter.

This results in a valve that operates pretty much exactly like the included plastic bosch valve, however at moderate/high boost it produces a nice deep "whoosh" sound like a traditional BOV.

You can also block off the "horn" with the included blocking plate, then it will work exactly like the plastic bypass valve without any noise.

Unnecessary? Probably.
But it is fun, and I prefer aluminum over plastic.

Perhaps Vortech can chime in if this is a bad idea, but I'm familiar with boost and this seems solid in operating theory with no chance of unfiltered air entering the system(My main concern).

$200!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

with all due respect, fuck that

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by draggin_az

$200!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

with all due respect, fuck that

Good BOV's typically run 200-250. From DJCarbine's perspective, he just spent around 5K on a kit, what are 200 more to make it sound like he wants?

[draggin_az]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Good BOV's typically run 200-250. From DJCarbine's perspective, he just spent around 5K on a kit, what are 200 more to make it sound like he wants?

i guess but $200 just to change the way it sounds when you let off the gas or push in the clutch......i'll pass

[JordanInnovations]

The last kits we've gotten have all had the new aluminum BOV's. I'll see if I have a pic, they're really nice - machined look, black finish, looks a lot like that Turbosmart one but with no branding on it. Certainly no need to buy a replacement.