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Old 05-07-2013, 12:44 AM   #57
Xdragonxb0i
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Did you guys really just revived a 8month old thread?
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:48 AM   #58
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lol looks like it.....also what is this 10k-15k mile BS. unless you live near the water or dust doesn't exist for you i'd clean mine every 3 months or less.

also as far as oiling issues just don't over oil and clean your maf every time. pretty easy.
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:23 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZetaPerformance View Post
The Perrin filter are made out of foam, as it will slowly disintegrate after time and it goes into your intake system.

As long as it's cleaned with a foam filter cleaner, you won't have any problems.

We've been using foam filters for the last 10 years and they work great! But cleaning them with K&N cleaner will destroy them pretty quickly.
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:51 PM   #60
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Quote:
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I like my K&N drop in for the extra sound. Any extra HP is just gravy on top.
What extra sound ?? are yours drop in or the typhoon intake ?
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:55 PM   #61
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k&n drop in made my mpg increase quite a bit. Also helped throttle response.

now i have afe takeda dry intake, and my mpg has gone way down but the powerband feels much smoother especially when shifting at high rpm. Also the mpg loss may be due to driving habits due to the fun noise it makes.
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:07 PM   #62
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k&n drop in made my mpg increase quite a bit. Also helped throttle response.
Really? Can you put any figures to your mpg? Seems unlikely that a change of filter would give a noticeable change...
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:15 PM   #63
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Really? Can you put any figures to your mpg? Seems unlikely that a change of filter would give a noticeable change...
The first 1k miles on my car (stock) i averaged about 26mpg. After K&N drop in i reset and drove another 1000 miles, averaged like 27.8. Then i got my afe takeda and after almost 4k miles on it, im down to 26.5. note, i did not reset after changing from k&n to takeda. There is definitely a drop, but like i said, it may be due to my tendency to like to rev it more now.
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:30 PM   #64
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Ha, fair enough.

Does the MAF sensor need to be reset when changing the air filter?
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:36 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by PumaUK7 View Post
Ha, fair enough.

Does the MAF sensor need to be reset when changing the air filter?
Not sure how you'd reset it. I've found that with the K&N, after driving it for a while cleaning the MAF helps. I use CRC MAF cleaner. Noticed a lot smoother idle, and a little more power after cleaning it.

Seems like a lot of K&N's come from the factory over-oiled which can get on the MAF sensor and cause some inconsistent readings.
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:37 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by PumaUK7 View Post
Ha, fair enough.

Does the MAF sensor need to be reset when changing the air filter?
It's not necessary, as in it will run fine either way, but best practice is to remove the negative terminal on the battery for a minute to allow the ecu to reset.
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:56 PM   #67
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So are dry filters generally considered "better" than oiled ones like the K&N?
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:19 PM   #68
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So are dry filters generally considered "better" than oiled ones like the K&N?
Not necessarily. It's all a matter of preference. They'll all likely net similar gains (within 1-2 hp of each other, if we're just talking filters.)
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:20 AM   #69
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So are dry filters generally considered "better" than oiled ones like the K&N?
Only as some people think that the oil will collect on the MAF and throw readings. I checked my MAF yesterday after 6 months of using my K&N and not a sign of oil on it
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:19 AM   #70
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Only as some people think that the oil will collect on the MAF and throw readings. I checked my MAF yesterday after 6 months of using my K&N and not a sign of oil on it
So what is the deal with the MAF sensor then? Can I just swap out the filter and away I go, or should I disconnect the battery to reset the ECU, or anything else?
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