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#43 |
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Mr. Cranky Pants
Join Date: Apr 2013
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#44 |
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Hold my beer n watch this
Join Date: Nov 2012
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Uhh the car is 200/160whp on most dynos it seems. That's a 20% loss. 40 crank hp with
20% loss is 32 whp. I wouldn't say that's nowhere near 30whp... Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
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Nolan
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#45 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
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I'm totally satisfied with my >$2500 bolt-on investments for ~30whp (with E85).. it's a very noticeable improvement above 3000 RPM to redline too.. perfect for my 90-mile daily commute, esp. since I easily get better hwy MPGs on 93 octane. Those who say bolt-ons won't do anything for this car obviously haven't tried it.
As far as intakes are concerned, I believe the metal CAI tube does make a difference after you've driven for a while. Once the stock plastic tube heats up, it's NEVER going to cool down again for a long time. A metal CAI will cool down within seconds once you get going. |
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#46 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: Pavement MT GR86
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40hp crank with our current losses would be about 33WHP so i'd say close....197 hp rated 165hp dyno'd average.....
185-195 whp with those mods. a few over 200 w/ E-85
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Last edited by StormTrooper; 05-12-2013 at 03:40 PM. Reason: spelling |
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#47 | |
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Mr. Cranky Pants
Join Date: Apr 2013
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Quote:
Uh huh. the old 20% argument, which has NEVER been proven. The thought that an addition of 20% of the engine's total horsepower can cause the same exact drivetrain to soak up an additional 8 horsepower is senseless. Take that 20% loss and calculate it with the addition of a vortech kit. You don't come out to the 250ish whp number that they've been proven to make. Or take FBM's 604whp. Do you honestly believe that engine is making 755 horsepower? Last edited by Sellout; 05-12-2013 at 04:28 PM. |
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#48 |
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Just drive it
Join Date: Mar 2013
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I didn't mind spending $260 on my intake. That's all.
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#49 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
300hp v6 camaro gets 240ish whp....12-20% is pretty much standard. Ours is closer to 18%.
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#50 |
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Senior Member
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So you're saying that the drivetrain only absorbs a set amount of HP to turn? How much do you think it would take to turn the entire drivetrain of one of our cars? Assuming a manual transmission?
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#51 |
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Senior Member
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It's not a set number it's friction and rotational mass....
All cars follow the laws of physics. It's not that it takes 40hp to move the car it's the losses incurred.
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#52 |
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Senior Member
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Sorry, I was directing my question to Sellout.
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#53 | ||
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Mr. Cranky Pants
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Quote:
A flat 18 or 20% loss just doesn't make sense. It makes less and less sense as the engine makes more and more HP. |
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#54 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
yes different engines transmissions and drive lines have different losses which would be affected differently when you add hp. does that mean you still can't simply it down to a %loss....my thoughts are no a flat % is close enough for estimation which is what we are doing.
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#55 | |
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Mr. Cranky Pants
Join Date: Apr 2013
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Quote:
I never mentioned different engines and different drivetrains. I said the same engine and drivetrain soaking up more power linearly as you increase power doesn't work. The math just doesn't add up. That dog don't hunt. As you go higher in engine power, the numbers get more absurd. If you take the 20% that someone mentioned earlier, Full Blown has to be making 755hp to get to 604 at the rear. The engine is making a whole lot more power for sure, but a transmission that hasn't changed can't suddenly soak up 70% of the car's original horsepower number just because the engine is making more. More power will be turned into heat as it's lost through friction for sure, but you're talking about 112 kilowatts of lost power. It isn't a flat horsepower number, but it's also not a flat percentage. With the way the numbers get more and more absurd as the horsepower increases, it's probably a whole lot closer to a flat horsepower number than anyone wants to admit. Which would make an increase of 40 crank HP come out to a whole lot closer to 40 rwhp than to 30 rwhp. |
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#56 | |
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Theoretically, think of it this way, I could probably put a bar on the end of the crank and turn the motor over when the car is in gear on the chassis rollers. I may be able to go from 0 to 1 RPM if I'm lucky. The drivetrain and the rollers are providing resistance, but I can apply enough force to make it turn. Now, it I try to turn it'd rom 0 up to 6000 RPM the resistance suddenly gets a lot harder, and I have to expend a lot more energy to get it to 6000 RPM. Everything drivetrain wise is the same, but the amount of power needed over the same amount of time has increased because I have to overcome the inertia to get the motor to a higher RPM. Every drivetrain is efficient at a different rate, but all things being the same the rate remain constant.
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